ValueAquatics Care Sheet      Basic Equipment for a Yemen Chameleon

Housing

Vivarium AX24 Beech, Oak, Walnut

Lighting

Use an Arcadia Control Gear Dry Viv14/15W for the UV light tube combined with a PT-2160 Exo Terra Repti-Glo5 (18”) 15 Watt tube, for the correct level of UV. Change the bulb every 9 months as the light quality breaks down dramatically, reducing the benefit to your Chameleon.

Heating.

Use a PT-2045 Ceramic Heat Emitter 60 Watt This gives the Chameleon a hot spot that it requires so that it can digest its food. Combine this with a ceramic heater safety cage and a Pulse proportional thermostat set at 85-90°F.

Substrate

Kitchen Paper or newspaper has to be used so that the Chameleon does not get its tongue fouled with Sand or Beech chippings etc.

Décor

Chameleons cannot see standing water so will not drink from a bowl, you should use a PT-2906 Exo Terra Waterfall and Pump – Medium this should be cleaned daily. The easiest way to feed a chameleon is to put its food in a tall feeding dish (a 1 litre washed ice cream container will do). This prevents the crickets / locusts from running around in the vivarium.

Use lots of branches, these need to be strong and sturdy. Fruit tree branches are good but do not use cherry as it is poisonous, as are conifer branches. Scrub them clean with hot soapy water, rinse and allow to dry. Finally use a selection of artificial vines and plants, PT-3000-3052 these are just for decoration and make the vivarium look more natural. We would recommend at least 2 large vines and a selection of 3-4 plants

Vitamins

Nutrobal or Reptivite and Calcium powder. Many reptiles require a diet based on live or fresh foods, due to their specific feeding habits. These are readily available, but in themselves do not offer a balanced supply of nutrients. To ensure your pet receives a properly balanced diet, it is important to increase the nutrient content of these foods with a nutrient supplement.

CARE

Most chameleon species are fairly solitary and intolerant of other individuals being housed with them. Therefore one ADULT animal per cage is the general rule.

Veiled Chameleons all have their own personalities. Some individual chameleons may become tame to the point of climbing over to “greet” you at their cage door; others will only want to come out occasionally. Letting your Chameleon come out for a wander (supervised) every now and again is a good idea and helps keep them fit.

To tame your Chameleon, try and get him/her to hand feed from about 10 weeks old. Firstly, place a waxworm in the flat palm of your hand about 10 inches from your chameleon so as not to scare him/her. Then be patient! The waxworm will start to wiggle and eventually the chameleon will notice the food. Once your Chameleon is looking at the food with both eyes it should soon fire out its tongue to catch its prey. It might take a while at first but eventually the chameleon will become more confident and will eventually take food quickly every time. Once it is feeding confidently from your hand other foods can be introduced.

Housing

Chameleons can either be kept in purpose built Chameleon enclosures or normal vivariums (height needs to be about 20 inches plus for adults). If a normal vivarium is used, one of the glass doors should be replaced by a mesh panel as all Chameleons require a lot of ventilation (have the remaining glass door the same side as the basking lamp). Poor ventilation, like that found in a typical glass aquarium, will allow the air to become stagnant and provide an opportunity for fungus and bacteria to grow which in turn will affect the health of your chameleon (and may even kill it). The cage should be furnished with branches of different diameters so that the chameleon can easily navigate the entire cage. Live plants will provide good hiding places and add to the beauty and humidity of the enclosure. Because some chameleons are known for eating vegetable matter, only non-toxic plants should be planted in their enclosures. The most common choices among chameleon breeders are Pothos, hibiscus, Umbrella plants or Ficus benjamani, Ficus “Alii”, and Ficus natidia. Plastic plants can also be used with or instead of real plants and have the advantage that they are easily cleaned. The arrangements of lights, plants and branches should be such to allow for at least one basking site where the temperature will reach the upper limits of the animal’s comfortable temperature range. The temperature in the rest of the enclosure should be lower allowing the animal to thermo regulate (chose its own temperature) by moving around the cage. Do not use substrate with chameleons as it can sometimes get it stuck in their digestive track causing problems.

Temperature

Veiled chameleons, coming from Saudi Arabia and Yemen, need hot temperatures during the day. The basking area should be around 90ºF to 95ºF. At the opposite end to the basking spot the temperature should be at least 10ºF lower than the basking spot. Standard 40 /60 watt light bulbs can be used to create a basking spot. Vary the wattage to get the basking spot the right temperature. Alternatively attach the bulb to a dimmer thermostat with the heat sensitive probe situated near the basking spot. As Chameleons climb on anything its better not to cover the heat source with a wire cage otherwise they tend to climb on the cage and burn their underside. It’s better to situate the heat source far enough away from the nearest branch that they can’t touch it at all.

The basking spot light should be on for 12 hours a day.

Baby Chameleons should be kept a bit cooler than adults during the day.

Veiled chameleons are very hardy chameleons that can withstand a large range of temperatures. At night, it is necessary for them to experience at least a 10ºF to 15ºF drop in temperature. In a normal house, no heating is required at night. This allows better resting and simulates their natural habitat where temperatures drop significantly at night.

Lighting

Lighting is very important for Veileds as it is for all chameleons. Veiled’s should be provided with a UVA/UVB producing light source and a basking light. UVA and UVB exposure allows chameleons to synthesize vitamin D3 into their skin. The synthesis of vitamin D3 allows the absorption of calcium which is critical for all chameleons.

The light should be on for 12-14 hours a day. All Chameleons love natural sunlight. On hot summer days take your Chameleon outside and put it on a bush to bask. No artificial light can really duplicate the full effects of the suns rays on a sun loving reptile like the Veiled Chameleon. Obviously make sure your Chameleon can’t escape or the local cat or bird of prey does not fancy a quick meal first! An outside aviary with a dripper system is Chameleon heaven on a summer day if you have the space. Always make sure the Chameleon can get out of the sun if it wants to though.

Water

Few chameleons will ever learn to drink water from a standing water dish. In the wild, chameleons lick dew and rain droplets off of leaves, or are attracted to moving water. This means that in captivity, special watering techniques need to be used to keep chameleons healthy and hydrated. Chameleons are naturally attracted to droplets of water which reflect light. Chameleon keepers can take advantage of this by designing water systems that takes this natural behaviour into account. Drip systems are the most common form of chameleon watering system. They generally consist of a container of a water container that sits above the enclosure. A plastic tube with a flow control clamp runs from the water container and into the chameleon cage. Water slowly drips out of the end of the plastic tube. Pre-made drip systems are available and generally include some sort of adjustment to control the rate at which water drips from the tube. Other, simpler drip systems can also be used. A tub of water with a hole in the bottom made by a drawing pin works just as well suspended from the ceiling of the enclosure. If a drip system is used in a chameleon cage, care needs to be taken to prevent the cage from becoming too wet. This is easily accomplished by placing a container inside the cage to catch the dripping water. Make sure the chameleon can’t tip it over. Covering the container with mesh will prevent the chameleon or crickets from falling in. The water can then be emptied every day. Another method of watering your chameleon is to simply mist the inside of the enclosure several times a day. Chameleons will eagerly lick water off plants, as well as the sides of the enclosure.

With Veiled Chameleons you should mist twice a day and have a drip system going for about 10 minutes at a time at least once a day. If no drip system is used increase the spraying to several times a day. After a while you may find the Chameleon will drink directly from drips from the water spray.

Some Veiled’s rarely drink water however that does not mean it should not be available regularly.

Chameleons like clean warm drinking water. Pre boiled semi-cooled water or mineral water (warmed up with boiling water) is best. If using tap water leave it to stand for a while to allow chlorine etc to disburse.

Water temperature drops dramatically when sprayed. To get the right temperature, spray your hand from 12 inches away. If it feels warm then it’s the right temperature (you will find you have to use fairly hot water in the spray bottle to get a warm spray at 12 inches). Be careful if your Chameleon drinks directly from the nozzle of the spray bottle as the water for spraying could be too hot if coming out in drops.

Feeding

Veiled chameleons will eat a bit of vegetable matter, along with their diet of live insects. You may find that the plants in the enclosure gradually get eaten by the Chameleon (although some never eat vegetation at all). Try watercress, grated carrot (or sweet potato) and chopped spring greens. Dandelion leaves are an excellent replacement for spring greens and watercress. Just make sure you pick them from areas that don’t use pesticides and wash them first.

All captive chameleons require calcium and vitamin supplementation. The specific reason for this is beyond the scope of this document. But in short, chameleons need vitamin D3 in order to metabolise calcium for growth and proper nerve functions. Many ´basking´ reptiles naturally produce vitamin D3 in their skin when they bask in the sun and are exposed to UV radiation. Since the UV outputs of most human-made full-spectrum lights do not provide the same UV exposure as the sun, additional supplementation is ESSENTIAL.

Feed your chameleon(s) daily by placing live insects with the fresh vegetables into a plastic container which is large enough to prevent the insects from escaping (a 2 litre ice cream tub is perfect). Vitamin &/or mineral supplementation when required can then be sprinkled on the insects and vegetables. Shake the container to evenly coat the vegetables and insects with the supplement. Alternatively use a plastic cup and suspend the container under the chameleon’s favourite perch. Do this in such a way that it is easy for the chameleon to reach the food in the bottom of the container. The insects will eat some of the vegetables so keeping them gut loaded and alive hence the chameleons will benefit even if they do not directly eat much of the vegetable matter themselves. For very young hatchlings, a baby food jar makes a nice food dish. The same vegetable mixture that is fed to your chameleons should also be fed to the insects you will feed to your chameleons. This will ensure the insects are healthy and nutritious by the time your chameleons eat them. Following is a list of the different insects you can use to feed your chameleon:

Adult Crickets – Brown Crickets are safer (Blacks can bite Chameleons at night when they are sleeping). When fed small slices of sweet potato (or carrot) and fresh greens they are nutritious and can comprise up to 80% of your chameleons total diet. Crickets however have a low Calcium/phosphorus ratio so additional calcium supplementation should be included with most cricket meals. Supplement lightly with pure calcium powder, not one with vitamins.

2 – 3 Week Old Crickets- Like adult crickets, but are small enough to be fed to juvenile chameleons.

Tip: Crickets should be gut loaded (fed) for at least a day prior to being used as food. Put a slice of carrot and a dandelion leaf (washed or spring green/cabbage) into the cricket tub. Leave them for 24 hours if possible before feeding to the Chameleon.

Locusts – A brilliant food for Veiled’s. Feed the locusts on grass and greens before feeding to the Chameleons. Small hoppers for babies and winged adults for Adults. Fruit flies are a great source of food for baby chameleons.

Mealworms – Mealworms are inexpensive and, like crickets, easy to load with valuable nutrition by feeding them a quality diet of fruits and vegetables. Commercial gut loading such as bug grub is also available and is excellent. Only feed occasionally as the hard chitin shell of the mealworm is not digestible and can cause blockage of the gut when overfed.

These should only be fed to your chameleon when your chameleon is large enough to eat them. Like crickets and mealworms they should be fed a diet of fresh fruits and vegetables (or commercial gut load) prior to using. These are much better than normal mealworm as there is more body compared to hard shell. Best fed when they have just shed their hard shell (when they are white in colour).

Waxworms- Waxworms are sometime called grubs. They are nutritious, full of moisture, and easy to store. Chameleons LOVE them. They can be made more nutritious by feeding them Bee Pollen Granules from a Health Food Shop. Unfortunately, some Chameleons love them so much they seem to get addicted and won’t take anything else. To avoid this, they should only take up a small proportion of your Chameleons diet. They are the best food to get chameleons used to feeding from your hand.

Wax Moths- Waxworms turn into moths, which your chameleons will love to eat.

Wild-caught Insects- Many chameleon owners set up insect traps during the summer to catch their own insects (not bees or wasps or hairy caterpillars). Grasshoppers, flies, crickets, and spiders will all be devoured by your chameleons. This also helps offer a diverse diet necessary for the health of your chameleon. It is important, however, that the insects be collected from areas where insecticides are not used. Moths can be collected at night and stored until the morning for feeding.

Pinkie Mice- Some people also supplement their adult chameleon’s diets with new born mice called pinkie mice. Not all Chameleons will take pinkie mice. They are definitely a matter of taste for you and your Chameleon and should only be fed once a week if accepted but they do help to get added calcium and nutrients into the Chameleon.

Veiled chameleons, when young, should be fed as much as they will eat. As they get older they should be given a more stationary diet (large crickets, large mealworms or Morio worms, wax worms, earthworms etc.). It is important that you limit the amount of food you feed an adult chameleon. Allowing a chameleon to gorge itself, will result in a very obese and unhealthy chameleon. When they are young they will devour anywhere from 6 to 20 small cricket sized insects daily. When they grow up to adults, they will eat about 5-15 full grown medium to large sized insects.

Supplementation

The following supplement schedule is recommended for your adult chameleons:

Calcium: Most feedings can include a light dusting of a pure calcium supplement such as Komodo Calcium powder although if all food is well gut loaded every other day is fine.

Multivitamins: Add a good dose of Nutrobal multivitamin and calcium powder 1-2 times per week. (Twice a week for babies).

Female Chameleons – Egg Laying

As with all egg laying lizards, females can have a tendency if not looked after properly to retain eggs, which can eventually kill them. A common misconception with Chameleons is that if a female Chameleon is not mated she will die egg bound. This is not true. If however she is not given a suitable place to lay her eggs then this is possible. Female Chameleons will produce eggs 2-3 times a year whether they have been mated.

John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet      Equipment for a Green Iguana

Vivarium: A cage or vivarium 6’ x 5´ x 4´ is the Minimum for an adult.

Lighting: Two PT-2056 10” reflectors, Two PT-2192 Exo Terra Solar Glo Sun Lamp 125W.

Heating: include a tubular greenhouse heater on a thermostat and guard the heater.

Substrate: Orchid bark

 Décor: Large strong Branches, Large water bowls big enough for it to get in to. Extra Large feeding bowls.  

CARE

Common Name:  Green Iguana
Scientific Name:  Iguana iguana
Distribution:        Central & South Americas
Size:                      5´ – 6´ Total Length inc. tail

The Green Iguana,

An arboreal lizard, mainly from the South & Central American rain forests, sometimes seen in captivity in the reptile houses of zoo’s and wildlife parks, the Iguana is a large colourful lizard, mostly mottled shades of green in colour with varying black banding on the body and tail. Most Iguanas can learn to become tame with regular handling and petting. Males when adult can be territorial, and usually do better kept separate from other males. Iguanas have been known to show some aggression and for this reason they are not recommended as an ideal reptile purchase for beginners or children.

CAPTIVE ENVIRONMENT:

Use full spectrum 5% “UVB” lighting around 12 hours per day, which mimics natural sunlight, this is a special reptile tube light, (Reptisun, Zoomed, T-Rex etc). For maximum effect change the tubes every 6 months. Or use the Mercury vapour UV/Heat lamps Like the Exo Terra Solar Glo.
Provide a spot-lit basking area with access to a cooler area.
Supply stout strong branches and logs for climbing and exploring, making sure there is nothing the Iguana could trap or snag its claws on.
Greenhouse tube heater can help maintain the required temperature from below, and are a useful supplement especially during cold weather, Use with a suitable thermostat.
 

HANDLING:

Both sexes can benefit from frequent handling to help with taming, they will sometimes initially struggle to get free, but are also known to actually enjoy being stroked or rubbed on the body and will sometimes sit still for a while and accept this petting, care should be taken during breeding season when behaviour (in particular of males) can be erratic, and so common sense would be to avoid the facial area, avoid leaving Iguanas with unsupervised children and generally keep your eyes on them at all times especially around fingers arms legs or feet.

NATURAL HABITATION:

Green Iguanas are arboreal lizards (tree dwelling) they inhabit the Tropical rain forests of South and Central America at reasonably low altitudes of up to 1,000 metres, (Higher altitudes being too cold).
In captivity adult Iguana’s require a habitat, compound, den, vivarium, call it what you will, of at least 6´ x  5´ x 4´.
More space is always better whenever possible.

TEMPERATURE:

Daytime temperatures should be:
Basking area around 85-95 degrees F.
Cool area 75-85 degrees F.
Night temperatures can fall to around 70 degrees, even perhaps lower, as long as they are able to warm up in the morning.
Extra care should be taken during times of power cuts / failure, try to give this some thought so you are prepared if need be.
Basking area temp may be a little higher, as long as the Iguana is able to move to a cooler spot to thermo regulate.

HUMIDITY:

Iguanas require moderate to high levels of humidity.
You can help achieve this by misting the vivarium every other day, spray misting the Iguana himself and frequent bathing.
A large dish of water in his habitat will also help with this process through evaporation.
Humidity also helps considerably with the shedding process of Iguanas.

WATER REQUIREMENTS:

Supply a large fairly deep water dish for drinking, with fresh water provided daily.
Note: If the Iguana also uses this for bathing, then be aware that they have a strong tendency to defecate in water, it seems to have a laxative effect on them, and therefore it will need replacing on a more regular basis.

ANATOMY:

Two very important anatomical features.
First, Thermoregulation.
An Iguana (as with all cold blooded species) cannot generate its own body heat, and so must thermo regulate, by moving in and out of hot and cooler spots (gradients) to maintain the correct body temperature.
Hence the different temperature zones indicated in TEMPERATURE above.
Secondly, Metabolism.
Iguanas need UVB light (in the absence of natural sunlight) to convert Vitamin D into its active form, in this active form it can then assist in the absorption of calcium into the body.
So sunlight or in the absence of it, at least 12 hours of full spectrum light (UVB) is required daily to ensure your Iguana remains healthy.
This together with a good calcium intake and the required warmth will prevent the occurrence of MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease).
A good varied diet should ensure the required calcium levels are taken up, but if in any doubt then a commercial calcium / vitamin supplement (sprinkled on food) may be given occasionally as a top up, or at times such as, when females are gravid, if you have a picky eater, or if the Iguana has a loss of appetite due to breeding condition, change of surroundings etc.

BEHAVIOUR:

Most Iguanas can become tame to some degree, with regular handling and petting.
Males can be territorial, and usually do better kept separate from other males.
Behaviour is sometimes erratic during breeding season when extra care should be taken in handling, due to some having the tendency to become more aggressive at this time.
Iguanas are normally lethargic creatures, and can become even more so by a number of happenings, such as, a change of habitat or owner, being handled by a different person, breeding season, a change in diet, or indeed anything out of the norm.
They are creatures of habit and tend to sulk if this is disturbed in anyway, but usually the appetite and normality returns after a short break.

ILLNESS:

This section is intended to help with initial identification of these problems, if problems persist or if they appear serious then veterinarian advice should be sought. The only person able to diagnose disease and prescribe medication is a veterinarian.
Sadly the one most commonly associated with Iguanas MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) need not exist, if owners took all the necessary steps in the care, diet, and housing of their iguanas.
Calcium, warmth and UVB lighting prevent MBD from occurring, but sometimes when an Iguana has been rescued or received from an unwanted situation, where care has not been a priority, then the signs of this disease can be apparent.
The good news is it can mostly be reversible depending on severity, especially in early cases, with the Iguana going on to lead a near normal life.
Signs are….swollen limbs, receding jaws that look out of line from the side, dragging of legs, spongy areas around the mouth and in severe cases, deformed bones and a twisted lumpy spine.
Consider prevention of this disease your duty (makes it easy to remember)…
D.U.T.Y.
Diet, UVB, Temperature, You to ensure they receive it, Therefore resulting in no problems with MBD.

Mites…Little creatures usually no bigger than a full stop “…..”
They can hide under your Iguanas scales, in the neck creases, dewlap folds and around the eyes and feed on their blood.
Mites can be hard to get rid of due to the number of hiding places available in the habitat.
There are many mite eradication preparations now available, but they must be used in combination with cleanliness to be effective.
Get veterinarians diagnosis if you suspect mites but are unsure.

Worms…Intestinal parasites, Can sometimes be seen like a tiny light coloured thread moving in the faeces.
A faecal examination from a vet can confirm the infection.
Fairly easy to treat, a first dose to kill off the parasites present, with a follow up dose around 2 weeks later to catch any hatched eggs should do the trick, again while being treated cleanliness is a must to prevent re-infection.
Veterinarian’s diagnosis should be required to confirm.

Tail (loss of)…Although not an illness as such, it does happen and can be a worrying sight for an Iguana’s owner, so for a brief explanation.
The Iguanas tail is designed to come away easily, but unfortunately cannot be re-attached.
It is generally thought to be an escape mechanism in the wild, where a predator can be left with the tail while the Iguana makes its escape.
Because of this, never try to catch or hold your Iguana by its tail.
Loss of tail is mostly something that happens to juvenile Iguanas and is normally re-grown, but to a lesser size and colour than before, it usually heals ok but monitor for signs of infection and keep clean while healing.

Stomatitis (Mouth rot)…An illness which can if left untreated eventually be fatal! It usually presents by bleeding gums, a green/grey cheesy substance noticeable when yawning or eating, and a lack of appetite. Treatment consists of Antibiotics (sometimes 2 types combined) and removal of the caseous plaque from the injured mouth; needless to say a Veterinarian is needed to oversee this treatment. Causes can be an injury to the mouth allowing the bacteria to enter the wound, soft gums due to lack of UVB or a generally run down unhealthy Iguana.

LIFE EXPECTANCY:

The normal life expectancy of a healthy Iguana is around 15 years, some have indeed lived longer than this (oldest recorded being 29 years Hatfield), and many have died younger, many Iguanas fed on a previously bad diet of dog or cat food for example, seem to die around 6 years of age due to kidney / liver problems.

SEXING:

Exact sexing especially in juveniles is very difficult and can only be done in certainty by someone with veterinarian experience in a procedure called probing the cloacae vent. However the characteristics that develop as they get older, can give a good idea of gender, and these are, In males…usually larger – heads, dewlaps and subtympanic scales, the femoral pores which are a row of glands along the underside of the thighs are much larger and more pronounced in males, and also exude a waxy substance that is used to distribute scent, also erratic behaviour during breeding season which may consist of biting , nipping and sometimes aggression but note this behaviour is not shown in all males and can indeed be shown in a few females.
Head bobbing, a series of movements of the head both up and down and less often side to side, are usually much more pronounced in males.

For females, generally the opposite of the above …smaller dewlaps, heads and subtympanic scales, the rows of femoral pores are just small dots, and in breeding season they sometimes start digging or scratching as if looking for somewhere to lay eggs.
They may become gravid and actually lay eggs but these would obviously be sterile if no male has been in attendance.

NUTRITIONAL REQUIREMENTS:

Iguanas are herbivores and so require a good varied vegetarian diet, some outdated information crops up now and again mainly in old books, that says they can eat crickets, mice or cat & dog food, thankfully this information now tends to be disappearing fast, all experts are now in agreement on the herbivore status.
The diet below gives a good example of foods that can be offered and does not need to be adhered to 100% but is supplied for guidance purposes, I find in winter time when fresh food can be scarce, a good substitute is the pre-packed mixed bags of salad greens available in all supermarkets, try to avoid the ones containing Iceberg lettuce which is practically water and nil nutrition, these can be further supplemented with dandelion leaves and flowers.

DIET: Feed up to 50% of,
Leafy greens, Turnip greens, Nasturtiums (leaves & flowers), Dandelions (leaves & flowers), Escarole, Rocket, Hibiscus leaves and flowers, Watercress, Land cress, fresh Alfalfa and Carrot tops.

Up to 35% of,
Green beans, Zucchini, Squash, Bean sprouts, Okra, Parsley, Grated carrot Red Yellow or Green bell peppers (Sweet peppers), Leeks, Peas, Cucurbits, Parsnips alfalfa pellets, Vine leaves, Chinese greens and Celery.

Around 10% of,
Fruits such as Papayas, Blackberries, Kiwi, Peach, Banana, Grapes, Plums, Apricots, Oranges, Clementine’s, Satsuma’s, Mango’s, Apples, Figs, Strawberries, Pear, Cherry, Melons, Fuchsia fruits and Rose hips.

Up to 5% from the occasional foods below,

The following contain “Oxalates” which binds with calcium and hampers absorption, and should not be fed in large quantities, Chard, Spinach, Rhubarb stems only (beware rhubarb leaves are very toxic), Dock, Sorrel, Beets and Beet greens.

These contain “Goitrogens”, so same as above feed in small quantities only, Cabbage, Broccoli, Kale, Cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and Bok Choy.

 SUMMARY:

The ownership of a Green Iguana is not to be taken lightly and certainly not to be just purchased on a whim, they are not too difficult to look after but do need some care and attention and can run to some expense with special lights for UVB, basking and heating A large habitat is also required for all but the very young Iguana….So to summarize I would say The Green Iguana is not a beginners or young Childs pet, but for someone with the time care and funds available, it can be the making of a good few years of enjoyment.

 John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet   Equipment Required for Keeping Terrapins & Sliders

Aquarium 36”x15”x12” L x D X H smallest for 1 adult Turtle. Only needs 6”-8” water

Lighting

For Aquarium Arcadia control ACU18

Tube PT2160 Exo Terra Repti Glo 5.0 24” 18Watt

OR

PT-2187 Repto Glo 5.0 Compact New 26Watt to give UVA/B for shell and bones.

PT-2054 Glow lite 21cm clamp lamp.

Heating

For the Aquarium/Vivariums Rena Smart Heater heater/thermostat 150w

Substrate

Bare bottom or River/Aquatic sand not gravel. 

Filter

Tetratec EX 700 External canister Filter.

Décor

Zoo med Turtle dock, Log Cave barks effect Medium and or long Cave Bark effect Medium.

Two thermometers one aquatic for the water and one for the air temp PT-2472 digital thermometer will do for both. To check the water temp leave the probe in the water to check the air temp just lift it up out of the water.

CARE

This is a general Care sheet on Terrapins/Sliders. Other turtles may need different care.

Distribution:

Yellow bellied slider. South eastern Virginia to Northern Florida

Red Eared Slider. Originally from the Mississippi River to Gulf of Mexico. However they are now found world wide due to people releasing them into the wild.

Size: Males can reach 7 – 9 inches on average where females reach 7 – 12 inches. Contrary to popular myth, red ear sliders do not stay small if kept in a small enclosure.

Life span: In the wild they can live up to 20 years and there have been reports of them living up to 40 years in captivity.

Housing requirements:

Terrapins need a lot of room. The general rule of thumb is 1 inch of shell per 10 gallons of water (so a 4 inch turtle should have 40 gallons tank). There are a variety of enclosures that have been used successfully. The most common is either glass or acrylic aquariums. Preformed ponds, stock tanks, and storage containers may also be used for an enclosure. Whatever is used, care should be taken that is escape proof for the red ear slider and predator proof to prevent other animals getting in the enclosure. A screen top on top of the enclosure is a good way to achieve this. Screen mesh should have ½ inch grids. If the grids are any smaller it may obstruct any UVB rays that are being directed in.

Temperature:

Water temperature should be 78º – 80º F for hatchling red ear sliders while adults prefer it at 72º – 76º. Day time air temperature should be 75º – 80º F with a basking area air temperature should be 85º – 90º. Either two thermometers on either side of the enclosure or infra-red thermometer may be used to get an accurate temperature.

Heat/Light:

UV lighting providing UVA and UVB for proper calcium metabolism and skeletal development of the red ear slider. This may be achieved by Mercury Vapour bulb or fluorescent bulb with at least 5% – 10% output of UVB. Sunlight is the best source of UVB. Incandescent lights and ceramic emitters may be used to provide basking spots.

Water temperature may be heated with a submersible water heater at 3-5 watts per gallon.

Substrate:

No substrate is needed for red ear slider enclosures. Many people feel it is easier to clean and improves filter performance. If you would like a more natural feel for our slider you can use river rocks (large, smooth rocks) or sand. Gravel should NOT be used because can be ingested by the red ear slider and cause blockage and prolapsed rectum.

Environment:

Filtration is a must with red ear sliders. The general rule is you want a filter three times more powerful than what would generally be used for an aquarium for fish. A basking area should be provided so the slider can climb out and fully dry their shell. This can be achieved by bricks, cinder block, cork bark, driftwood, grapevine, fixed PVC, as well as a wide array of commercially made basking platforms. If you have a female slider, you may also want to provide an area with moist soil for them to dig and lay eggs.

If there is nowhere is available to dig, females may retain the eggs which can cause health problems. Hiding areas are used by many turtles and should be provided in the enclosure. Please keep in mind that these should be stable so they do not trap the slider and cause it to drown.

 John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet     Equipment for Keeping Red-Foot Tortoise

Indoor Housing

Tortoise Table 48” available in Beech, vivariums should not be used to keep tortoise in as they require a good circulation of air and a good day night temperature gradient. Otherwise long term respiratory problems can occur.

Outdoors Housing

During warm weather All Tortoise love being outdoors, use either the Apex Shelter and run or the Square rabbit/guinea pig run. Tortoise love digging so some plastic mesh chicken wire underneath the runs.

Lighting/Heating

The best lighting for a tortoise is one that gives both heat and the required UVA and UVB. Use a PT2192 Exo-Terra Sola-Glo sun lamp160watt. These Bulbs are designed to give both heat and UV to your animals. , Exo Terra Glow Light clamp lamp

We recommend two thermometers PT-2465 place one at each end to show the cool temperature and hot end temperatures to indicate that there is a thermal gradient.

Substrate

Best substrate is Loamy compost and playpen sand 1:1

Décor

Use a PT-2851 Reptile Hide Out Cave or a Tortoise Hut Large. For drinking water use a Tortoise pool Medium to Large for Adults. Plastic plants are not good as the tortoise WILL try to eat them. A few Rocks and Branches are good as they love climbing over things and exploring.

CARE

This care sheet is intended only to cover the general care of this species. Further research to best develop a maintenance plan for whichever species/subspecies you are caring for is essential. 

Red-foot tortoises are among the most popular and appropriate tortoises for beginning tortoise keepers.  Stunningly attractive, their black shell contrasts with their yellow scute areola, bright red legs and yellow or red markings on their head.  Being from multiple habitats, they are among the hardiest of species. As long as their requirements are met, Red-foots can be expected to give literally a lifetime of companionship.  While they do get fairly large, one over 16 inches (40 cm) would be considered exceptional with most attaining a length of 14 inches (35 cm) or so. There is also a smaller “dwarf” variant called a Cherry-head that only attains a length of 10 – 12 inches (25 – 30 cm) as an adult. 

Upon initial sighting, a Red-foot tortoise, Geochelone carbonaria, looks very similar to the closely related Yellow-foot tortoise, G. denticulata, with the primary distinction being the presence of yellow scales on the forelegs of the Yellow-foot and red scales on the forelegs of the Red-foot (thus the common names for each).  However, of all of the differences between these two species, this is actually the most variable.  While Red-foots may be more intensely coloured, this is not a universal distinction; there are Yellow-foots that are very brightly patterned and comparatively drab Red-foots.  While there are numerous morph metric differences between these two species, by far the easiest method of telling Red-foots and Yellow-foots apart is the differences in the scales on their heads. Yellow-foots have elongated prefrontal scales and a fragmented frontal scale.  Red-foots have shortened prefrontal’s and an intact frontal scale. The prefrontal and frontal scales are the scales at the tip of the nose.  In addition to this obvious difference, female Red-foot tortoises are more elongated, looking much like a loaf of bread while older male Red-foots tend to develop an hourglass shape.   Adult Yellow-foots of both sexes tends to be wider/ rounder and somewhat flatter in their overall shape.

HOUSING RED-FOOTS INDOORS – The most common form of indoor accommodation for small or medium sized red-foot Tortoises consists of a “tortoise table’ to all appearances this looks like a bookshelf unit flipped onto its back. A reasonable size for a hatchling is 2 feet by 3 feet as the animal grows the size of this habitat should be increased.   For an adult red-foot tortoise the indoor accommodation should be at least 6 feet by 4 feet into the bottom of this “turtle table” holes can be cut to allow for the sinking of food, water and eventually nesting containers flush with the surface for easier animal access. 

The water area of the habitat should be large enough to allow the tortoise to soak in it if it wishes – it must also be shallow enough to protect from drowning. Cypress mulch is the indoor substrate of choice for this species due to its humidity retention characteristics which in turn leads to good scute and skin health.

In one corner of the environment a 100W spot lamp should be positioned to provide artificial basking facilities. This should be positioned to provide a basking spot of 90 degrees F (32 degrees C) or so in that section of the habitat.  The habitat should also be equipped with a full spectrum fluorescent light to provide for UVB. A UVB source is necessary for Vitamin D3 syntheses (needed in calcium metabolism) If preferred to this lighting arrangement a Mercury vapour bulb may be used that fulfils all requirements. There should be a hide box located in the corner away from the basking spot to allow the animal a cool dim retreat. 

OUTDOOR HOUSING – Predator proof outdoor habitats offer many advantages over indoor accommodations and should seriously be considered as an option during warm weather.   Overall, this species does best in naturally humid climates outdoors.   If your area is not naturally humid, water timers and a misting/sprinkler system can be utilized to artificially create one.  Some areas of the habitat should be heavily planted to allow the Red-foot a cool dim retreat.  Provision of a wet muddy area for wallowing will also be appreciated by your tortoise. Redfoots take readily to using a hutch or doghouse-like artificial retreat.  In areas with cool nights a thermostatically controlled ceramic heater in such a retreat will provide the tortoise with an area that remains above 60 degrees F (16 C)     

DIET – Red-foots are omnivorous, consuming both animal and plant material in the wild.  In captivity this may be duplicated by feeding a minimal amount of low fat dog food or whole meat product once every couple weeks or so.  Meat should not be fed as a part of the daily diet.  Occasional earthworms may be fed as well. 

The diet offered should consist of:  

•        Leafy greens (dandelions, clover, endive etc.)  
•        Fruits
•        OCCASIONAL meat based protein. 

Diets rich in meats are invariably high in phosphates and low in calcium. This can cause serious problems for tortoises that need high levels of calcium for healthy bone and carapace development. Additional calcium supplementation is therefore absolutely essential. For proper growth as well as egg production, powdered calcium can be sprinkled on all foods once a week to help meet these requirements.  It is suggested that you use calcium supplemented with vitamin D3 if the animal is being maintained indoors and calcium without D3 if it is outdoors. Provision of a cuttlefish bone, which can be gnawed if required, is also recommended. The substrate of choice is cypress mulch or something possessing the same humidity holding properties in order to keep their shells/skin from drying out in captive conditions. In outdoor pens in areas of high sand content, food should not be placed directly on sandy soil. Sand can build up in the tortoise’s Gastro Iintestinal tract leading to possible impaction and even death.  A completely separate sand-free area in the habitat should be utilized to feed. 

This species does not hibernate in nature.  Facilities must be provided for the continued health and well being of the tortoise indoors in cooler (non tropical) climates.  

For more information try the Tortoise Protection Group Care sheet.

Join the Tortoise Trust Forum

John

ValueAquatics     Exo Terra Compact Top Canopies

The Exo Terra compact Canopies for their Glass terrariums, they fit snugly onto mesh tops and can take a combination of low wattage bulbs depending on what reptile that you have.  

The canopies come with a built in reflector to give maximum lighting effect directing the light downwards.

You can mix and match the lights to suit the animal and or terrarium setup, the canopies take bulbs up to a maximum of 26w / bulb. They will take Exo Terra Repti Glo compacts PT2186 / 22187 / 2888 / 2189 / 2190 /2191.

Arcadia D3 Compact Reptile Lamp 23w.

Incandescent bulbs Exo Terra Sun Glo PT2100, PT2102. These will raise the ambient air temperature inside the terrarium.

Exo Terra Night Glo PT2120, PT2102.

Any slim fitting, screw fitting bulb including the energy savers up to 26w.

Compact Fluorescent Terrarium Canopy

• Easy to install
• Built in reflector

Mix and match fluorescent compacts and low wattage incandescent lights (screw fitting up to 26w)

John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet     Equipment for a Mediterranean Tortoise

Indoors Housing

Tortoise Table 48” available in Beech, vivariums should not be used to keep tortoise in as they require a good circulation of air and a good day night temperature gradient. Otherwise long term respiratory problems can occur.

Outdoors Housing

During warm weather All Tortoise love being outdoors, use either the Apex Shelter and run or the Square rabbit/guinea pig run. Tortoise love digging so some plastic mesh chicken wire underneath the runs.

Use Tortoise Table 48” available in Beech or Oak, vivariums should not be used to keep tortoise in as they require a good circulation of air and a good day night temperature gradient. Otherwise long term respiratory problems can occur. 

Lighting/Heating

The best lighting for a tortoise is one that gives both heat and the required UVA and UVB. Use a PT2192 Exo-Terra Sola-Glo sun lamp125Watt. These Bulbs are designed to give both heat and UV to your animals. Plus an Exo Terra Glo Light 10” PT2056

We recommend two thermometers PT-2465 place one at each end to show the cool temperature and hot end temperatures to indicate that there is a thermal gradient.

Substrate

Best substrate is Loamy compost and playpen sand 1:1

Décor

Use a PT-2851 Reptile Hide Out Cave or a Tortoise Hut Large. For drinking water use a Tortoise pool Medium to Large for Adults. Plastic plants are not good as the tortoise WILL try to eat them. A few Rocks and Branches are good as they love climbing over things and exploring.

Care of hatchling Mediterranean tortoises

These include:

Greek Spurthigh Tortoise (Testudo graeca)

Distribution

They are found in southern Spain, Eastern Europe, Northern Africa, and parts of Asia especially the Middle East. They are found in a variety of environments from seashore dunes to rocky mountain steppes but usually in very hot, dry and arid regions with high summer temperatures. They inhabit areas of sparse vegetation where they browse on grass and plant growth.

Hermans Tortoise (Testudo hermanni)

Distribution

Mediterranean like France, Spain, Italy, the former Yugoslavia, Turkey, Greece and northern Africa.

Horsefields Tortoise (Testudo horsfieldii)

Does not require any paperwork. Although this is not a Mediterranean Tortoise the care is the same.

Distribution

East of the Caspian Sea, in deserts and mountains from Iran to Pakistan. Habitat:  Open, karstic (limestone) regions with dry, sandy, and loamy soil.  

Marginated Tortoise (Testudo marginata)

Distribution

Found only in parts of Greece, south of Mount Olympus and sometimes in Tuscany and Sardinia. The Marginated Tortoise lives in more mountainous regions. It can be found in elevations as high as 1,600 m (5,250 feet). The tortoise should come with a yellow licence called an article 10 from the DEFRA

CARE

The actual conditions required by hatchling tortoises are much the same as those required for their adult counterparts. Obviously in the wild they survive with the same conditions. However due to their size and metabolic systems they are much more vulnerable to outside influences.

Because of their size they are much more susceptible to predation particularly in captivity as their range of hidey holes is much more limited and our other normal family pets are often free to roam in the same area. Another problem with their size is that, if they do find a good hidey hole then the new owner will be hard pushed to find their baby tortoises. Surprisingly adult tortoises are also capable of hiding very well; it is amazing how hard it can be to find a 12 inch long tortoise in the dusk on a lawned area with just a few plants around the edge.

The other problem with size is that they are much more susceptible to temperature or environment problems, the ideal temperature for a tortoise to maintain its body temperature around (apart from during hibernation) is 30°C, to attain this background temperature of about 18°C plus basking facilities are required.

The problem with the baby tortoises’ metabolic system is that it is capable of converting very small quantities of low protein food into an excessive growth rate, lack of the correct vitamins and conditions are capable of causing a baby to become malformed or die very quickly. To much food – even the right food can cause a tortoise to grow too quickly and become bumpy, and damage internal organs very quickly, again leading to a premature death for your tortoise.

Because of these problems it is recommended that a baby tortoise be fed on very small quantities of totally natural food (weeds to the uninitiated) with additional calcium added to every meal and weekly vitamin supplements added. Very careful monitoring of growth should be made – weekly weighing, measuring and visual inspection should be made.

If a baby tortoise develops ANY bumpiness then the volume of food it is consuming should be cut back. Daily feeding is not necessary to keep your baby tortoise healthy, in fact daily feeding is more likely to cause your baby tortoise problems than irregular feeding (i.e. every three or even four days) – where they come from suitable food is not abundant throughout the summer months.

Most experts suggest that even baby tortoises should be hibernated right from their first winter, (most agree a short hibernation 6-8 weeks is ideal) this should be preceded by a starvation period of approx 2-3 weeks in order to clear the stomach contents. Weight should be checked on a regular basis prior to and during hibernation, any drastic (above 5%) loss should trigger the responsible owner to wake the tortoise and over winter it.

If natural foods are not available then the favoured substitutes are romaine lettuce, kale, spring greens, watercress and similar high fibre, low protein foods – no individual dietary constituent should be concentrated on, variety is of utmost importance. Tomatoes, Iceberg lettuce, cucumber and fruit should NOT be given except as very occasional treats. All cultivated foods that are used should be double dosed with calcium supplements to try to avoid any calcium deficiencies; extra vigilance is needed when an un-natural diet is supplied.

HOUSING Indoors

For its safety a baby tortoise should always be provided with a Tortoise table.

UVB Lighting – ‘natural’ light is needed to encourage calcium absorption.

Basking Lamp – a simple spot light can be used.

Background temperature of at least 17°C (if indoors in a centrally heated house room temperature should be ok)

Hiding places such as half plant pots, cork, caves.

Sensible substrate – newspaper good for newly acquired specimens, not very natural though, and should be replaced with a multi substrate terrain including soil, sand, rocks, live plants etc when practical.

A shallow water dish that the tortoises can easily climb in and out of.

A source of calcium should be ALWAYS available – e.g. cuttlefish bone, Calcium powder.

HOUSING Outdoors

On hot days even baby tortoises can be allowed outside, care must be taken to protect your charge from both adverse weather, and predation.

To achieve this an equivalent of a rabbit run can be used, the construction should be such that the bottom three inches are solid wood, the rest of the sides and the top can be fine (max ½ inch) netting, a shelter should be provided which is wind proof and ideally a basking area should be provided such as a glass covered area to concentrate the sunlight can achieve this, and/or a spot lamp mounted in the run. Your tortoise cannot share this run with any other animals, or any other species of tortoise.

Care should be taken with the set-up that the tortoise cannot burrow under any part of the housing and escape into the rest of your garden as either, you wont be able to find the tortoise, someone else will find your tortoise or a predator –like next doors cat – will find your tortoise.

YOU’RE TORTOISE AND THE LAW

In the UK (and Europe) there are a few laws relating to your baby tortoise.

If you got it from a reputable source then you will have a yellow licence called an article 10 from the DEFRA, which should state that the tortoise needs to be micro-chipped when it achieves a plastron length of 100mm, this law is designed to protect the wild populations from depletion by illegal taking from the wild, and may well save several wild populations.

The microchip is the size of a large cooked piece of rice and is implanted by using an absolutely massive needle; it is implanted in the rear left leg and may be one of several makes. Any vet can supply, and some can even fit these devices. The recommended types are Avid –designed for Bird use, and TROVAN- multi use (zoos often use them).

The process although it looks horrible does not seem to unduly stress the tortoises. And has the added benefit of making your tortoise identifiable should it ever become lost, or stolen. If you obtained your tortoise from someone other than a reputable breeder, and did not get paperwork for your tortoise then if you bought it, rather than being given it, both you and your supplier were breaking the law.

Two species of tortoise are exempt from paperwork to date in the UK these are the Horsefields and the Red Foot Tortoise.

Unlicensed tortoises can be GIVEN away, and with a donation letter it is possible for the new keeper to get breeding paperwork, but this will not allow the tortoise to be sold or traded.

If adult tortoises are kept and have been kept since prior to the trade restrictions being applied it is possible to get licenses from the DEFRA, using the correct procedures, forms etc.

Anyone breeding tortoises should make all efforts to obtain licences for their adult tortoises, and therefore licence any babies produced.

If you have tortoises which have come from the wild after the import restrictions were imposed or whose history can not be tracked then buying or selling of the tortoise should not be undertaken, again these can be given away, and the recipient can apply for breeding paperwork.

If conservation of the species is your concern then it may be worth donating the tortoise to a zoo, other organisation or private breeder who is actively breeding tortoises, although most organisations and zoos are not attempting to breed from the tortoises in their care, except for very rare varieties such as the Egyptian tortoise.

There are also a few ´rescue´ groups around the country who have licensed breeding groups of tortoises who may be able to give more advice on re-homing (http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/cheloniauk/Rehome.htm), acquiring mates for your tortoises, or accepting tortoises into their own collections for breeding on either loan or a permanent basis.

We recommend joining the Tortoise Trust Forum

John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet                           Equipment for keeping Asiatic House Gecko

Terrarium

PT-2600 Exo Terra Glass Terrarium 30×30x30m (12×12x12”) WxDxH

For 2 or 3 lizards.  PT-2605 Exo Terra Glass Terrarium 45×45x45m (18×18x18”) WxDxH

Lighting for the PT-2600: Compact Terrarium Canopy PT-2225 + Bulb PT-2189 Repto glo 5.0 compact new 26W

Lighting for the PT-2605: Compact Terrarium Canopy PT-2226 + 2 x PT-2189 Repto glo 5.0 compact new 26W

Heating: Royce Heat mat 7×12” will do on a Habistat mat stat

Substrate: Orchid Bark

Décor: Vines PT-3080 – PT-3082 Plants PT-3040 – 3052. Branches well secured, Pool Bark Effect small

Care

Asiatic House Gecko (Hemidactylus frenatus)

Description The Asiatic House Gecko is nocturnal, meaning they are active during the nigh time hours. The adhesive lamellae of these lizards do not cover the entire bottom of their feet, not extending to their toes.

Estimated Size: 6″

Location: Southeast Asia; spread too many tropical areas.

Captive Care Information

Food & Water Their main diet will consist of insets . Feed them a varying diet of crickets mealworms Locusts, waxworms and spiders , and spiders. If your Asiatic House Gecko is large enough, baby mice can also be offered sparingly. Make sure to dust the food items with a multi-vitamin supplement. Your Geckos will lick water that collects on the glass and items in the habitat. Some Asiatic House Geckos tend to lick water from a shallow dish as well.

Lighting, Temperature & Humidity

Keep the daytime temperature in the habitat from 73°F to 86°F. At night, drop this range down to 68°F to 77°F. Humidity levels should remain constant around 80%. Use full spectrum UVB lighting along with a heat source; either an incandescent light bulb   or ceramic heat emitter.

Housing

A tall habitat is required for Asiatic House Geckos, as they like to climb. The overall habitat does not need to be very large however, with a minimum of 12″ x 12″ by 16″ being sufficient. The bigger the better though. Fill the habitat with branches and leaves. Asiatic House Geckos will lay their eggs on the branches and other items, so make sure they are easy to remove (to transfer to an incubator). Use a Orchid bark as a substrate.

John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet    Equipment for a Vietnamese Blue Beauty

 Vivarium:

Vivarium AX48

Lighting: Lights for viewing only two Komodo ceramic fittings, one PT-2131 Neodymium spot bulb 40w + Bulb Guard

Heating: PT-2047 Ceramic Heat Emitter 150watt and ceramic guard. Pulse Habistat pulse proportional Thermostat.

Substrate: Orchid bark or Moss Aspen or Beach Chippings.

Décor: PT-2804 X-large water Dish, PT-3040 – PT3052 mix of 4 – 6+ plants, Vines 4 PT-3082 they need plenty of vines and branches to climb. Bark Cave large.

CARE

Distribution: Blue Beauties are colubrids native to the Vietnam-Thailand-Burma areas of Southeast Asia, from heavy forests to cultivated fields and mountainous areas.
Size: These are some of the longest rat snakes at typical lengths of 7 to 8 feet.
Lifespan: From 15 to 20 years.
Description: These are stunning snakes, long and slender with a blue-grey base colour offset with cream and darker blue markings in 4 different patterns that change as you move down the body. Black orbital stripes accentuate the eyes while the chin and underside remain a creamy white to yellow. Just after the head is a length of solid blue-grey before it changes to a diamond/ladder pattern of darker blue and cream along the back. Further down the pattern stretches into more vertical cream stripes which change yet again just after the vent into much darker smooth horizontal cream stripes along a much darker blue background.
Hatchlings are much more olive green in colour and grow bluer as they get older.
Behaviour: Blue Beauties have a reputation for being nervous snakes, but with regular handling they can be very docile and charming pets. They are diurnal and largely active during the day.
Difficulty Rating: Not a beginners snake as they can be aggressive.

 Enclosure: The minimum enclosure size for an adult Blue Beauty is a tall vivarium 48” x 24” x 24” (LxWxH). The snake will appreciate as much room to explore as you can give it so long as there are places to hide, climb, and lounge. A young snake or juvenile will need more hides for larger enclosures to reduce stress, but the smallest you should use for a hatchling should be 20L.

Keep only one snake per enclosure as they have been known to take snakes as part of their diet.
Substrate: Aspen is as good substrate as they love to burrow through it. I use dried bamboo leaves as it looks more natural for my natural vivarium. Newspaper and the like is nice and easy to clean but not as aesthetic. Coconut husk based substrates, Beech chips, are decorative substrates that are ideal for Blue Beauties. Cedar is deadly to reptiles, do not use Cedar bedding! Gravel, sand, mulch, and corn cob are not recommended for these snakes.
Temps: The ideal temperatures for Blue Beauties are 72-80 degrees. They do not seem bothered by temperature fluctuation but do not go bellow 70 F or above 85 F they go off their food and appear stressed above 85 F. One of my Blue Beauties goes off her food if it goes above 78 F.
Humidity/Water: Humidity does not appear to be a factor with Blue Beauties, Though adults like to soak in a water dish that is large enough for the snake to soak but not large enough for them to submerge their whole length at once. For my adults I use ceramic dog dishes.

So far there have not been any shedding problems. Do not use distilled or chlorinated water! Chlorine is dangerous to reptiles, and the distillation process removes all of the natural nutrients from water that animals need. If your tap water is chlorinated either use a de chlorinater obtainable from good reptile or aquatic shops, or let the water stand for 24 hours before use.
Furniture etc: Blue Beauties love to bask in high places such as on top of their hides or on ledges and cruise along branches over and under… The more you give them to climb, the more active they will be. Like all snakes, they do need at least one hide preferably elongated like cardboard tubes.

Feeding: Hatchlings and juveniles – 1 or 2 pink/ fuzzy mice to 1 or 2 pink/fuzzy rats every 7 days; Adults – 1 or 2 medium rats or 2 small rats every 7 days. I feed mine frozen/thawed. Like most snakes, judge based off the roundest part of the body. Your Beauty will typically sleep off their food for a day or two after. Do not handle your snake for about 3 days after feeding to avoid risk of regurgitation, this goes for any snake.
Choosing to feed in a separate container or in the enclosure is up to you. I’ve found that it depends on the snake. Some are more comfortable eating in the enclosure and being moved only stresses them, and others don’t care what you do so long as there is a rat in front of them. I tend to hide their food among the branches and make them hunt for it. It all depends on what works best for you and your snake.
Handling: These snakes need regular handling to stay tame, and like many colubrids are very fast active curious snakes.

Acclimation: New arrivals need at least a week or sometimes even two of just settling in, getting used to the new enclosure and routine, before they get handled. Just to get them off to a good start.

If they are newly imported wild snakes they will probably be dehydrated and full of worms and parasites.

To re-hydrate a snake put it in a large enough plastic container with a lid and some holes in the lid for air transference. Add ½” Luke warm water and half a can of a bottle of sports drink de-gassed or some critical care powder. Let the snake soak for half an hour. This allows the snake to drink and the skin to absorb some moisture and the sports drink adds essential salts EDTA and minerals that have been lost. Do this daily until the snake is fully re hydrated, usually 4-5 days.

Take too a reptile vet for worms and parasites.

John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet                 Equipment for keeping an  Egyptian Sand Gecko

Vivarium: PT-2600 The Exo Terra Glass Terrarium

Lighting: PT-2225 Compact Fluorescent Terrarium Canopy. PT-2187 Repto Glo 5.0 Compact NEW 26W

Heating:  Exo Terra Desert PT2030 Heat Mat. Habistat Temperature Thermostat. Thermometer.

Substrate: Desert Sand or Playpen Sand.

Décor: Rocks drift wood, Bark Cave-small

Vitamins. Reptivite or Nutrobal and Komodo Calcium. 

CARE

Egyptian Sand Gecko (Stenodactylus petrii)

Behavior: The sand gecko is a small, desert dwelling species reaching a total of just over 5 inches. It is a terrestrial gecko, meaning that it lacks the adhesive toe pads on their feet. Therefore, they cannot climb smooth surfaces, and prefers to stay close to the ground. This is where they do a lot of digging. They do not tunnel like some species, but instead make chambers under rocks and pieces of wood and bark. Stenos do vocalize, but not very often. Usually when they are mating or chirping to their partners.

Longevity: Stenos have a life expectancy of around 5 years. Most are imported, so likely to be older than you think they are. They are also likely to have parasites or other diseases and that will shorten their life if not looked after. There have not been any records of stenos and their life expectancies as far as I know, so 5 years is approximate and an educated guess.

The Sand Gecko for The Beginner: Although having more complicated needs than say a leopard or crested gecko, sand geckos are relatively easy to care for. For many reasons, the sand gecko is a good choice for moving up in experience. While an easy species to care for, you should definitely already have some experience with geckos. You must realize that these geckos do not like to be held, and spend most of their time hiding under cage décor. Parasites are often found on and in stenos and must be dealt with otherwise death may occur

Diet: Stenodactylus petrii are strictly insectivores in nature, eating appropriate sized crickets, and small mealworms. Smaller worms (phoenix and waxworms) can be fed, but not too often.

Supplying calcium is always important. You should dust all livefood with calcium except for once or twice a week. Once or twice a week use a vitamin supplement, with D3.

Water is not all too important. Spray the cage down every few days. This is the time to give them a gentle spray and let them lap up water off their bodies. These geckos come from the deserts of Egypt and Libya, so keep humidity down as low as possible although, as previously stated, a misting to keep them sand from caving in is a good idea.

They should be kept at 75°- 85°°F during day time and 65°- 75°F during night. They should be provided a basking spot with a basking heat lamp.

Males can be told apart from females by the presence of a hemipenal bulge and their more slender appearance.

John

ValueAquatics                       Reptile Caves and Hides

 Do we need to give our reptiles a cave or hide?

Do they actually serve any purpose?

These are some of the questions asked that seem easy to answer but can be very complex and not every reptile, amphibian and insect needs a cave but generally require a safe haven. 

They need a place to feel secure and safe; it may be anything from a large cave to living under a stone or rock as long as it gives security and the correct conditions like temperature and or humidity.

So yes they do need a hide is the easy answer but as we will see not all require the same it all depends on the animal and what it is being used for.

Snakes can be at home in anything from a hole in the ground to a branch in a tree. Generally if the snake is a ground dweller it will use anything from a hole in the ground to a tin can as long as it feels secure and safe, this means it can feel the sides touching on most sides. The snake cave can also help with giving the animal extra humidity that will help with shedding its skin.

ValueAquatics recommend having two hides in a Vivarium or Terrarium on at the warm end and one at the cooler end and when the snake is about to shed add some damp moss, damp kitchen paper or sponge pieces (natural sponge works best) and spay daily to keep the hide humidity up until the animal has shed.

Arboreal snakes will use a holes in trees even the forks in branches some just wrap around a branch. Know your animal’s needs.

Lizards are basically the same a hole under a stone or rock to the underside of a leaf in the trees.

The same for Amphibians and insects.

ValueAquatics have a large range of hides and caves to offer in all shapes, sizes and prices, unfortunately they can be very popular so It is always prudent to give an alternative if possible especially on the Bark effect types, the Exo Terra caves are nearly always in stock.

For a moss box I can highly recommend the Exo Terra snake Caves they even come with the moss and in three sizes small, Medium and large suitable for baby snakes to large Corn snakes, Milk and Cali king snakes.

The Exo Terra Reptile hide outs are ideal as a hide for the snake and comes in for sizes from small to extra large these are good for baby snakes to Corn, Rat snakes, Milk snakes, King snakes the smaller Boas and Pythons. Also suitable for lizards, amphibians and tarantulas.

The Exo Terra Reptile dens are novel if you keep some of the Gecko family that like caves or tight gaps in rocks etc. Especially Leopard Geckos seem to love them. The larger part goes on the glass front and the front part magnetically fits against the glass from the outside so that when you want to check the animal you simply lift off the front section and do not disturb the animal inside, especially when checking for eggs.

They are also useful for burrowing Tarantulas if buried at the front and tipped at an angle so that the entry hole is level with the top of the substrate. In two sizes medium and large.

Exo Terra Rock Outcrops are also good hides looking very natural and realistic rocks with multi entrance that can help reduce stress.

As with all the Exo Terra caves and hides they are extremely well made from resin in a natural form and colour so blending in with any type of décor and easily cleaned.

ValueAquatics also have the Royce range of caves and hides made of a very strong resin and made with a natural bark effect. There is a large range with these from natural looking bark caves to natural looking moss boxes that look like a tree stump. This range is also very popular and sometimes the smaller items can be sold out so best to put an alternative down if you can.

John