Housing:

Vivarium MODX36 for a youngster increasing with the MODX extensions as it grows.

Lighting

Lights are for viewing only so an Arcadia viv dry Control Gear C5 combined with an Arcadia freshwater Tube 42 inch 36 Watt will be fine.

Heating

Pt-2048 Ceramic Heat Emitter 250Watt, combined with Exo Terra Glow Light 25cm with safety guard and a Pulse Proportional thermostat.
Or 500w Microclimate AHS.
Use two PT-2465 Exo-Terra Dial Thermometer or PT-2472 Digital Thermometer to monitor the basking and ambient temperatures.

Substrate

Aspen or beach chippings are recommended.

Décor

Use a PT-2851 Reptile hide/Cave small for youngsters. PT-2845 or PT-2847 for adults as they get bigger something else will have to be used. You will need a water bowl we would suggest using the Pool Wood Effect-Giant until the boa outgrows it then something like a garden bird bath or washing up bowl will be required. Finally use a selection of artificial vines and plants, PT-3000-3052 these are just for decoration and make the vivarium look more natural. We would recommend at least 2 large vines and a selection of 3-4 + plants and some stout branches as they like to climb…

Care of the Cuban Boa (Epicrates angulifer)

Common Name: Cuban Boa

Scientific Name: Epicrates angulifer

Description: The Cuban Boa is the largest of the West Indian Boas of the genus Epicrates reaching lengths of over 12´.

Range: The Island of Cuba

Habitat: They are found virtually in all types of habitat from xeric areas to tropical jungle. They are very abundant in farming areas and Cuban Farmers call them “Maja”.

Care: Their husbandry is very similar to Boa Constrictors. A temperature gradient from 80ºF down to around 72ºF.

Though Cuban Boas can take temps down in the low 50´s with no problem as long as daytime temps rise to around 80º F

Even though the Cuban Boa is the largest of the West Indian Boas it is generally arboreal, and often found in the branches of trees.

They readily take birds, lizards, rodents and bats. They accumulate around the entrance of caves and catch the bats as they emerge at dusk. The primary food item in Cuba is an arboreal rodent called a Hutia but they eat a great variety of prey including an occasional Iguana [Cyclura nubila].

A vivarium of 72″x30″18″ is adequate for an adult with plenty of stout branches

The Cuban Boa can be very aggressive. I had a male that never calmed down and was always nasty. They have a very powerful musk as well and it can be difficult to clean off; the smell is very strong and can last for a long time. The female that I had was the complete opposite. Use cat litter as this helps to absorb the musk

This is a beautiful snake but only for experienced keepers.

Breeding: They breed in the spring [March through to May], the young are born in Aug to Oct. Offspring can measure up to 3´ in length and only have 4-6 young.

Vivarium,  Viv-Exotic 36 inch Black VX36. There are other colours to choose from.

Lighting is for viewing so a PT-2110 Sun Glo Neodymium Lamp A19/60Watt. Spot lamp Guard 210 x 110 x110mm. The bulb needs a ceramic lamp holder such as the Komodo Ceramic Lamp Fixture.

Heating eating Use an Algarde Heat Mat 11 x 17 inch or medium to large Exo Terra Heat Wave Rock. Use a Komodo Habitat Thermostat for the heat mat. to ensure that the heat mat does not overheat. this should be set at 75 deg F during the night time and during the day when the lights are on the temp should be 80-85 deg F.

Substrate For baby snakes we recommend kitchen paper, wallpaper backing paper or newspaper for the first six months. This is due to the fact that they can get compaction of the gut by ingesting substrates, like Aspen, corn cob, and beach chippings etc. After the Corn Snake has reached six months the best substrates are Aspen or beach chippings.

Décor Water dish Choose a PT-2803 Exo Terra Water Dish Large, for adults and PT-2801 Exo Terra Water Dish small, for hatchlings. The water bowl should be kept at the cool end to avoid excessive humidity and the water changed daily as they often defecate in their water. Hides/Caves, use a PT-2845 for hatchlings and a PT-2847 for adults. Branches (Bog wood etc.), Branches need to be strong and sturdy. Fruit tree branches are good but not cherry as it is poisonous as are conifer branches. Scrub them clean with hot soapy water, rinse and allow to dry. Bog wood and drift wood are good additions Along with PT-3080-3082 vines. Artificial plants. PT-3000-3052 these are just for decoration and to give the vivarium a more natural look so two or three plants should give the desired effect. You will need two thermometers PT-2465 place one at each end to show the cool temperature and hot end temperatures to indicate that there is a heat gradient.

CARE

Corn Snakes are found throughout the south-eastern and central United States. Their docile nature, reluctance to bite, moderate adult size (1.2—1.8 meters or 4–6 ft), attractive pattern, and comparatively simple care make them excellent and popular pet snakes. In the wild, they usually live around 10-15 years, but may live as long as 23 years in captivity. When choosing your first snake you will have to decide as to whether you would like to start with a hatchling or a yearling. Breeders normally sell on hatchling snakes as soon as they have shed their skin and taken their first food. This can be anything from 3 to 10 days, so hatchlings can be very young.

Housing: A 36″ x 15″ x 15″ vivarium should be big enough to house up 1 corn snake. As a general rule you should not keep more than one snake in a vivarium as most snakes can be cannibalistic, and should never be fed together, you could end up with one larger snake. Corns are active early morning late evening and mostly nocturnal so do not need special lighting A heat gradient from 70–75 °F (21–24 °C) on one end of the vivarium to 80–85 °F (26–29 °C) on the other is thought optimal to allow the snake to regulate its body temperature by moving from one part of the vivarium to the other, as necessary. Insufficient heat available in an enclosure at any point may lead to poor digestion, respiratory infections, and death, while excessive heat which the animal cannot escape, can cause neurological damage. You will need to be able to regulate the heat by using a dimmer thermostat. A thermometer placed inside the tank is essential to make sure the temperature is maintained. Corns like to hide up during the day so make sure that you put enough dark hides cave areas in the vivarium. Use rocks, logs, artificial caves, hides and artificial plants, these are ideal. Make sure to put a rock or stone underneath the basking area as the heat will be absorbed by the stone and will make a nice warm place for the snake when it is active during the night. Make sure to keep a fresh supply of water in a sturdy drinking bowl for the snake. You might find that some snakes use the water to defecate in so it is advisable to change it on a daily basis. Provide several areas for the snake to climb on, Branches or vines.

Feeding: It is advisable to feed snakes mice that have been frozen and thawed. Never feed live rodents to your snake as it is illegal hear in the UK and classed as cruelty. If substrates such as aspen or Beech chips are used, the snake should be fed in a separate empty container, to prevent ingestion of chunks of substrate, which may lead to internal injury. Snakes do not require live prey (which may injure the snake, and which is considered animal cruelty in the UK) and many corn snakes feed readily on pre-killed rodents which can be purchased as frozen from specialist pet shops, then completely thawed in warm water, prior to feeding. The food is not required to be warm (above room temperature) for the snake to eat it, but it must be thawed, and usually dry. Hatchlings should have a pinkie (day old mice) about every 5 days. As the snake grows older you should increase the size of the mouse and extend the feeding period so that eventually as an adult they will be feeding weekly. Corn snakes can be overfed. To judge the size of the mouse as a general rule, a snake can eat a mouse/rat that is twice as wide as the snakes widest part of its body. Whilst young, corn snakes shed their skin quite often. You will notice that they will be due to shed by the blue cast over their eyes and the skin becomes duller and darker; once this has cleared they will shed within a few days. You may also find that they will go off their food before a shed as well. Once they have completed their shedding they will return to eating properly.

General Information: After many generations of selective breeding, domesticated Corn Snakes are found in a wide variety of different colours and patterns. These result from recombining the dominant and recessive genes that code for proteins involved in chromatophore development, maintenance, or function. New variations, or morphs, become available every year as breeders gain a better understanding of the genetics involved.

Housing:

Vivarium MODX36 for a youngster increasing with the MODX extensions as it grows.

Lighting

Lights are for viewing only so an Arcadia vivarium dry Control Gear C5 combined with an Arcadia freshwater Tube 42 inch 36 Watt will be fine.

Heating

Use Pt-2048 Ceramic Heat Emitter 250 Watt(Include a guard for the heat emitter), combined with a Pulse Proportional thermostat

OR Microclimat AHS 500 Heater/Thermostat.

Use a PT-2465 Exo-Terra Dial Thermometer or PT-2472 Digital Thermometer to monitor the temperature.
Substrate

Aspen or beach chippings are recommended.
Décor

Use a PT-2851 Reptile hide/Cave small for youngsters. PT-2845 or PT-2847 for adults. You will need a water bowl we would suggest using the Pool Wood Effect-Giant until the boa outgrows it then something like a bird bath or washing up bowl will be required. Finally use a selection of artificial vines and plants, PT-3000-3052 these are just for decoration and make the vivarium look more natural. We would recommend at least 2 large vines and a selection of 3-4 + plants

CARE

Description
Common boas originate from Central to Southern parts of America; they have a silvery grey to brown coloured body with the tail being more distinct to a reddish Mahogany. They have red to brown coloured saddles with a chunky, beautiful triangular shaped head with the most intriguing eyes. They can ascertain an adult size of up to 9ft and have a life span of 20+ years.
These snakes should be kept in a forest style enclosure with some sturdy climbing branches, Even though these are heavily bodied snakes they are very good climbers and welcome the opportunity. The best substrate we would suggest would be Aspen or Beach Chippings. Provide plenty of hiding areas, and a large water bowl so the snake can submerse itself if it wishes. Be sure not to keep these snakes wet as this could lead to respiratory problems. Temperature at the hot end of the enclosure should be 88 – 95°F.
Even though these snakes are docile care should be taken when handling and we advise these snakes should only be kept by the more experienced handlers due to their size, and never on your own. Accidents can happen.

Housing
To house and adult common boa the minimum size requirement would be 55”x 24” x 24” minimum for an adult up to 8 foot and 72″(L) x 24″ x 24″ wooden vivarium for larger.
For heating, either using a 250 Watt ceramic bulb covered with guard (to eliminate any risk of your animal being burned) used in conjunction with a suitable thermostat we would recommend either the Habistat Pulse Proportional Thermostat which can be used with any non light emitting heat source, or a Microclimate AHS 250W Heater which is a Ceramic Infra Red heating element and pulse proportional thermostat housed in an easy to fit metal structure, which features an independent cut out for controlled initial warm up and extra safety.
Any heat source must be controlled by a thermostat which is one of the most important pieces of equipment you will need when housing any Reptile, This should be used in conjunction with 2 thermometers one at the warm end of the enclosure and one at the cool end to ensure the temperatures are reasonably accurate.
For lighting of the enclosure us a 2% UVB tube, As UVB light is not essential for snakes but UVA has been found beneficial in the well being of Reptiles.
Lighting also helps produce a day and night time cycle. Provide 8 – 12 hours of lighting per day.
Substrate we would suggest would be a Aspen or beech chippings.
Big sturdy pieces of cork branch for any climbing activity and plenty of cork bark which will provide good shady hiding areas for your snake to curl up and feel secure while it rests in the daytime.
These should be placed at both the warm and cool end of your enclosure to give the snake the choice of where it can hide, usually after feeding you may find your snake hiding under the warm end to help digest its meal, but if you only have one hide at the cool end then this gives the snake no choice as they will not just lay at the hot end exposed.
A large heavy bowl for water should also be placed in the enclosure large enough if possible for your snake to submerse itself if it wishes which in most cases is usually when they are in shed.

Feeding
The size of mouse / rat changes as they grow but eventually you’re Common Boa depending on the largest part of the body will usually be feeding on extra large rats or rabbits.
When your Boa is small feeding should be done every 7 days but an adult Common Boa feeding on a large rat we would suggest to feed every 10 – 14 days. This gives your snake a chance to fully digest the larger meal.
Do not handle you snake on the day of feeding and allow 48-72 hours after feeding before handling.
Ensure your mouse or rat is fully defrosted before feeding to your snake, the best way to defrost your food is to leave it at room temperature in a sealed box or zip lock plastic bag (to stop any flies) until fully defrosted.
Never feed your snake by hand always use a large pair of tweezers for babies and adults. Your Common Boa may not feed when going into or in shed but do not worry just try again once it has sloughed its skin. At this point you may find your Common Boa is hunting and ready for feeding.

Vivarium Viv-Exotic 36 inch VX36 these come in a variety of colours, Oak, Beech, Walnut.

Heating Use an Algarde Heat Mat 11 x 17 inch  or medium to large Exo Terra Heat Wave Rock. Use a Komodo Habitat Thermostat for the heat mat. to ensure that the heat mat does not overheat. this should be set at 75 deg F.

Use a PT-2465 Exo-Terra Dial Thermometer or PT-2472 Digital Thermometer to monitor the Vivarium temperature. Place the heat mat at one end of the Vivarium giving a hot end and cold end.

Substrate Aspen or beach chippings are recommended.

Décor Put logs, branches and/or artificial plants in the vivarium which will give the snake something to climb on, this will also make your vivarium look more natural.

Use a PT-2851 Reptile Hideout Cave Small for youngsters and a PT-2845 or PT-2847 for adults.

A Water Bowl PT-2801 will also be required and a selection of artificial plants, choose a selection from our range to give your vivarium that finished look, PT-3000 to PT-3052.

CARE

General conditions are the same as for corn snakes. See the Corn Snake Care sheet.

Further Information for an African House Snake.

African House Snakes are small to medium sized and are one of the easiest snakes to keep. They are one of the commonest snakes in Africa and can be found around human habitation, woodland, scrub-land, savannah and high grassland. The males are normally smaller than the females. In the wild they can grow in excess of 3´ whereas the female can exceed 5´. Captive bred snakes tend to be slightly smaller in both sexes.

Feeding Baby House Snakes can sometimes be awkward feeders. Try feeding them one or two pinkies every 4-5 days and then when they have grown move them onto fluffs / fuzzies. As the snake grows they will move onto larger mice. They are very fast at catching their prey so be careful of fingers when introducing the mouse to the snake. Handle your snake regularly as they make lovely pets and are very calm once they get used to it. If you get a baby snake then it is advisable to put a piece of cardboard in between the glass layers of your vivarium as they are great escape artists.

When you see these innovative vivariums you wonder why no one has done it before.

Simply buy the first unit and then add on to whatever size you want in 3’ sections which easily connect together.

This means that you no longer have to start with one vivarium and after a year buy a bigger one, then later on another etc., etc.

Now you can start with the starter unit which is available from ValueAquatics in two sizes the MODX24 which is 3’ x 2’ x 2’ (LWH) and the MODX36 which is 3’ x 3’ x 3’ (LWH). Then as your reptile grows simply add on the 3’ extensions to whatever length you require, very simple and easy.

The MODX vivariums and Extension packs all come in three colours Ellmau Beech, Winchester Oak and Tobacco Walnut to suit your décor.

This great idea now solves that problem of the big guys your African Rock or your Tegu that needs to be given a new vivarium every year now, it saves you time and importantly money.

John

ValueAquatrics offer these excellent water dispensers by Exo Terra are an excellent idea for giving your animal water. In a vivarium water evaporates quickly due to the surface area of the water bowl and water bowls can be easily tipped over not to mention being fouled. The Exo Terra Water Well gives your snake, lizard or tarantula access to fresh clean water. Inside the resin rock there is a reservoir that holds the water and supplies the well at the front with a supply of fresh water. The small well at the front prevents animals from fouling the water and a screen stops insects or very small reptiles getting into the reservoir. The exo Terra Water Well is made of very strong resin and is a natural rock finish making it very natural looking in any vivarium or terrarium setup.

Excellent source of clean water
Less likely to be knocked over
No fouling of the water
Naturalistic look
Very easy to clean and fill

John

ValueAquatics are pleased to announce the NEW AX Vivariums and CAX Cabinet range from Aquapac.

Aquapac have redesigned the AX Vivariums for arboreal reptiles which like to climb rather than being at ground level. The AX range is available in three sizes AX24, AX36 and the AX48 all are 2’ deep by 4’ high.

Because of the size of these vivariums a central rail that divides the glass pains giving two glass sliding doors at the top and bottom section. This offers better access to the bottom for cleaning etc.

A divider will be available shortly so that you can turn the vivarium into two the top section into an arboreal vivarium and the bottom into a standard type vivarium.

The CX cabinets have also been re designed and are an open shelved unit with no doors for ample storage and measure 465mm (18.6”) wide

All the AX Vivariums and CAX Cabinets are available in three colours; Winchester Oak, Ellmau Beech and Tobacco Walnut.

John

These canopies are designed to fit on top of the Exo Terra Glass Terrariums, they are a combination lighting system for both Fluorescent tubes and Halogen Spots. The canopies are extremely well made from Anodized Aluminium, they can take two fluorescent tubes and up to two 35w Exo Terra Sun Glo Halogen Basking spots. There are two switched power cords so that the fluorescents and or the Halogens can be used together or separately. 

With the two bulb system you can tailor the lighting to suit the animal the Halogens will raise the ambient temperature of the air temperature whilst the fluorescents can be used to give the correct level of UV creating a perfect UV, visual and heat combination for your reptile.

Here at ValueAquatics we carry in stock the three sizes to fit the Exo Terra Glass Terrariums.

Gives the most favourable levels of heat and ligh
Holds two fluorescent tubes and one or two Halogen basking spots
Two switched cables for independent control
Made of strong rigid anodized aluminium
Halogen GU-10 fitting
Can be mounted on the back or the front of the Terrarium screen

To fit the following Exo Terra Glass Terrariums

John

There is a lot of talk about which substrate is the best as some have a bad name for causing impaction of the gut or intestine.

We must look at the pro’s and con’s as there is no perfect substrate, if you look at the natural habitats they have all sorts of health and safety issues and impaction occurs even in the wild. The difference is we care for our animals and try to give them the best.

For snakes in general I have found that Aspen is the best type of substrate to use for Rat snakes, Corn snakes, Milk snakes, Gopher, Pine, Bull snakes and most Pythons and Boas to mention a few. It can also be used for many lizards especially the burrowing ones like Blue Tongue Skinks and also as bedding for rodents and other small animals.

Aspen is clean, non toxic and almost dust free. It completely absorbs odours and moisture quickly, it is also very easy to spot clean.

For very young snakes and lizards I would recommend keeping them on newspaper or kitchen towelling for the first year as this is when they are most at risk from impaction.

ValueAquatics have Aspen available in two sizes 1kg or multiples of and a bulk buy 14kg sack

John

I have found the Exo Tera Snake Caves excellent for Corn snakes, Milk Snakes, Californian King Snakes or any of the slim snakes that do not get bigger than 4’–5’.  Creating a stress free hide or nesting box for various species of Snake, lizard or even amphibians.

They are made of resin and finished to look like a stone, so they are easily cleaned inside and out, and looking very natural in a desert or forest floor set up.

They come with some natural moss which makes them ideal as a moist nesting or shedding box for many species of snakes, lizards and amphibians.

Includes Moss
Excellent for snakes, Lizards and Amphibians
Looks natural in most set ups
Easy to Clean
A secure hide or nesting box
Helps prevent stress
Stable and not easily tipped over

ValueAquatics can offer you The Exo Terra Snake Caves in three sizes at great prices.

John