Vivarium: Exo Terra PT2614 Glass Terrarium 90×45x60cm 36×18x24 inch (WxDxH).

 Or Vivarium AX36 (L915mm x D406mm x H1216mm.

Lighting: Lights for viewing only for PT-2614 Compact Fluorescent Terrarium Canopy PT-2227 and one bulb PT-2190 Repto Glo 2.0 Compact and one PT-2124 Night Glo Moonlight lamp for night time viewing.

For the AX36 two Arcadia ADH lamp holders & one PT-2104 Neodymium bulb 40w and one PT-2124 Night Glo Lamp for day and night time viewing.

Heating: PT-2047 Ceramic Heat Emitter 150watt & PT-2054 Glow light reflector for the terrarium.

For the AX36: PT-2047 Ceramic Heat Emitter 150watt and ceramic guard.

Pulse proportional Thermostat.

Substrate: Orchid bark or Moss

Décor: PT-2804 X-large water Dish, PT-3040 – PT3052 mix of 4-6+ plants, Vines 4 PT-3082 they need plenty of vines and branches to climb. Bark Cave large.

CARE

Distribution:
Boiga cyanea has a very large distribution; it can be found from Northern India all the way to China where it can be found in Kambodscha, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and in parts of the Malay Peninsula.
Habitat:
Boiga cyanea occurs in many different habitats found both at sea level and all the way up into the highlands up to 2100m. It is almost completely arboreal and can be found in small low shrubs, as well as the much taller trees. They are frequently found in close proximity to water and often in or around planted fields. Their coloration gives them excellent camouflage making them very difficult to find. These beautiful snakes are nocturnal hunters and spend most of the daylight hours curled up in a tree hole or entwined on branches or in the forks of tree branches. When active at night they are extremely fast and eagerly hunt down small lizards, small birds and possible small rodents.
Description:
Boiga cyanea reaches 90-150cm when adult, though specimens of 2m are not unknown. Its adult coloration is a beautiful green with a bluish cast to it. The belly is white to a light yellow. The eyes are a blue turquoise with catlike elliptical (vertical) pupils. Hence the common name of “Green Headed Blue Eyed Catsnake”. Juveniles are totally different the body from the neck to the tail is red-brown, the head is emerald green, the lips edged yellow, and the inside of the mouth is black. The eyes are large and seem to stick out at the side of the head and the brightest blue. It takes them from 8-14 months to go from the juvenile colouring to the adult going through greyish-red body coloration.
Venom:
The poison of Boiga cyanea resembles that of other Boigas, though it is usually much weaker than say that of the better known Boiga dendrophila. A bite from Boiga cyanea is normally of no problem to adult humans and is no worse then a bee or wasp sting. It can be dangerous if the person bitten has an allergic reaction to the bite. Boiga cyanea has very small teeth that are right in the back of the throat that you would not normally come into contact with.
Husbandry:
Boiga cyanea does best in as natural as possible vivarium. This should have plenty of branches for climbing with some hiding places; I find two or three tennis balls with a 2″ hole placed around the vivarium works well. They require a temperature of 26-32°C with a nightly drop to 22-24°C. In their natural habitat they are used to a reasonably high humidity so the Vivarium should be in the 60-90% humidity. I have found that this Boiga loves being sprayed with lukewarm water at night when they are active and will drink the water droplets from the walls or plants in the vivarium. I always keep a bowl of water on a small spider heat mat sealed in a plastic bag, which keeps the humidity high. I have also noticed the Boiga bathing and drinking from this bowl.
Feeding:
Boiga cyanea naturally feed on frogs, toads, smaller rodents and also on small birds. In the vivarium it is easier to feed them on small mice. Hatchlings will take pinkie mice though they may have to be assisted by teasing them with the pinkies and making them snap at them. I have had little problem in getting them to feed, though I have found it better to feed in the evenings by hiding the defrost mouse in the branches for them to hunt. With difficult feeders I have found that scenting with a lizard or chick helps, you can also scent with chicken broth or stock.  
Breeding:
A male and female of as near the same size is required, as they are known to be cannibalistic. Also a laying box of moist peat vermiculite or moss is needed for the female to lay her eggs. Eggs are laid approximately 42-50 days after mating and lay 7-14 eggs. The eggs measure 40mm x 25mm when laid. The eggs hatch out in approximately 85 days at 28°C.

Some people have had low hatch rates when the young have not managed to break out of the eggs. The reason for this is that they have been feeding their Boiga on mice and the egg shells have been too thick for the young to be able to break out. Feeding mostly chick bits I have had high hatch rates of 80% +.
Characteristics:
I have found these snakes to be very calm animals though I have had mine since they were hatchlings. I have also heard that they can be very aggressive snakes and will go into attack mode at the drop of a hat. I free handle my snakes as they are so calm and have never shown any aggressiveness even when I have lifted them out of the vivarium and did not notice the milky eyes as they were getting ready to shed.

John Gamesby

www.ValueAquatics.co.uk

Housing

Use a AX36 (for a sub adult to adult) Vivarium these come in Beech, Oak and Walnut. The extra height is required as this snake is mostly arboreal and needs lots of climbing branches and vines. As this vivarium needs to handle high humidity it is best to coat the inside with two or three coats of yacht varnish. When it is dry and no longer smells of varnish seal the inside joints with aquarium silicon sealant.

Lighting

Is for viewing so a PT-2110 Sun Glo Neodymium Lamp A19/60Watt. Spot lamp Guard. The bulb needs a ceramic lamp holder such as the Komodo Ceramic Fitting.

Heating

PT-2047 Ceramic Heat Emitter Heat Wave Lamp 150W or PT-2144 Heat Glo Infra Red Lamp R20/100W (Include a guard for the heat emitter or lamp), combine this with Habistat Pulse Proportional Thermostat set for 78 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a PT-2465 Exo-Terra Dial Thermometer or a PT-2472 We recommend two thermometers PT-2465 place one at each end to show the cool temperature and hot end temperatures to indicate that there is a heat gradient. effect.

Substrate

Aspen or beach chippings are recommended.

Décor

A water bowl will be required a Bark effect Water Bowl medium would be a good choice, use lots of plastic plants PT-3000-PT-3052 branches these will add to the décor and prevent the snake from becoming stressed, A few vines PT-3081-3082 will also help. Finally add three or four good stout branches making sure they are well fixed and cannot fall.

Green Tree Pythons are nocturnal (active at night) and arboreal (tree dwelling), a real gem of the rainforest. This utmost stunning species of snake is very popular among reptile hobbyists. As the name suggests, it is predominantly in green colour. Although some snakes may be yellow or blue with flecks of black, white and yellow colour. Babies are red or yellow with black and white flecks.
There geographical location range from New Guinea, Papua, Iran, Java and reaching as far as the Cape York Peninsula of Australia. With the progress of reptile industry, keeping of this snake is becoming more popular. Somewhat due to skin trade, folk medicine and hunting for food.
Behaviour
Green Tree Python is an arboreal snake with developed prehensile (grasping) tail which helps in movement amongst the branches. The prehensile tail, tight coil and colour of this snake are adaptations which help for life in the treetops. They spend most of the time coiled around branches with head in middle of the coil. This is its normal resting position.
These snakes have thermo-sensory pits along their lips which helps them to notice transformation in temperature. For example, if a warm blooded animal reaches within the range the python can notice the change in the temperature and same if a cold blooded animal reaches within the range. Evidences show that they sleep during the day and ground forage at night.
Variations
The Green Tree Python resembles a lot with a South American emerald tree boa (Corallus caninus). They are found in same ecological environment in their respective countries. Only thing that distinguishes the two is that the tree boas have elongated snout, bigger heads and the appearance of the head is flatter.
The python has a more compact and sculpted head. Unlike the broken line vertebral stripe of the python, the boa has ladder like vertebral markings. This could be an example of convergence between two different species in similar habitats, but remote. Distinctively it is considered to be relatives of amethystine python.
Feeding
Green Tree Python is carnivorous in food habits as are other snakes. In wild they mostly feed on warm blooded animals like birds, lizards and small rodents (rabbits, mice), but in captivity are offered baby chicks and small rats. It is recommended that the item of food should not be larger than the girth of the snake. The girth denotes the widest part of the snake, that is, the middle part of the body.
Hatchling Green Tree Python should be given pinkie mice. They should be fed with appropriate size of one or two food items once a week. As they grow their food size should increase but not the quantity. As an adult, they should be offered larger rat or mouse, but their food intake can be gradually decreased to once every two or three weeks.
Breeding
The female Green Tree Python breeds once a year and is oviparous, or egg-laying. The breeding season is August to December and the eggs are laid in late November to February. The female needs a nesting box for laying eggs, for this she uses either the hole in a tree or amongst tree roots on the ground.
The clutch size is between15-20 eggs, and the leathery-shelled eggs are incubated for about 39 to 65 days, depending on the temperature. The female python coils around the eggs and shivers to raise the temperature of the eggs as well as her body. Newly hatched pythons are typically lemon yellow, but sometimes are brick-red or blue. Hatchlings do not develop the adult green colouring for six to eight months.
Housing
While keeping this snake as a pet, you should construct the vivarium with more natural surroundings. This is aesthetically pleasing as well as it adds to the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its habitat, it will show better feeding response and grows quicker.
A vivarium of 90cm length x 60cm width x 60com height is ample for an adult Green Tree Python. A large housing with natural products and branches stops the snake from becoming overweight and lethargic, other to it, enhances the quality life of the reptile. The resistance power against any viral infections is more developed and helps encounter any late life problems.
Heating and Lighting
Green tree pythons require consistently high daytime temperatures and reasonably warm night-time temperatures if expected to thrive. The ambient temperature within the enclosure should be in the upper 80´s during the day with a localized basking area that approaches (but should not exceed) 90 degrees. In the evenings, temperatures may safely drop as low as 75 degrees with no ill effects, although a few degrees warmer is recommended for younger animals.
Heat can be provided in a number of ways, however, as arboreal snakes that spend little time on the ground, under tank heating pads may be less effective with Chondros than with other species of snake. Instead, ceramic heat emitters, infra-red heat bulbs, and standard basking bulbs are highly recommended primary heat sources. A new development in herp keeping, the radiant heat panel, is also an acceptable alternative, but these devices should always be used in conjunction with a trustworthy thermostat.
Temperature should be monitored regularly with the use of at least 2 high quality thermometers. Ideally, there should be a thermometer placed on both the warmest and coolest ends of the enclosure. This will ensure that the snake has a safe range of temperatures available to it without the risk of overheating or chilling.
While Chondros do not seem to require full spectrum lighting at the level of some basking lizards and turtles, they do benefit from a regular photo-period of 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. A standard fluorescent bulb will suffice however there is some merit to the idea of using low output full spectrum bulbs with these snakes. As mentioned above, UV light is not mandatory, but it may have positive psychological and behavioural effects on the animals over time.
Substrate and Furnishings
The substrate used for green tree pythons should be one that promotes healthy humidity levels, yet is resistant to mould and fungus. Commercially available reptile bark (orchid bark) is a popular choice, as are coconut husk products.
Chondros are arboreal snakes that spend most of their time coiled among horizontal branches. A variety of branches and sticks of varying diameter should be used to furnish the enclosure. Perches should be arranged in such a way to offer the snakes multiple basking options, both high and low, and both near to and far from the heat source.
The inclusion of live or plastic plants helps to maintain a natural setting for your snakes, but additionally provides security for the animals and serves as natural places for water droplets to collect after the terrarium has been misted.
Patches of sphagnum moss are highly recommended, as it will not only act to beautify the enclosure, but will function like a sponge when it gets wet, and slowly release water during the day, subsequently raising the humidity within the cage.
Water and Humidity
Water should always be made available to green tree pythons via a large, sturdy water dish. These pythons will typically drink from the water droplets that form on their coils and perches after being sprayed. However, the addition of a water bowl ensures that the animals always have access to water, and additionally, said bowl will aid in maintaining adequate humidity levels.
In the wild, Chondros live in lush tropical forests, where rain is frequent and humidity levels high. To reproduce this environment in the terrarium, regular misting of the entire contents of the enclosure with room temperature water is necessary.
The watering schedule will vary based on the type of enclosure, ambient humidity where you live, and the substrates used. Until you determine the regimen that works for your specific set-up, consider a twice a day schedule and modify it as needed.
Enough water should be sprayed that the enclosure walls, substrate, perches, and the snake itself have droplets on them. The cage contents should never become soggy, and if that becomes the case, consider spraying less often. Optimally, the substrate should be nearly dry before it is sprayed again.
The skin shedding process is a simple and effective way to gauge whether you have the humidity levels properly adjusted. If your python sheds effortlessly, and the skin comes off in a single piece, then you are doing well. However, if the snake’s skin seems to be flaking off in tiny pieces over the course of several days, you will need to increase humidity levels with more frequent misting and/or a larger water dish.

Vivarium EX55 for an adult

Lighting: Arcadia Dry Controller ACR36 and PT-2155 Repti Glo 2 48” 40watt.

Heating: Komodo ceramic lamp fixture and PT-2048 Ceramic Heat Emitter, and guard with a Habistat Pulse Proportional Thermostat.

OR Microclimate AHS 500 instead of the above.

Substrate: Orchid Bark as a base and Moss on the top, enough to completely cover the snake.

Décor: Large hide and water Bowl that is large enough for the whole snake to submerge in and sturdy enough not to be tipped over. 

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Common name(s): Blood Pythons, Red blood python, Malaysian blood python
Native to: Peninsular (Western) Malaysia, Sumatra east of the central dividing range of mountains, Bangka Island and other islands in the Strait of Malacca, including the Lingga islands, Riau islands, and Pinang.
Adult size: 5/7 feet

Eggs: average clutch 18-30 eggs.

Appearance: The Sumatra Blood Python gets its name from the blood red colour that washes over its skin. They are also dusted in light yellows and oranges and have thick bodies, perfect for constricting.

They are a snake of medium length with a very large girth relative to its length. The head is long and broad and distinctly wider than the neck. The anterior half of the body appears as pale with dark pattern, while the posterior appears as dark with pale pattern. There is a black post-ocular stripe and in some populations there are black lateral blotches on the sides. There is much variation of colour in individuals and in populations. The dark elements of the pattern may be red, orange-red, ox-blood, brown, tan or yellow. Blood pythons are without red coloration at hatching and appear as predominantly tan with black markings. Blood pythons attain their adult colours usually between to and three years of age. At three and four years of age the coloration of blood pythons is at its zenith.   
In the wild: The Sumatra Blood Python, in the wild, can be found in the vast rice fields and plains of Sumatra, Cambodia, Indonesia, Thailand, Malaysia, and Singapore. They are not rare animals and can be found frequently in the wild if you look in the right places. They are good hunters, feeding on mice and rats and rabbits and all number of small mammals in the rice fields and grasslands of Sumatra. However, the Pythons themselves are also hunted by people for their skin and meat.

Food: Most pythons and boas are fed once a week. Be warned that they might be picky eaters; some of them will only eat with the lights out and some of them have to “hunt” their prey first, although it is best to feed them killed, frozen prey to avoid injury or parasite infestation to your snake.

Ease of care: Average

Temperament: Sumatra Blood Pythons do have variable temperaments however; while some can be quite calm and docile, others are high-strung, nervous, and quick to bite.
Vivarium set up: At all ages, blood pythons require a secure well-ventilated cage. A wooden vivarium must be sealed with aquarium silicon sealant after painting the inside it three oats of Yacht varnish. A glass aquarium with a secure ventilated top (screen wire or perforated metal) can make a satisfactory cage for a young specimen. Plastic storage boxes, with numerous perforations for ventilation, also can be used to maintain blood pythons. Some of the commercially available PVC, polyethylene, ABS plastic or fibreglass cages probably best accommodate the large size and bulk of adult blood pythons. I would initially place hatchlings in a small enclosure with about 40 square inches of floor space; we have found that often, if placed in too large an enclosure, a hatchling may be insecure and fail to feed. Once regular feeding begins, this species will quickly require a larger space, and should then be moved to cages with 180 – 300 square inches of floor space. By two years of age, most blood pythons will require a cage with 6 -12 square feet of floor space. One of the most common mistakes made in keeping this python is to not provide a suitably large cage for the adults.

Substrate: I used to keep mine on Moss with orchid bark underneath.

Note: Sumatran Blood Pythons are large snakes – growing to an average of six feet long and topping off at around nine feet. Although they are not usually seen growing larger than seven feet, it is possible to obtain a larger size in captivity, so be warned. The Sumatra Blood Python is an awe-inspiring snake, one that will certainly capture the imaginations of you and your guests. If you are not an experienced snake keeper, you may want to try an easier, more predictable species at first; the Sumatra Blood Python is a very large and often aggressive snake that should only be kept by experienced hobbyists. You will want to raise this one from childhood. Capturing one or purchasing one that has lived in the wild is a bad idea, as the snakes may be excessively unhealthy or aggressive. If you get a baby, and raise it from birth, it will be more likely to become handleable and get used to you than one taken from the wild.

Vivarium: Exo Terra PT2614 Glass Terrarium 90×45x60cm 36×18x24 inch (WxDxH). Or Vivarium AX36 (L915mm x D406mm x H1216mm)

Lighting: Lights for viewing only for PT-2614 Compact Fluorescent Terrarium Canopy PT-2227 and one bulb PT-2190 Repto Glo 2.0 Compact and one PT-2124 Night Glo Moonlight lamp for night time viewing.

For the AX36 two Arcadia ADH lamp holders & one PT-2104 Neodymium bulb 40w and one PT-2124 Night Glo Lamp for day and night time viewing.

Heating: PT-2047 Ceramic Heat Emitter 150watt & PT-2054 Glow light reflector for the terrarium.

For the AX36: PT-2047 Ceramic Heat Emitter 150watt and ceramic guard.

Habistat Pulse proportional Thermostat.

Substrate: Orchid bark and/or Moss

Décor: PT-2804 X-large water Dish, PT-3040 – PT3052 mix of 4-6+ plants, Vines 4 PT-3082 they need plenty of vines and branches to climb. Bark Cave large

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Sulawesi Black Mangrove Snake (Boiga dendophylum gemmicincta)

The information here is also good for the other Mangrove Snakes (Boiga dendophylum).

Location: Indonesia, Sulawesi Island is one of the four larger Sunda Islands of Indonesia it is situated between Borneo and the Maluka Islands.

As hatchlings they are black with orange bands that diminish with age.

This species of snake belongs to the genus Boiga. They are one of the largest cat snake species, averaging in lengths between six to eight feet. They are considered mildly venomous, though moderate envenomations resulting in intense swelling have been reported. There have been no severe cases of hospitalisation or fatalities that I know of
Habitat: The mangrove snake is found more often in lowland rainforest than Mangrove swamps, from which it is named.
Food: Feeds on small mammals, Birds, lizards, frogs, snakes and fish.

These snakes are nocturnal and prefer to hide during the day.
They are very aggressive snakes and should be handled with a grab stick or hook. If you prefer to handle your snakes then gloves should be used.
These snakes have a long strike range.
With a long strike distance, it can be quite a handful, handling a 200cm+ specimen. Some specimens are very docile, but it seems most of them are very aggressive all the time. They are more aggressive at night.

Venom:
The whole Boiga complex consist of rear fanged snakes and most are harmless unless you are allergic to the venom, recent studies have shown that some species have venom as toxic as the venom from the death adder (A. Antarticus).
Toxicity is different in each Boiga species. Boiga irregularis has been known to cause some severe envenomations and a few deaths among infants. Bites from Boiga dendrophila sp. have caused large swellings.
Though their means of delivery is very poor. Being rear fanged, they have enlarged teeth in the back of their mouth. In these there is a small groove which allows the venom to run from the venom glands and into their mouth and then have to be chewed into the prey.
So if you receive a fast grab/release bite you are not likely to suffer any consequences from the bite. Maybe a rash, local swelling and pain around the bite mark. But if you let the snake chew for a while you can suffer from quite a nasty envenomation. Effects can be headache, nausea, swelling, pain, discolouration of the surrounding tissue as well as necrosis (tissue death). Usually a pair of solid gloves should be worn and will keep the snake from biting you.

This being said, it is also important to point out that lots of people get bitten by various Boiga sp. every year and don’t feel any effect at all. Above symptoms are a worst case scenario.

Terrarium/Vivarium: Interior and Decoration:
The material of the cage is not that important. Only thing you must make sure is that it can resist the high humidity needed. Glass cages are good the largest Exo Terra terrariums are excellent and have no problems with water. But attaching branches can be a problem. It can be done by using a good solid background or arrange the branches so they don’t need to be fixed.
Unless you insulate the terrarium with a background like cork tiles, they let out a lot of the heat.
The wooden vivariums are easy to arrange. You can screw your branches and other decor to the sides and they are well insulated. But they don’t cope well with the high humidity.
Of course you can paint the inside  with a non toxic water-resistant paint or yacht varnish. Giving it 2-3 coats will do fine.

Tall cages with lots of branches and plenty of places to hide are to be preferred. I like to use jungle vines, imported from Asia, as they give a really cool look.
Make sure to create hiding places both high and low. Plants also look great and provide good cover for your snake as well as helping to keep the humidity up.
They help to keep a good environment in your cage. Plastic plants are good as they can take the wear and tear of the snake climbing over them. They are also easy to keep clean.
The size of the cage is of course determined by the size and species of your snake.
Boiga babies do best in smaller cages with lots of tight places to hide. Non transparent plastic boxes will do fine for housing neonates. Critter boxes or Fer-Plast cages are good but either paint the outside or stick coloured paper to the plastic as the clear plastic can cause stress.
For juvenile Boiga (50-80 cm) I would suggest no less than 40×40x80 cm (Long x Wide x High). I would prefer 60×60x100 cm. For adult species (120 cm+) I say no smaller than 60×60x120 cm for a single animal. For a large 200+ cm snake a larger cage will be necessary!!
NOTE be aware that most Boiga species are highly cannibalistic. Do not attempt putting a smaller specimen in the cage with a larger one. I would suggest keeping them separate and only introduce them to each other when trying to breed them.

Substrate: I use coconut fibre (Coir) because of the high humidity also Sphagnum moss is good.

Water: A water bowl that is large enough for the snake to lie in but not completely submerge is good and should be changed daily.
Spray the cage two or three times a day to give some added humidity, also most Mangroves will not drink from a bowl but drink the water droplets from their bodies and foliage when sprayed.

Humidity: should be 70-80%

Heating: It is best to use ceramic heaters (make sure to shield the bulb with a wire cage). Best for larger vivariums as they generate a lot of heat Always use with an appropriate pulse proportional thermostat.
Heat mats can be used on the smaller cages/vivariums placed under half the vivarium/cage. Also use with a thermostat which can be used with the Ceramic later on.

Aim for a temperature range of 78°F-85 ° F days time high, 75° -80°F. Do not go above 85°F otherwise they can stress out.

Wild Caught Animals & Quarantine:
Now dealing with WC Boiga is a lot more difficult, as they are usually full of internal parasites and very dehydrated when they are bought.
Parasites are best treated by a vet unless you know what you are doing and 10% Panacure (Fenbendazole) is used by tubing it directly into the stomach via a syringe and tube. They will probably need two doses a fortnight apart.
Flagellates can be treated with Flagyl (metronidazole) in the same way.
Dehydration I treat any wild caught snakes in the same way for dehydration. Take a large plastic storage box with a good fitting lid. Add half an inch of luke warm water and add half a can of sport aid drink one with re hydration salts and EDTA in them. Add the snake and replace the lid and tape it down so that the snake cannot push it off. Leave for half an hour then return the snake to its vivarium/cage. Repeat this daily until the snake is re-hydrated.
To tell if the snake is dehydrated pinch the skin and it should spring back immediately, the longer it takes the more dehydrated the snake is.
Dehydration is the biggest killer of imported Boigas.
Before getting the snake home, you should have prepared a quarantine area. It is important that you separate your WC Boiga from your already healthy collection to avoid spreading disease or parasites.
When the quarantine area is setup and you have got your Boiga(s) take a stool (faecal) sample and take it to the vet. Your vet should have the sample within 24 hours of the snakes “making it”. When you find it, put it in a little plastic container and into the fridge if you cannot go to the vet right away.
Ask him/her to analyse the sample looking for worms or parasites like flagellates.
Keep the animals in quarantine for at least 6 months. If your Boiga is being treated for something during the 3 months, keep it in quarantine until the treatment is over and another faecal sample has shown the snakes is fine.

 John Gamesby

Housing

Vivarium New MODX36 for young snakes then add the MODX Extensions as it grows.

For an adult 9 Foot+ a vivarium of 72” x 24” x 24 is the minimum

Lighting

Lighting is for viewing so a PT2132 Sun Glo Neodymium daylight basking spot lamp and a bulb guard would suit best.  Use on a Komodo Ceramic Fitting.

Heating

Microclimate AHS Heater Unit 500w this can then be used up to about 6’-7’ vivarium using the MODX and extensions. Use a guard as the casing can get hot if the unit is working hard.

Substrate

Aspen or beach chippings are recommended.

Décor

Use a PT-2845 or PT-2847 Reptile hide/Caves for hatchlings increasing as the snake grows to something like washing up bowls for adults. You will need a water bowl we would suggest using the Pool Wood Effect – Giant again increasing with the size of snake. Finally use a selection of artificial vines and plants, PT-3000-3052 these are just for decoration and make the vivarium look more natural. We would recommend at least 3 large vines and a selection of 3-4 plants also use stout branches or Bamboo sections.

Do not use Cherry wood or any coniferous woods the sap is poisonous to reptiles. 

Care

Distribution

Various subspecies of this snake are found throughout most of Australia and New Guinea.  The more brightly coloured specimens (referred to as ´Jungle Carpets´) are found in northern Australia.  While darker, but still attractive specimens are found mostly in the central and southern parts of its habitat.

Habitat

Carpet pythons are found in a variety of different habitats ranging from grasslands and wooded savannah’s, as with the Southern Carpet Python (Morelia spilota imbricata) to the more arboreal of the Jungle and Coastal Carpet pythons (Morelia spilota cheynei and mcdowelli) in heavily forested Australian subtropical rainforests.

Adult Size

The smallest carpet python is the Jungle Carpet, which is typically between 140 cm and 200 cm (4´ 6″ to 6´ 6″).  South-western Carpets generally reach lengths of 170 cm to 190 cm (5´ 6″ to 6´ 3″), and Coastal carpets between 180 and 250cm (6´ to 8´).  However, Coastal carpets have been known to reach lengths of 14 feet.  Hatchling carpets of the three species listed above have a total length of approximately 42 cm.

Temperament

As with most partially arboreal snakes, carpets can be a little highly strung.  When young, carpet pythons are highly sensitive to potential threats. Or in other words you may get bitten a few times when the animal is young.  As time passes, you will learn to ´read´ the snake’s reaction to you and it will learn that you are not a threat.  Translation, you will not get bitten as often!!!!

Lifespan

Carpet pythons typically live to be between 20 and 30 years old in captivity.

Captive Care

Carpet pythons are readily available as domestically bred snakes and are easy to care for.  Most subspecies are of a moderate size which makes them more desirable than larger species (i.e. Burmese pythons, reticulated pythons…).  Since they are more highly strung than other species, they are definitely not the best choice for beginner keepers or young children.

Diet

Hatchlings and juveniles – pink/ fuzzy mice, and pink/fuzzy rats every 7 days; Adults – large rodents such as rats every 10 days.

Temperature

25° to 30° C (75-85 °F)

Space Requirements

An adult Carpet Python can be housed properly if kept in a vivarium with adequate vertical climbing space.  A 4´x4´x2´ vivarium is suitable for smaller species (ex: Jungle Carpets), but a 6´x4´x2´ is better for larger subspecies (ex: Coastal Carpets).  Young carpets can be housed in a 15 to 35 gallon terrarium for the first year or so.

Breeding

Carpet pythons generally reach sexual maturity at 2.5 to 3 years of age and can produce a clutch of eggs in a captive environment.  Winter cooling is not absolutely necessary to induce breeding if the animals are kept in the low 80°s throughout the year.  Instead, it seems it is more important to have multiple males to induce combat behaviour which in turn stimulates copulation. Typically the eggs take between 49-72 days to incubate with a temperature between 90°F and 92°F.

Special Requirements

Daily misting is always a good way to increase humidity for the more tropical species such as the Jungle Carpet.  An elevated hide spot such as a round piece of cork bark provides a good sense of security.  The possibility of excessive handling and not enough arboreal climbing space (to provide the animal with a sense of security) are two factors to think about if your snake goes off food.  However, if kept properly, carpet pythons tend to be a hardy snake.

Housing

A Vivarium Exotic 36 inch VX36 Minimum for an adult is available in Beech, Oak, Walnut and Black (as a special edition when available)

Lighting

For viewing only so an Arcadia Dry Vivarium Ballast Controller ACR30., for light tube Exo Terra PT2152 Repti Glo 2.0 (30”) 25 watt.

Heating

Option 1

PT2045 Ceramic Heat Emitter Heat Wave Lamp 60w

Requires a Komodo Ceramic fitting with a guard so that the snake cannot burn itself on the ceramic.

Habistat Pulse Proportional day/night thermostat needs to be set at 87°–90° F for daylight temps, and turned down to 70° and 75° F for the night.

Option 2

Microclimate AHS 250 needs to be set at 87°–90° F for daylight temps, and turned down to 70° and 75° F for the night. This does away with all the above except for a guard.

Substrate

Aspen or beach chippings are the best thing for Royals.

Décor

As Royals are nocturnal and very shy snakes they will require a good hide/Cave, Shedding Cave Wood Effect Medium or large should be good for an adult royal. Keep some damp moss inside it for shedding.

They often like to soak in a water bowl so a large bowl is required for an adult a large dog ceramic water bowl works well. You need something heavy so it is not tipped over.

Plastic plants can be added to the décor. Royals seem to enjoy climbing amongst them at night so make sure they are well anchored. Five or six plants should make a nice display PT-3000-PT-3052.

CARE

Common Name: Ball Python or Royal Python Latin name: Python regius

Native to: Central and Western Africa

Size: Adults average in size from three to five feet

Life span: Ball pythons are one of the longest-lived snakes. It is not unusual for these

Pythons can live up to 20–30 years in captivity. One specimen lived for 47 years at the Philadelphia Zoo.

General appearance: Ball pythons are named for their defensive behaviour of rolling into a tight ball with their head tucked in the middle. Like all other pythons, ball pythons have spurs at their vents. There are many different colour morphs and patterns available today in captive bred specimens. The “standard” ball python has large chocolate brown markings with lighter medium-brown spots interspersed between the darker spots. The belly is generally off-white or a pale Gray.

Housing: Remember that all snakes are escape artists and when designing an enclosure it is of the utmost importance that whatever enclosure is used is made as escape-proof as possible. Generally an adult ball python should be kept in is a 36 inches x 12 inch vivarium.

Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be maintained at 80°F-85° F with a basking temperature of 90° F-95° F. Night-time temperatures should be 75°F- 80° F.

Heat/Light: There has been no evidence to suggest that photo-periods affect the keeping of this species. If a regular photo-period is provided it is recommended to use fluorescent bulbs in order to minimize the extra heat generated by incandescent bulbs.

Red basking bulbs or ceramic emitters can be used to generate basking spots. Heat mats can also be used to help raise the ambient temperature of the enclosure. The Exo Terra Heat Wave Rocks are also useful as a secondary heat source,

Housing:

Vivarium Viv-Exotic 24 inch VX24 or LX24. These come in Beech, Walnut and Oak.

Lighting:

Is for viewing so a PT-2131 Sun Glo Neodymium Daylight Basking Lamp R20/50Watt. Spot lamp Guard 230 x 120 x120mm. The bulb needs a ceramic lamp holder such as the Komodo Ceramic Lamp Fitting.

Heating:

A Royce Heat Mat 10 x 12 inches placed on the floor of the vivarium. Use a Habistat Mat Stat  Thermostat. To ensure that the heat mat does not overheat. The thermostat should be set at 75 deg F so that when the lights are on the temp should rise to the low 80´s. 

A medium Exo Terra Hot Wave Rock PT2002 can also be used as a basking rock.

You will need two thermometers PT-2465 place one at each end to show the cool temperature and hot end temperatures to indicate that there is a heat gradient.

Substrate:

For baby snakes we recommend kitchen paper, wallpaper backing paper or newspaper for the first six months. This is due to the fact that they can get compaction of the gut by ingesting substrates, like Aspen, sand, and beach chippings etc. After the Rosy Boa has reached twelve months old the best substrates are Aspen, beach chippings or desert sand.

Décor:

Water dish Choose a PT-2803 Exo Terra Water Dish Medium, for adults and PT-2801 Exo Terra Water Dish small, for hatchlings. The water bowl should be kept at the cool end to avoid excessive humidity and the water changed daily as they often defecate in their water.

Hides/Caves use a PT-2851 for hatchlings and a PT-2853 for adults.  

Care

Rosy boas are one of the smaller members of the boa family. Like many boas and pythons, they are nocturnal (sometimes corpuscular), moving around mostly at night or around dawn and dusk. Rosie’s may live in excess of 15 years. Their name comes from Lichan = forefinger (Gr. (=) and – oura = tail, possibly due to the bluntness of their tail. Trivirgata refers to their prominent triad of stripes.

There are currently four subspecies of rosy boas; as with the classification of many animals, the taxonomists frequently dispute the species and subspecies designations. As more information is learned about the physiognomy and range of the animals in question, these may change currently, the subspecies designations for the rosy boas are:

C. trivirgata Rosy Boa. To 40 in (100 cm). Ranges through south-western U.S. (Southern California, Arizona, and northern Mexico). Ground colour slate Gray or brown.

L. t. bostici Mexican Rosy Boa. Ground colour laced with pale, creamy broad longitudinal stripes. (Or, L. t. bostici = Cedros Island Rosy Boa and L. t. trivigata = Mexican Rosy Boa)

L. t. roseofusca Coastal Rosy Boa. Ground colour laced with blotchy reddish-brown longitudinal stripes.

L. t. gracia Desert Rosy Boa. Ground colour laced with well-defined pink, orange or tan longitudinal stripes.

Rosie’s look much like their cousins, the Rubber boa (Charina bottae). Rosy heads are set off slightly more from their bodies, and the tops of their heads are covered with numerous small scales, rather then the fewer, but much larger, scales of the Rubber boa. Rubber boas have blunt, rounded tails while the Rosy tails are more tapered, ending in a rounded tip.

Housing: Rosie’s range in size from 2-3 feet (never more than 4 feet) in overall length and can thus easily be housed in a 4ft vivarium. They do not climb much, needing only low branches, so a tall vivarium need not be provided as for the more arboreal boas. Provide bark slabs or half-logs for caves as an occasional alternative to substrate burrowing.

Substrate: Rosie’s like it dry. Their native habitat is mostly warm savannah’s that experience little rainfall. Although they are not desert dwellers, they need to be kept in a dry vivarium like a desert dweller. Substrates such as aspen, Beech wood chips work well. Rosie’s are burrowing snakes, so the substrate must be layered to a depth of at least 2”. Plain shredded paper may be used but small hide boxes (big enough for the snake to get into but not so big that they can’t feel it around them) will have to be provided on both sides of the temperature gradient.

Humidity: If you live in an area of higher humidity than their native range (60%), you should consider a vivarium with a top or one or two sides made of mesh, or that has solid sides with ventilation panels that may be opened and closed as necessary to keep in warms but provide enough ventilation to keep humidity levels down. In such climates, substrate such as aspen is suitable. Being kept in humidity higher than they are adapted to can cause skin problems (bacterial or fungal infections) and the stress of being kept in such conditions may lead to illness.

Water: You can provide a water bowl provided the snake is not able to tip it over and that you do not fill it up so high that if the snake climbs into it to soak it will not overflow. On the whole, bowls with less surface area of exposed water will evaporate more slowly than bowls allowing for a wide expanse of exposed water surface.

Temperatures: Rosie’s are from warm, but not desert climates (except the Desert Rosy). 73-83 F (23-28 C) temperature gradients will work well through most of the year. Night time temps can drop slightly. Rosie’s spend most of their time underground where the temperatures are more constant than they are above ground. Provide heat by use of an under tank heating mat under one-half of the vivarium. If additional heat is necessary during the winter months, you may use an overheat heat source. If you need to use the overhead source at night, make sure it is not a white light bulb; use a red, blue or one of the nocturnal lights made especially for reptiles, or a ceramic heating element. Be sure to monitor the temperatures to be sure they do not rise over or fall under the temperature gradient.

Feeding: Many snakes can take in surprisingly large (for their body and head size) prey. Rosie’s have a relatively small gape, however, and so need to be fed small prey items. Captive bred Rosie’s are easily fed on defrosted frozen mice, with young started out on pinkies, moving up to adult mice when they are full grown. Young should be fed once or twice a week, adults once every 7-10 days. Given their nocturnal habits, they are best fed at night.

Breeding: To ensure successful breeding, Rosie’s should be hibernated during the winter. Starting in November, feeding should be stopped. A couple of weeks later, after the snake has defecated out the remains of its last meal, the temperatures gradually reduced so that by December the enclosure is at 55 F (13 C). Maintain this temperature for about 12 weeks (until March). Allow to come gradually to room temperature, then warmed up slowly to the normal temperature gradient. Begin weekly or more frequent feeding, especially of the females. House males and females separately.

In April, place the male into the female’s enclosure. After about a week or so of mating, return the male to his enclosure. Add a warmer basking area to the female’s enclosure, up to 86 F (30 C) and maintain that throughout the pregnancy. Expect that the female will not eat much–or at all–during this time.

Birth will generally occur in September. Five to six live young (as many as 13 have been reported), each about 12 inches in overall length, will be born. The babies are active, often feisty, but bites should not be of concern. Babies should be removed from the mother shortly after birth.

After their first shed, which may occur as soon as two days after birth or as long as two weeks later, feed the babies pinkies? Some have reportedly fed prior to their first shed; if they are particularly feisty or appear to be seeking, try offering them food sooner. Remember: if you are housing them together you must separate them at feeding time!

Some may not feed at all at this time: in the wild, they are born just before the winter sets in, and in the wild many such late-season babies do not eat at all, going right into hibernation for the winter, emerging in the spring ready to feed. If they are not losing body mass or weight while not feeding, then not feeding should not be a reason for panic. It is always nice, however, to get them feeding if you can, but resorting to force feeding should only be done if the snake is losing weight. If the babies are feeding, you may not want to hibernate them during their first winter, using that time to feed them weekly and ensure them a good, healthy start in life.

Young rosy´s will have almost attained their full adult size by their second winter. Sexual maturity occurs by age 3-4 years. Females in the wild generally breed only every other year, though this may not be the case in captivity. If you do breed yearly, be sure to evaluate the females overall condition individually each year before doing so. If she is not up to breeding weight or has not fully recovered from the previous autumns birthing, let her rest a year.

I wish I had a pound fro every time I have been asked this question and I could have retired years ago.

If you had seen some of the horrors that I have seen because the owner did not provide a guard on the vivarium light, you would never leave a viv bulb unprotected.

Royal Pythons seem to be more prone to wrapping themselves round a heat source and getting severely burnt (graphic picture).

This is probably due to their thermal receptors picking up the heat signature. Reptiles do not appear to feel the thermal burn until it is too late and the burn is severe and deep. So for the sake of a few pounds now will save you a lot in veterinary bills later on and peace of mind.

So what should be guarded?

Any Infra red heating, incandescent, spots and especially ceramic heat emitters. In fact any heat source or glass bulbs or tubes.

The fluorescent tube and the new compacts do not get hot enough to cause problems with burns, and I use them without any problems but if you are extremely safety conscious there is a slight possibility of a snake wrapping around one and smashing the tube or bulb.

ValueAquatics now offer Ceramic and Lamp safety Guards, these are easily screw fitted into position over the bulb and fitting providing a safe environment for your reptile. These covers are well made and very sturdy. They are available in two sizes 23.5 x 12 x 12cm and 16 x 11 x 11 cm in black.

If you have a reptile that has been burnt in any way you must get it to a qualified veterinary surgeon ASAP as it will require antibiotics and maybe specialist care.

If you cannot get to a veterinary surgeon take the animal out of its cage and keep it on kitchen paper or newspaper. Get some Pure Aloe Vera gel from a chemists make sure it has no added perfumes etc., Put some on the palms of your hands and let the snake run through them getting well coated and do this two or three times a day. If a lizard then rub the gel into the affected area carefully.

Make sure everything is spotlessly clean as infections are very common with burns. Always get veterinary help as burns are very dangerous left untreated.

John

Housing

Use an AX24 Vivarium these come in Beech, Oak and Walnut. The extra height is required as this snake is mostly arboreal and needs lots of climbing branches and vines. As this vivarium needs to handle high humidity it is best to coat the inside with two or three coats of yacht varnish. When it is dry and no longer smells of varnish seal the inside joints with aquarium silicon sealant.

Lighting

Is for viewing so a PT-2110 Sun Glo Neodymium Lamp A19/60Watt. Spot lamp Guard . The bulb needs a ceramic lamp holder such as the Komodo Ceramic Fitting.

Heating

Use either an Infra Red Bulb 75w and a Habistat dimmer thermostat or a ceramic heat emitter 60w and a Habistat pulse proportional thermostat. Use an appropriate safety guard with the bulb or ceramic heat emitter.

Use a PT-2465 Exo-Terra Dial Thermometer or a PT-2472 We recommend two thermometers PT-2465 place one at each end to show the cool temperature and hot end temperatures to indicate that there is a heat gradient effect.

 Substrate

Aspen or beach chippings are recommended.

Décor

A water bowl will be required a Bark effect Water Bowl medium would be a good choice, use lots of plastic plants PT-3000-PT-3052 branches these will add to the decor and prevent the snake from becoming stressed, A few vines PT-3081-3082 will also help. Finally add three or four good stout branches making sure they are well fixed and cannot fall.

Further Information for an Amazon Tree Boa

 CARE

Amazon Tree Boas are also known as Garden Tree Boas, Garden Boas and Common Tree Boas. They are an arboreal (live in trees) species and can be found throughout South America. Their basic colours can be anything from black, brown or grey to any shade of red, orange, yellow or any colour in between. Some are devoid of pattern whilst others may be speckled, banded or have a chevron shape pattern. The combinations with patterns and colours are endless.

Housing

The vivarium for an Amazon must be able to handle humidity. Vivariums that have too much ventilation will allow the humidity to dry up too quickly. Vivariums without enough ventilation may develop fungal and bacterial growth and the snake may become ill. When spraying the vivarium make sure you do not spray any bulbs especially ceramic heat emitters. It is also important to have some type of perches/branches. Amazons like the bigger chunks of driftwood as they like to lie in a nook or on a flat or broad section of wood. They seem to be more comfortable when several points of their body are in contact with some sort of surface. It is not uncommon for captive bred Amazons to spend a portion of their time coiled up on the vivarium floor. Temperatures for Amazons should be kept at 80 to 82 degrees during the day time with a drop to about upper 70´s for night time. To maintain the humidity it is advisable to spray the cage twice a day perhaps morning and afternoon then this will allow the cage to dry out overnight. The humidity will rise immediately following a spray and will reach 80 – 90% but will then fall until the next spray. Making sure that the animal is misted on daily basis will assist with the shedding process.

Feeding

On the whole Amazons are normally problem free as far as feeding goes; however, there are sometimes the picky eaters. Warmed prey is very rarely refused. It is advisable to feed the snake out of the cage, as it will then, not associate your hand going into the cage as food. Do not feed prey that is too large for the snake as regurgitation may occur. Try to keep the prey size to the diameter of the thickest part of the snake’s body. As most snakes, they will go off their food when they are due to shed.

General Information

They are a lovely snake to own. Being arboreal they are a brilliant display snake in that they can normally be seen during the day coiled up on a branch and at night they are out and about searching for prey or just hanging still from a branch waiting for something nice to eat to walk by. Handle them little and often and be very careful as they have a habit of unwinding backwards and can be very fast.

 John G
www.valueaquatics.co.uk

Housing:

Vivarium MODX36 for a youngster increasing with the MODX extensions as it grows.

Lighting:

Lights are for viewing only so an Arcadia vivarium dry Control Gear C5 combined with an Arcadia freshwater Tube 42 inch 36 Watt will be fine.

Heating: Use Pt-2048 Ceramic Heat Emitter 250 Watt, combined with a PT-2062 Porcelain Wire Clamp Lamp Holder and a Pulse Proportional thermostat

OR Microclimate AHS 500 Heater/Thermostat.

Use a PT-2465 Exo-Terra Dial Thermometer or PT-2472 Digital Thermometer to monitor the temperature.

Substrate:

Aspen or beach chippings are recommended.

Décor:

Use a PT-2851 Reptile hide/Cave small for youngsters. PT-2845 or PT-2847 for adults. You will need a water bowl we would suggest using the Pool Wood Effect-Giant until the boa outgrows it then something like a bird bath or washing up bowl will be required. Finally use a selection of artificial vines and plants, PT-3000-3052 these are just for decoration and make the vivarium look more natural. We would recommend at least 2 large vines and a selection of 3-4 + plants.

Hog Island Boa (Boa constrictor imperator)

Hog island boas are only found on a few islands off the coast of Honduras.  It is believed that these boas are extinct in the wild.  Hog island boas are a smaller form of boa and rarely exceed five feet.  Hog island boas are long lived snakes and can live over 20 years

Temperature
Hog island boas should be maintained at 85-90 degrees during the day, with a hot spot under the heat light reaching 95 degrees.  Night-time temperatures need to range between 75-80 degrees.  Daily misting should be used to maintain humidity between 60-80 %.  Snakes shed in one complete piece; if yours is shedding in pieces the humidity is too low.  Another option to increase humidity is to provide a box with a small entrance, for the snake to enter, filled with damp potting soil and moss.

Housing
Hog island boas grow quickly and we recommend that you provide the largest cage possible.  One can expect an adult hog island boa to need a cage at least 4 feet long by 2 feet wide. 

Bedding
our recommendation for bedding is bark or coconut bark, this bedding holds moisture very well and duplicates their natural environment. 

Food
Hog island boas feed on fuzzy or small adult mice as babies and juveniles.  As your snake grows it will soon move up to rats.  We recommend that you feed baby and juvenile hog island boas 1-2 times per week.  Hog island boas can be fed once every 7-10 days to maintain proper body weight.  Like most snakes, hog island boas typically will not eat when they are preparing to shed.  After your snake has shed you can return to your normal feeding regime. 

Cleaning and Handling
The terrarium should be cleaned as necessary. Any faecal matter should be cleaned out several times a week. The bedding should be completely changed once a month and fresh clean water should be provided at all times.  The inside of the terrarium can be cleaned out with an appropriate reptile cage cleaner, we recommend Natural Chemistry’s Healthy Habitat.  Hog Island boas can be handled on a daily basis and always wash your hands before and after handling them