ValueAquatics Care Sheet     Equipment required for keeping Collard lizards

Vivarium: Minimum size 36” the VX36 the VX48 is better.

Lighting: PT2054 21cm Glow light clamp lamp

PT-2189 Repto Glo Compact new 26watt (UV Bulb)

Heating: Arcadia ADCH Reptile Ceramic Lamp holder & Bracket

PT-2133 Neodymium Daylight Basking spot lamp 100watt. Dimming thermostat.

16x 12” or 22 x 12” heat mat depending on vivarium size on a Habistat Mat Stat set at 75°F

We recommend two thermometers PT-2465 place one at each end to show the cool temperature and hot end temperatures to indicate that there is a heat gradient.

Décor Large and small rocks driftwood, PT-2853 large cave, Bark cave medium, Forked cave-bark effect best to have three or four caves throughout the vivarium in the hot cool and intermediate areas.

Substrate: Calci sand, desert sand.

CARE

Known in some areas as the “mountain boomer” because it was mistakenly though to emit a sound that echoed through the mountain valleys, it is the state lizard of Oklahoma. Collards are noted for their upright running on their hind legs, giving them the appearance of  a miniature T. rex (though this may rarely be seen in captivity as their enclosures do not provide enough room for such runs). They also have an interesting way of waving their tail, much like a cat, before grabbing at prey. They are capable of hard bites, but generally tame quickly. Collards are relatively long-lived lizards.

Description The prominent black bands behind the head give it its common and scientific names; body green and head may be bright yellow. Males have brightly coloured throats (blue, green or even orange) and may have blue patches on their belly, with generous sprinklings of white, yellow or red. Females are generally fawn or gray, taking on red or salmon-coloured speckling during breeding season.

Vivarium Collards require very large, very hot vivariums. A strong temperature gradient is essential for this rocky desert species, with a place for hot basking and a place for cooling off. You should provide higher basking areas, thus creating a vertical and horizontal gradient. Daytime 75-90°F, Basking 95-104°F; Night-time 70-85°F.

A substrate of sand and rocks will suit them. As they tend to be on the nervous side, hiding places are a must at different places along the gradient. (Note: tails can be dropped though it generally takes a hard tug for them to do so.)

UVB-producing fluorescent lights are essential for calcium metabolism in addition to the incandescent lighting used to provide heat.

Diet Collards are largely carnivorous, with the young started on crickets and freshly moulted meal worms, and larger specimens fed upon small rodents (pinks to small mice). Most will also take greens and vegetables (try high calcium and other nutritious foods such as Dandelions greens and flowers, water cress, figs, raspberries, papaya, and mango). As they tend to be aggressive feeders, they will cheerfully chomp any small vertebrate, including other lizards and snakes with which they reside whom they can overpower.

Reproduction. This oviparous species lays 1-12 (average 4-6) in the spring/early summer, hatching after about 10 week’s incubation.

Range: South-western USA to western coastal Mexico. Like desert and rocky areas.

John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet     Equipment required for keeping the Green Basilisk

Vivarium: Minimum size 48” the AX48 for one or a trio (1 male two females) Remember paint the inside of the vivarium with 3 Coats of Yacht varnish and seal round the joins when the varnish has dried. This is because of the humidity.

Lighting: Komodo Black Dome Ceramic Lamp holder 14cm. 14cm Dome Guard. PT-2189 Repto Glo Compact new 26watt (UV Bulb)

Heating: PT-2047 ceramic heat emitter 150watt. Ceramic Heater Guard. Pulse proportional thermostat. With day night setting.

We recommend two thermometers PT-2465 place one at each end to show the cool temperature and hot end temperatures to indicate that there is a heat gradient.

Décor: Strong branches well secured and vines PT-3080-PT-3082. Plenty of plants select from our range PT-3000 to PT- 3053.

A large water bowl needs to be kept in the vivarium and the water change daily as they defecate in the water. Something like a strong cat litter tray half filled, this also helps keep the humidity up.

Substrate: Moss or Orchid bark

CARE

Few could argue that one of the most spectacular lizards that can be part of one’s collection is the Green Basilisk (Basiliscus plumifrons). Its bright green colouring, large dorsal fin and caudal fin (found in the male) shows a Jurassic nostalgia to the observer.

Four known species of basilisk exist and are distributed from tropical Mexico down through Central America to northern South America.

Basiliscus vittatus, commonly known as the Brown or Striped Basilisk, is found throughout southern Mexico, parts of Central America, and into Colombia.

Basiliscus basiliscus, the Common Basilisk, is distributed throughout Central America and Colombia.

Basiliscus galeritus, the Western (or Red-headed) Basilisk, inhabits western Colombia and Ecuador up through Central America. Lastly, the Green Basilisk, Basiliscus plumifrons, is resident to Central American rain forests in Panama, Costa Rica, and Nicaragua.

You are most likely to encounter three of the four mentioned above: plumifrons, vittatus, and basiliscus. The males of these species grow to lengths of up to three feet–most of which is tail. Upon maturity, raised dorsal and caudal fins appear and give them an exotic and enchanting appearance. Males tend to be highly territorial and keeping multiple males in small vivariums is inadvisable. Fighting will almost always occur, resulting in dominance over weaker males which will not thrive under such stress. Males tend to exhibit head bobbing as both threat gesture and courtship behaviour to attract potential mates. Female basilisks are comparatively smaller and lack the ornamental fins of their male counterparts.

These lizards are arboreal and prefer locations near water. Being easily frightened, the lizard will drop from a branch overhanging a pool of water and scurry off to seek protection. Having specialized scales on the bottoms of the rear feet, basilisks are able to run across the surface of water for some distance before breaking the surface tension and swimming away hurriedly. They have been thus dubbed the “Jesus lizard” in parts of their native countries. In captivity, these lizards tend to maintain their somewhat skittish nature and do not make the best pets for those who wish to handle their pets frequently.

Housing & Maintenance

Basilisks generally do well in captivity, provided their minimum requirements are met. They can be kept in standard glass aquariums with locked screen covers. The tank size corresponds to the number of animals one wishes to maintain. I have kept a small group (two females and one male) in a 48” x 24” x 48” vivarium and has been successful with this type of setup. As mentioned earlier, only one male per enclosure should be housed with two or three females.

Large, sturdy climbing branches should be included as cage furniture to satisfy the arboreal nature of these animals and to mimic their natural environment. Potted plants such as Sansevieria, Pothos, Dracena, or Philodendron can also be added to enhance the beauty of the enclosure and add to the lizards´ sense of security.

Coming from the tropical zones of the Americas, basilisks need temperatures in the mid-70s up through the 80s. Relative humidity requirements vary among species and depend on the keeper’s goal. Humidity at about 60-70% is acceptable. This can be accomplished by a daily misting, or setting up a system with a timer to mist several times per day. As an example of changing humidity needs, in Basiliscus basiliscus, relative humidity is increased to upwards of 80% to induce breeding.

As with most captive reptiles or amphibians, full-spectrum lighting is necessary for the synthesis of vitamin D3 and utilization of calcium. Exposure to natural sunlight is beneficial. Remember that the sun’s ultraviolet light is filtered by the glass sides of the aquarium; the keeper can utilize an outdoor screen enclosure for brief periods of exposure.

Also, basilisks enjoy a basking site, and as with all cold blooded reptiles, these lizards regulate their body temperatures by moving back and forth between heat sources and shaded areas. Therefore, the keeper should provide open exposure to heat as well as to shaded areas to aid in thermoregulation. A ceramic heating element suspended above the cage does not emit light but is a good source of heat.

Diet

Basilisks enjoy a variety of insects and readily accept crickets, mealworms, Zoophobia, wax worms, grasshoppers, spiders, and an occasional pinkie mouse. Their food should be dusted with a fine powder vitamin supplement (Nutrobal or similar) and calcium supplement with vitamin D3 about once per week.

One may also give feeder crickets a vitamin-enriched diet. Rather than using potatoes to sustain large amounts of crickets, feed them oranges, shaved carrots, and rolled oats to gut-load the prey items; when the lizards dine on these crickets, the basilisks will enjoy the prey’s vitamin-enriched diet as well. Gut loading has been cited in much of the herpetocultural literature. As for pinkie mice, these can be offered once a week or less, and can also be dusted with a supplement.

Breeding

Successful breeding results from several factors: manipulation of humidity, temperature, and photoperiod, health of specimens to be bred, and careful incubation of eggs. For Basiliscus basiliscus, high relative humidity is necessary to stimulate breeding (about 80% seems to be what is needed). Increased temperature following a cooler dry period is also warranted. Temperatures in the mid- to upper 80s is optimal. A photoperiod of 12 hours light to 12 hours dark seems to be the best ratio. These guidelines can also be used for Basiliscus plumifrons and B. vittatus; however, in the latter a lower relative humidity will also be effective in inducing breeding behaviour.

One should only choose healthy specimens with ample fat stores in the tails. They should not appear emaciated, nor should their abdominal regions be flaccid to the touch. Weak specimens should be given adequate time to gain strength and weight before being subjected to breeding stresses.

After choosing healthy specimens and following the conditioning procedures above, one can begin to introduce females to the male. Separating females from males prior to breeding increases likelihood of successful copulations. The male demonstrate interest in his soon-to-be concubine by repeated head bobbing gestures followed by inching closer and closer to their targeted female. The female may respond positively by lowering her head and raising her tail. This behaviour further cues the male. After repeated head bobbing by the male and subsequent acceptance by the female, the male proceeds to seize the female by the flap of skin on the back of her head. Copulation may last as long as 20 minutes, but averages 10 minutes.

Multiple successful copulations increase the likelihood of viable fertile eggs. Gravid females plump up after a week or two, and by the third week begin looking for a suitable site to deposit the eggs. Prior to this, a mixture of damp peat moss, soil, and sand should be placed in the breeding tank as an egg-laying medium for gravid females. Females use a receptor system in their snouts to judge proper temperature and humidity of the deposit site; while burrowing, females frequently point their snouts into the burrow to check if these conditions are adequate.

Clutch sizes vary between the species. In Basiliscus basiliscus, clutches range from 8-18 eggs (averaging 12). In Basiliscus vittatus, maximums of 12 have been noted, but averages are lower (around five to seven eggs). Basiliscus plumifrons may lay up to 15-17 eggs per clutch. These lizards are known for their ability to lay multiple clutches per season, sometimes up to four or five. In general, clutch depends on the age, size, and health of the female.

Eggs should be removed and marked on their tops with a pencil in order to preserve their original orientation. The eggs are then transferred to a circulated air incubator and placed in a mixture of water and vermiculite (1:1 by weight). Eggs should be placed about two-thirds down, with their tops slightly visible. A thin layer of damp sphagnum moss may be placed on top to increase humidity. Incubation temperatures should be maintained at around 84°F, with a high relative humidity, especially during the first four weeks.

Hatching occurs at around eight to ten weeks and occurs over one to two days. Hatchlings emerge from the leathery eggs by way of their egg tooth, which later drops off. Young basilisks should be left in the incubator until the yolk sac is absorbed. After this, they can be placed in a separate tank which is set up similar to their parent’s enclosure, and reared on small one- to two-week-old crickets and wax worms.

They reach sexual maturity within 18-24 months. However, fighting among males may be observed as early as five months, and males should be separated at this time. Hatchlings have high calcium requirements and should be offered calcium- and vitamin-enriched insects often. Providing clean water regularly is also a must.

Diseases & Disorders

In captivity, basilisks are subject to a variety of diseases that are common to captive-raised reptiles. Frequently, one may note that the tips of the snout are abraded on certain specimens. This is caused by continual rubbing against the tank’s barrier. In general, basilisks are unaware of the glass or screen that surrounds them and therefore try to move forward in a vain effort. While it can be treated easily, advanced cases of rostral sores can result in complications, including severe infection and subsequent death.

 Another commonly seen disorder occurs in hatchlings and adults who do not have adequate ultraviolet light, or who lack calcium or vitamin D3. Metabolic bone disease is characterized by bone deformities and softening of bone tissue and eventual death if untreated. Some deformities may not clear up after treatment so early intervention is essential.

 Stomatitis, or mouth rot, is seen in many reptiles. Caused by bacteria which form in and around the jaw line, it can be treated by a veterinarian with topical antibiotics. Specimens who suffer from Stomatitis often go off-feed and become weak and lose weight. Regular checking of the oral cavity can curtail advanced stages of the disease. The oral cavity should appear pink and healthy. Any caseous matter or spongy masses could be a sign of Stomatitis and the animal should be taken to a veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment.

 External parasites such as ticks or mites may plague some specimens, especially imports. Ticks feed off a host be drawing blood and nutrients which would otherwise go towards the growth and repair of the host’s cells and body. Carefully remove the ticks by using a pair of sterile tweezers or forceps to gently pull the parasite from the basilisk’s body. Betadine solution can be applied to decrease risk of infection.

 Some basilisks can also harbour internal parasites such as protozoa and nematodes. Imports tend to be at greater risk of parasite infestation, but captive specimens exposed to parasites may also become infested. Characterized by loose, runny stools and weight loss, parasitic infestation can be diagnosed via faecal sample examination by a veterinarian and treated accordingly.

 While basilisks are susceptible to these problems, if treated early they can recover and be enjoyed by the advanced hobbyist. Green and Brown Basilisks especially make beautiful additions to a collection. Trends indicate that captive-bred specimens will continue to be available through private breeders.

 Although fairly plentiful in the wild, encroachment on their habitat coupled with deforestation may impact the future of this species. It is the author’s hope that this article will stimulate more interest in such wonderful and beautiful reptiles

John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet     Equipment for a Blue Tongue

Vivarium: VX36 for an adult in Beech, Oak, Walnut and Black as a special offer when available.

Lights: For the VX36 2 x Arcadia ADCH Reptile ceramic lamp holders & bracket. With PT-2133 Sun Glo basking spot lamp

100watt and PT-2189 Repto Glo 10.0 compact new 26watt.

Heating: As above and use a Royce Heat Mat 16”x12” .Place under the basking area and leave running 24/7 on a mat stat thermostat set at 75F. This gives some background heating for nigh time.

Two thermometers PT-2465 place one at each end to show the cool temperature and hot end temperatures to indicate that there is a heat gradient.

Décor: Use a PT-2803 Exo Terra Water Dish Large. The water bowl should be kept at the cool end to avoid excessive humidity. Use a PT-2813 Exo Terra Feeding Dish X Large for more than one Blue Tongue and a PT-2811 Exo Terra Feeding Dish Medium for one. Use the bowl to feed their greens and vegetables. Use a large piece of Cork bark tube as a hide out or a PT-2852 hideout cave for a baby Blue Tongues to sleep in. Bog wood and drift wood are good. A large basking rock such as a large piece of sandstone placed under the basking spot light is a good addition. This holds the heat and helps them to digest the food properly. Artificial plants. PT-3000-3052 these are just for decoration and make the vivarium looks more natural. Choose a selection of plants and vines to give your Vivarium that finished look.

Substrate: Orchid bark, Beech chips or Aspen.
 

CARE

NATIVE TO:

Australia, Tasmania, and New Guinea. The different species found variously in open woodlands, at the margins of forest and field, semi-deserts. They are heavily built, with broad bodies set on small legs with delicate toes. The broad, blunt triangular head typical of skinks. They get their common name from the deep, berry blue tongue vividly offset against the deep pink interior of their mouth.

SPECIES:

Tiliqa occipitalis – Western Blue Tongued Skink

Likes dry habitats, compact animal with short tail-growing to 50 cm. / 19.5 in. Compact with short tail; reddish brown with light cross banding. Likes berries and spiders. Produces 5-10 live young.

T. scincoides – Common/Eastern Blue-Tongued Skink

Likes semi-desert to agricultural areas. Grows to 60 cm. /23.5 in. (average 45 cm. /17.5 in.). May be different subspecies since external differences are noted. Feeds on small animals, plant material. Often found in suburban gardens. Hardy in captivity. Averages 6-12 live young.

T. s. intermedia – Northern Blue Tongued Skink

Likes tropical/savannah woodlands -growing to 60 cm. /23.5 in. Produces 5-20 live young. The best choice for handable pets.

T. nigrolutea – Blotched Blue Tongued Skink

Also known as Black and Yellow Blue-tongued. Southern Australia and Tasmania. Brown/black with yellowish, irregularly spotted and striped pattern. Grows to 60 cm. /23.5 in. Omnivorous. Produces 4-10 live young. Often crosses with T. scincoides, offspring are not sterile.

T. s. mustifaciata – Central Blue-Tongued Skink

Found in desert and tropical environments. Grows to 40-45 cm./15.5-17.5 in., feeds on wildflowers, small vertebrates, and insects. Produces 2-5 live young.

T. s. gigas – New Guinea Blue Tongue Skink – This skink is gray or gray brown with irregular narrow bands of dark brown across the back.

T. gerrandii – Australian PINK tongued skink

Found in New South Wales, Eastern Australia. Grows to 40-45 cm. / 15.5-17.5 in. This skink lives in a wetter forest habitat than the other Australian Skinks, is nocturnal in warm weather and diurnal in cold and feeds almost exclusively on snails and slugs. Produces 12-25 live young in summer.

Housing:

Hatchlings can be kept in 24” vivarium and adults require at least 36” vivarium. Substrate can be aspen shavings or Beech Chippings play pen sand for adults. For youngsters to yearlings the best substrate is newspaper or kitchen roll paper to guard against impaction. They will require a hide box to sleep in and as a moist box when shedding. They are ground dwellers and so do not need tall branches or rocks for climbing. They CAN climb; however, so top-opening tanks do need to be securely fastened. One area of slightly damp substrate should be kept, or a humidity retreat box (into which they can freely climb in and out, filled with damp sphagnum moss, for use during shedding periods).

Water:

They should have a bowl of water available at all times. They may defecate in it so it should be checked regularly. The water bowl should be big enough for them to climb easily in and out of as it will be used for bathing as well as drinking.

Light:

Regular exposure to UVB wavelengths is strongly recommended. This can be furnished by close proximity to an Exo Terra UV fluorescent light. They do not tolerate very high temperatures and can easily become prostrate by the build-up of heat in their enclosure.

Temperature:

The overall gradient should range from the mid 70s on the cool side to the mid 80s on the warm side. A slightly warmer basking area, with temps into the low 90s, may also be provided during the day. A Heat mat I the vivarium  at one end, and a radiant heat source overhead at the same end, will generally be all that is required to establish the gradient. Cold winter weather may require additional heating or a stronger bulb if the room is a cold one. Temps should not be allowed to fall below 70° F at night on the cool side.

Diet:

Blue-tongue skinks are omnivores, consuming both plant and animal matter. Their diet should be 60% plant, 40% animal. Frozen mixed vegetables (carrots and peas mixture) can be ground in a food process and a calcium supplement added. This can be refrozen in serving sized blocks, or kept refrigerated for a week. Serve with a LOW FAT canned dog food. Mealworms and pre killed baby mice (larger mice for adults) should be offered. A slightly more time consuming but very nutritious vegetable salad is 1/2 cup shredded raw green beans, 1/2 cup shredded winter or summer squash (not zucchini) or carrots, 1/2 cup shredded raw parsnip, and 1/4 cup fruit.

Their favourite food are snails, if you feed them snails from the garden make sure they have not come into contact with slug pellets or slug bait. I keep slugs for a week in boxes and feed with bramble leaves before feeding them.

Handling:

Blue-tongue skinks are very docile, curious lizards. They tame easily and are handleable by small children. They do develop claws, and while they do not particularly scratch, it can be startling and scary to someone who is nervous holding them, so always supervise people closely when first handing the lizard to them. Like many omnivorous and carnivorous lizards, blue-tongues find that wriggling human fingers look an awful lot like small wriggling mice…and may try to eat one if they are hungry. As with all such reptiles, it is best to wash your hands before handling them if you have been handling anything they normally eat.

 John

 ValueAquatics Care Sheet     Equipment for a Dwarf Sungazer

 Vivarium: PT-2605 Exo Terra Terrarium (18” x 18” x 18”) is good for Two Sungazers 

Lighting: Exo Terra Dual canopy PT-2230.  2 X  PT-2169 Repti Glo 10.0 15” 14w tubes. 2 x Sun Glo Halogen Basking Spots 35w.

Heating: Royce Heat Mat 12 x 16”. Habistat Mat Stat set at 28°C. Thermometer.

Substrate: Desert or playpen sand.

Décor: Medium water bowl PT-2802. Bark  Cave or similar. Two or three plants from our selection PT-3000-3052

Supplements: Calcium and Nutrobal or similar.

CARE

Cordlyus tropidosternum. Dwarf Sungazer, Girdled Lizard, East African Spiny-tailed Lizard.

Size. 6″ – 9″

Lifespan. 7-12 years

Distribution

Extends along the East African coast Kenya south to Central Mozambique and West to the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Diet

Their natural diet is winged termites, but it is little bit difficult to get termites in captivity. They also feed on moths and spiders. Instead you can feed them with live crickets, locusts and other insects. Before feeding the lizards with the insects they should be dusted with Calcium powder four times a week and twice with a vitamin powder such as Nutrobal or similar. They also need UV light such as Repti light 10 compact. You will need to have a little water bowl in their terrarium so they can drink and take a bath when they are shedding their skin.

Feeding is not a problem. They eat all you give them, crickets, locusts, wax worms, mealworms, spiders. Every other day or so offer some greens such as Dandelion leaves or salad mixed leaves, not iceberg lettuce, spinach or any of the cabbage family.

Add plenty of rocks bog wood for them to climb amongst and for hiding and sleeping in.

Substrate I find the best substrate is playpen sand, Eco Earth, or Coir.

These are shy lizards and hate being picked up.

Temperature Basking spot 33-35°C and a cool side at around 20°C is suitable for them.
Sexing

It can take a little patience to sex these lizards? Look at the shape of the body, the females have nice curves more rounded and thinner just above the vent before the tail. The male looks more robust in the body and broader between the rear legs or vent area.

Breeding

Breeding requires brumation/hibernation for 6-8 weeks at 10-15°C. Before brumation is started food should be slowly cut down until you have stopped feeding. This will give them time to digest the food and then slow down their metabolism if they are feed while they are about to brumate or while they are brumating
food will rot inside them causing health problems or death. After the 6-8 weeks brumation slowly increase the temperature and as they become more active start feeding again. Put some breeding boxes in the vivarium and keep checking for eggs. Incubate the eggs as you would for leopard geckos.

John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet     Set up for Garter & Ribbon Snakes

Terrarium: Exo Terra Vivarium PT-2610 60×45x45m. (WxDxH)

Lighting: PT-2226 Compact Fluorescent Terrarium Canopy. 2 x PT-2190 Repto Glo 2.0 compact new 13watt and 1 x PT-2102 Neodymium Daylight bulb 25w.

Heating: Royce Heat Mat 10×12”.   Habitat Mat Stat Thermostat

Décor:  Bark Effect Corner pool medium.  Bark Cave Medium. Artificial plants 2 or 3 medium.

Substrate: Orchid Bark with a covering of moss.

Vitamins: Dust food with Nutrobal or similar Vitamin Supplement.

 Care

Common Name: Garter, Ribbon, Water Snakes

Latin name: Thamnophis spp.

Native to: North and Central America

Size: Up to three feet in length

Life span: This group of snakes can live for 10 years or more with proper care.

General appearance: All members of the genus Thamnophis are slender-bodied snakes and are usually striped with a solid or chequered body. Males generally have a thicker base of the tail than females.

Housing requirements:

 Enclosure: Most single snakes can be housed in a 10-gallon or 20-gallon tank with a secured screen top depending on the size of the snake. It is important that the enclosure is escape-proof as these snakes excel at escaping from their enclosures.

Temperature: Like most snakes, members of Thamnophis like a temperature gradient. The cool end on the enclosure should be around 70° F with a basking spot of around 84° F. At night the basking area should be turned off.

Heat/Light: It has not been proven whether these snakes require UV light or not, though they should be provided with an appropriate photoperiod. Basking areas can be achieved by using incandescent basking bulbs, infrared heat bulbs or ceramic emitters. Timers and thermostats can be used to control photoperiods and temperatures in the enclosure.

Substrate: A variety of substrates can be utilized for these snakes. Newspaper or paper towels can be used for young snakes then after a year use orchid bark and moss.

Environment: A suitably large enough pool should be provided for the snake to allow it to swim. A hide box should also be provided. Branches for climbing can also be provided,

Diet: These snakes eat a varied diet. Items such as earthworms, red worms, and other insects will usually be readily accepted. Fish such as guppies, sand eels and Lance fish can also be provided in the pool along with strips of trout. An exclusive diet of just fish is not nutritionally complete and should be fed with other prey items such as earthworms. Many specimens can also be converted to appropriate sized mice, offer pinkie/fuzzy mice that have been rubbed with fish to scent them.

Maintenance: Fresh water should be offered daily. If using newspaper then clean as needed. Wood shavings or a soil mix should be spot cleaned as needed. Periodically, the enclosure should be disinfected. A 5% bleach solution makes an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to rinse the enclosure thoroughly after disinfecting. As always, be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling your snake or any cage accessories.

Dust the food in a vitamin supplement every other feed.

 John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet     Equipment for a Florida King snake

Vivarium: Viv-Exotic 36”  VX36 these come in a variety of colours, Oak, Beech, Walnut, Silver. Black when on special offer

Lighting:  For viewing only so use an ACR18 Arcadia IP64 Dry Vivarium Controller 18Watt.

PT-2151 Exo Terra Repti Glo 2 (24”) 20watt

Heating: Use a Microclimate AHS 150

Or a Royce Heat Mat 12 x 16 inches this should be left on 24/7 as a background heat source. Combine this with a Habistat mat stat Thermostat set at 75-85 deg., Fahrenheit. Use a PT-2465 Exo-Terra Dial Thermometer or PT-2472 Digital Thermometer to monitor the Vivarium temperature. Place the heat mat at one end of the Vivarium giving a hot end and cool end. NOTE: YOU ONLY NEED THE thermostat FOR THE HEATMAT NOT THE AHS.

Substrate: Aspen or beach chippings are recommended.

Décor: Put logs, branches and/or artificial plants in the vivarium which will give the snake something to climb on, this will also make your vivarium look more natural. Use a PT-2851 Reptile Hideout Cave Small for youngsters and a PT-2845 or PT-2847 for adults. A Water Bowl PT-2804 will also be required and a selection of artificial plants, choose a selection from our range to give your vivarium that finished look, PT-3000 to PT-3052.

Care

Common Name: Florida King Snake

Scientific Name: Lampropeltis getula floridana

Distribution: Florida, U.S.A.

Size: 4’ – 5’

Natural habitat

Inhabits tropical and semi-tropical grassland habitats near ponds and swampy regions of Florida.

Behaviour

Most will become tame with regular handling. Provide some dark hiding places when keeping this species in captivity.

Oldest recorded age was 21 years.

Captive environment

Provide a basking area with access to a cooler area. Provide several climbing areas on branches, logs, & plants.

Temperature

Day temperature should have a gradient from 75 to 85°F. Maintain night temperature range between 72-78°F. Use a heat mat on a thermostat or an AHS heating system 24-hour heat.

Humidity

This species requires moderate levels of humidity.

Water requirements

Provide a large fairly deep bowl for drinking and soaking.

Nutritional requirements

This species is a carnivore (meat eater) so feed the appropriate sized rodents (mice, small rats) nothing that is more than 1½ times the snakes widest girth. Enjoys feeding on small lizards and snakes as well as amphibians and birds.

John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet     Equipment for an Amur Rat snake

Vivarium:  AX36

Lighting: Komodo Ceramic Fitting & PT-2131 spot Neodymium bulb 40w spot bulb Guard

Heating: PT-2047 Ceramic Heat Emitter 150watt and ceramic guard. Pulse proportional Thermostat.

Substrate: Aspen or Beech chips

Décor: PT-2804 X-large water Dish, PT-3040 – PT3052 mix of 4-6+ plants, Vines 4 PT-3082 they need plenty of vines and branches to climb. Bark Cave large. 

CARE

Amur Rat snake (Elaphe schrenkii anomala)

Common names: Amur at Snake, Korean Rat Snake and Russian Rat snake (reputed to be the same as E.schrenki)

Description:

The Amur Rat snake has often been called the friendliest of large snakes. Also known as the Korean or Amur Rat snake, this snake is very curious and personable, and makes a great pet for those who love reptiles.

Native to wetlands and farmlands where small rodents abound, the Amur is semi-arboreal, and this means that you should equip its terrarium with lots of sturdy branches and shelves so the large snake can amuse itself and exercise. This snake’s large size also dictates a very large terrarium. A 30-gallon long tank will do quite nicely for an adult. Amur Rat snakes love to soak, so be sure a bowl of water is present in the terrarium at all times. The Amur Rat snake is native to a cold climate, with short springs and summers. In the wild, the Amur Rat snake breeds in the spring and incubates the eggs for about two months. This means the Amur Rat snake develops very quickly before hatching and grows quickly once out of the egg. Amur Rat snakes hatch in the warmer months, and if you want to breed them they need to be hibernated for two months. It has been noted that Amur Rat snakes breed in a very similar fashion to King snakes. The Amur Rat snake likes smaller food, like pinkie or fuzzy mice and rats. They are diurnal and captive-bred specimens typically do not bite. All in all, the Amur Rat snake is very easy to keep, and because of its amiable and curious nature, makes a very appealing pet.

Amur Rat snakes have stocky, thick bodies and are very large, growing from six to eight feet in captivity. The heads are well defined and they have a divided anal plate. Juvenile Amur Rat snakes are brown or tan with cross bands of a lighter shade of brown or gray. As adults, Amur Rat snakes are generally black with yellow or cream stripes.

Amur Rat snakes are native to Russia, especially in the areas around the River Amur, in addition to much of Korea, China, and Mongolia. They prefer wetlands but are found in all sorts of habitats, from sparsely vegetated areas to farmland and even rocky areas or forests of shrubs.

 Size: 70 inches

 Breeding and Propagation:

The Amur Rat snake generally breeds in the spring, after having hibernated for one to two months, and this will have to be simulated to encourage these snakes to breed in captivity. The procedure is similar to that used in breeding King snakes. The Amur Rat snake lays 6 to 14 eggs. After 40 to 60 days of incubation, the eggs will hatch and the young Amu Rat snakes will grow very quickly.

 John

Valueaquatics Care Sheet                                       Equipment for a Russian Rat Snake.

Vivarium:

Viv-Exotic VX48 available in Beeck, Oak, Walnut and Black when available as a special offer. 

Lighting:

Arcadia light Controller/Ballast ACR30 24” 25/30watt. For viewing only and to give the snake. A proper photo period. Lights need to be on for approximately 8 hrs.

PT2151 Exo Terra Repti Glo 2.0(242)20W

Heating:

Royce Heat Mat 22 x 12 inches. To be placed on the rear wall or floor inside the vivarium.

Habistat mat stat Thermostat. To insure that the heat mat does not overheat.

Should be set at 75°F for night time running. When the lights are on the temp., should be 75Deg.F – 85Deg. F at the hot end and roughly 75deg.F at the cool end. At night when the lights are off 70-75°F

Alternately The Microclimate AHS250 which does away with the heat mat and thermostat.

Substrate:

For baby snakes we recommend kitchen paper, wallpaper backing paper or newspaper for the first six months. As they can get compaction of the gut by ingesting substrates, like Aspen, corn cob, beach chips etc.

After six months old the best substrates are Aspen or beach chips.    

Décor

These are of personal taste and there are many different water bowls caves and hides available under vivarium hide outs.

PT-2803 Exo Terra Water Dish Large for adults and PT-2801 Exo Terra Water Dish small for hatchlings. The water bowl should be kept at the cool end to avoid excessive humidity and the water changed daily as they often defecate in the water.

Hides/Caves PT-2845 small for hatchlings up to PT-2847 for adults. Branches (Bog wood etc.)Branches need to be strong and sturdy. Fruit tree branches are good but not cherry as it is poisonous as are conifer branches. Scrub them clean with hot soapy water, rinse and allow to dry. Bog wood and drift wood are good additions Along with PT-3080-3082 vines.

Two thermometers PT-2465 one at each end to show the cool temperature and one at the hot end to show that there is a heat gradient.

Artificial plants. PT-300-3052 these are just for decoration and make the vivarium look more natural so two or three plants will look nice.

CARE 

Elaphe schrencki is a large and fairly powerful constrictor with an adult colouration of black with cream or yellow markings and underside. In the wild Elaphe schrencki can be found in Russia and much of Korea and China.

Longevity: 20 years +
Adult size: 180 cms (72inches) +

Housing: adults do best in a well ventilated vivarium measuring around 120cm (48 inches) in length, 60cm (24 inches) deep and 60cm (24 inches) high. These snakes are very active and will use all the room you can afford them. Hatchlings and younger snakes may be kept in a smaller vivarium.

Substrate: Kitchen paper towel, reptile carpet and even newspaper can all make suitable substrates along with a host of purpose made substrates currently available. Always check when buying substrate that it is suitable for use with snakes. When using any substrate, care should be taken to ensure there is no risk of substrate being ingested as this can lead to gut impaction. Remove all droppings and clean the vivarium on a regular basis to prevent disease.

Décor: Hides & shelters are essential. They prevent stress and allow your pet a safe haven from the outside world. There should be at least 2, one at the warm and one at the cool end of the vivarium. These snakes are semi arboreal and as long as they are fixed securely, sterilised logs, rocks and fake plants increase the surface area and make interesting climbing and resting places.

Heating: A temperature gradient from the warm end at 24°C (75°F) to cool areas at 21°C (70°F) is suitable. Night time temperatures should be around 21°C (70°F). A basking spot of 26-28°C (80-82°F) is often taken advantage of when the animal is approaching it shedding cycle. The heat source can be a ceramic heater or heat mat. Wire mesh guards should be fitted over any ceramic heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns. A thermostat is essential, to control the heat source within the vivarium and prevent you’re pet from becoming too hot or too cold.

Lighting: No additional lighting is required for this snake if the snake is housed in a room with natural lighting. Do not place the vivarium in direct sun light.

Water: Clean water must always be provided for the snake to drink from and bathe in. No specific humidity requirements but an occasional spray will be appreciated. These snakes adore water but do not require a humid vivarium.

Diet and Feeding: Adults will take mice, small rats, Chicks and Eggs once a week. Younger snakes will eat appropriately sized mice or baby rats. A food item should be no bigger than 1.5 times the width of the widest part of the snake’s body and after a meal a small bulge should be noticeable in the stomach of the snake.

Temperament: Generally extremely calm and placid snakes. Rarely show aggression and when they do it is accompanied by a very distinctive tail rattle warning.

Suitability as pet: These snakes make excellent pets but can get very large and have a surprising amount of strength. They are one of the most intelligent of the rat snakes showing surprising amounts of ingenuity in getting what they want.

John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet     Equipment for a Radiated Rat Snake

Vivarium:  AX48

Lighting: PT-2052 Glo Light reflector 14m.

PT-2110 sun Glo daylight Lamp 60w

Heating: Microclimate AHS250

Thermometers PT-2472 Digital Thermometer

 Substrate: Aspen

Décor: Branches, Vines PT-3080-PT-3082, Plants PT-3050-PT-3052

Water Bowl PT-2803 large or Corner Pool Bark effect large

Hide PT-2845-PT-2847 depending on size of snake.

CARE

Common Names: Radiated Rat snake, Copperhead Racer.

DISTRIBUTION: E.radiata has a large distribution over S.E. Asia, Indonesia, including Borneo, Malaysia North to Nepal and much of Southern China.

SIZE: Generally up to 60″ though they can grow a little larger (1.7 m)

SUBCAUDAL COUNT: 2 – 108

Husbandry: These are large and very active snakes and so require a large vivarium 4´ x 18 x 18 for an adult pair is adequate. There should be some branches as they enjoy climbing. The substrate can be any of the normal substrates that are used for reptiles Newspaper, Aspen, Bark chips etc. it is all a matter of aesthetics. A heat mat and a ceramic infrared heater should be placed a one end of the vivarium and connected to a thermostat. This will give a thermal gradient within the vivarium so that the snakes can move from one area to another so as to adjust their temperature. A large water dish can be placed partially over the heat mat area this will help give a humidity of 60 – 80% which E. radiata requires to stay healthy. A temperature range of 75 – 88°F (24-31°C). With a drop at night to the lower end 75°F (24°C).

Breeding: Elaphe radiata are sexually mature after 18 months.
A moss box should be placed into the vivarium just after the female’s pre laying shed, she will lay her eggs in the box two to five days after her shed. A moss box is made from a plastic box with a lid (large sandwich type box) that is large enough for the female and any eggs, a hole is cut into the lid so the snake can easily enter and exit. Into the box some damp sphagnum moss, vermiculite or peat should be added and sprayed daily to maintain a high humidity inside the moss box. The eggs should be taken and placed into another box into which a 2″ layer of damp vermiculite has been added and place into an incubator or cupboard at 80-82°F.
The eggs are laid approximately 45 days after mating and up to 11 eggs can be laid, though in my own snakes five to seven is more common. The eggs hatched from 65-69 days @ 28ºC (82ºF) When placing the eggs into the box of vermiculite make sure the eggs remain the same way up as they were laid by marking them with a fine marker pen. Snap on the lid and put a few small holes in the lid for gas transference as the eggs have to breathe. Weigh the whole box and keep a note of it, place the box into the incubator or cupboard and check the weight every four or five days if there is a drop in weight just spray the eggs to bring the box back up to weight.

Hatchlings: The young snakes are quite large 11-12″ keep them in small clear plastic sandwich boxes with some small holes in the ends, a piece of paper towelling is best for a substrate and a small container of water and leave until their first shed at this time they will be living off the absorbed yolk. After their first shed pinkie mice can be offered, they are usually taken greedily. They should be fed on pinkie mice twice a week till they are large enough to take fuzzy mice then weekly feeding can take place but I prefer to continue feeding twice weekly as these are very active and fast snakes.

 John

ValueAquatics

ValueAquatics Care Sheet     Equipment for keeping Uromastyx 

Vivarium:  VX36 vivarium for one, or VX48 depending on species.

Heating: Lighting I recommend a basking/UV lamp similar to Exo Terra Solar Glo Sun lamp 125Watt. This is left on 10-12 hours and simply turned off via a time switch. They do not require any heating at night as long as it does not o bellow 65deg. F.

We recommend two thermometers PT-2465 place one at each end to show the cool temperature and hot end temperatures to indicate that there is a heat gradient.

Substrate: youngsters up to 1 year kitchen, wall, backing or newspaper. Calci sand, desert sand or play pen sand.

Décor:  large food bowl.

Plenty of Caves and hides terra cotta drain pipes they love especially the ones with a 90deg., bend in, Blank one end off and then raise the open end on a rock at the cool end and put some straw in it as bedding.

Rocks, drift and bogwood.

Description of species. 

There are about seventeen species but some may well be sub species (ssp) within the genus and most are not generally available through the pet trade. So I will only mention those that are readily available.

All Uromastyx have a stocky build and a well-armoured tail which gives it its common name Spiny Tail Lizard. All of the species of Uromastyx have salt glands around their nostrils and it is not uncommon to see salt crystals build up around the nostrils.

Most commonly available species

Uromastyx acanthinurus: Grows to about 16” in length. It has a fairly wide colour range in individuals from green to yellow to bright orange and all shades in between. U. acanthinurus comes from North Africa and can be found in Libya, Morocco, Niger and Sudan.

Uromastyx aegyptius: This is the largest member of the genus and can get up to 30” long weighing several pounds.

Its colour can be variable but is generally dark to light brown sometimes tan.

U.aegyptius is found in Egypt, the Arabian Peninsula, Iran, Iraq and Israel.

Uromastyx benti: Common name Rainbow Uromastyx. Shows some sexual differences, males tend to have a more bluish body colour with white spots and the females are usually light brown or tan with reddish tails.

They grow to around 14”.

U. bentii comes from the Yemen and the Arabian Peninsular in general.

Uromastyx dispar:  Common name is the Sudan Uromastyx. They Grow to about 14-16”, their colour can vary from brown to orange-red or yellow.

They come from the Western Sahara Desert, Sudan.

This species occurs in Western Sahara desert,

Uromastyx maliensis is a ssp of U. dispar.

Uromastyx ocellatus: This species shows some sexual differences, the males having a bluish-green body or being green with orange and yellow blotches. The females have more subtle yellows and browns with less orange. They also grow to around 14” in length.

U. ocellatus comes from Egypt and the Middle East similar to U. aegyptius.

 Uromastyx ornatus: There is some confusion with this species some think it is the same as ocellatus and probably a ssp of U. dispar. The colouration size and geological distribution is the same.

 CARE

These are quite active lizards and require plenty of room ideally the vivarium should be four times larger than the Uromastyx. These lizards are all terrestrial

And so require more ground area than height.

For a 12” Uromastyx a 48” vivarium is advised.

Temperature: Coming from extremely arid desert areas they can tolerate extremes in day night temperatures. A basking temperature of  110° – 130° F is required with daytime temperatures of 85° – 95° F, the night-time temperature should be allowed to go down to 60° – 70° F.

Heat and Lighting: I have found the best type of heating and lighting is by using a Mercury vapour lamp as in the Exo Terra solar Glo as they give off a high level of UVB and heat in one lamp. As soon as I changed over from the conventional UVB tubes my animals showed greater colouring and were much more active and started to show courtship displays.

Placing a large rock under the lamp helps the Uromastyx giving it a warm rock to bath on and facilitating the digestion of its food.

Substrate: Use play pen sand or Calci sand. Do not use builder’s sand or sand off the beach.

Décor: Uromastyx are terrestrial and burrowers so do not require branches. They require plenty of rocky hiding places, like rockwork with plenty of nooks and crannies where they can squeeze into. This is easy to accomplish with the use of Aerated concrete blocks or Terracotta air bricks with some pieces of slate. I find that a terracotta Drain Junction with one end blanked off makes a great makeshift burrow for the Uromastyx, add some hay as bedding.

Diet: Uromastyx are mostly omnivores but will take insects if given the chance I give mine a couple of locusts once a week as a treat. The bulk of their diet should be vegetarian. Vegetables such as peas, beans, carrots and corn, leafy greens such as dandelion leaves and flowers, salad leaves, rocket, water cress, Kale, Squash, courgettes, mushrooms etc. They also love seeds so give them Millet that you get for cage birds, mixed bird seed (not many sunflower seeds as they contain a large amount of fat/oil), dried peas and beans. As these are desert animals water need not be added as they get all their water needs from their foods. In fact adding water to the vivarium can cause excessive humidity which will do more harm than good. My old female Uromastyx acanthinurus has never see water in 16 years and is extremely healthy and active.

Vitamins as in Nutrobal by Vetarc should be given twice a week and Calcium powder every day sprinkled on the food.

General notes:  The vivarium should be spot cleaned daily and the vivarium stripped down and cleaned with a vivarium cleaner like Arc-Klens or TAMODINE-E by Vetarc.

Breeding Uromastyx Mali. Breeding the other Uromastyx should be very similar.

Tips on Sexing Uromastyx. Mali Uromastyx generally must be longer than 25cm (10”) and more than 148grams (5¼ ounces) to breed successfully. This takes about three years in captivity. Although they often breed communally in the wild, they do best if kept as true pairs year round in captivity.
Determining sex is tricky at first. Both sexes possess femoral pores, and when reared in captivity, coloration is no longer a reliable indicator of sex.
Looking for hemipenal bulges under the tail this is the safest sexing method. Gently arch the tail over the lizard’s back. Look at the underside of the tail just behind the vent opening. With females you’ll see the base of two ligaments, one on each side of the vent, angling down toward the tail tip. Just their base is visible, so it will look like a small upside-down V sitting just above each corner of the vent. With males the hemipenes sit on top of these ligaments, largely masking them. In this case, the pattern looks more like two parallel lines sitting just above the vent pointing toward the tail tip.

Setting up a breeding vivarium. Set up a breeding pair of Uromastyx as described, but add a nest box in the cool end instead of the normal, cave-like hide.

The most practical nesting area for a Mali Uromastyx is a completely self-enclosed tub. A 10-gallon soft-plastic tub with lid intact works well. Cut a 4-inch-diameter hole in the upper side, and attach a similar-sized flexible drainpipe or central heating duct to the hole to allow entry from ground level. Fill the box ⅔ full with a 50-50 mix of washed playground sand and peat moss. Adding 10 % caliche soil (soil with a high limestone high pH content   makes it more attractive to nesting females. Add water until the substrate is slightly moist to the touch.

Although Mali Uromastyx kept as pets can have a 12-hour photoperiod year round, put the lizards through an artificial winter to initiate breeding. Begin by dropping day lengths by one to two hours each week, either a few minutes each day or all at once each weekend, until they’re down to four to six hours of daylight.

Steadily decrease the average daytime ground temperature over this same time period until the mid-80s is the daily high. Night-time lows should also drop 2 to 3 degrees each week and eventually be in the high 60s. Night-time temperatures should persist throughout the night and most of the day. The exception is when basking lights are on, and temperatures climb back into the mid-80s.

During the early stages of Mali Uromastyx brumation, we offer food every second or third day, and we offer normal amounts at the accustomed feeding time, usually midmorning. When the lizards are down to six hours of daylight, we stop feeding completely. Full brumation proceeds for another 60 days. After that, reverse the process. Add a daylight hour or two per week while gradually increasing the background habitat temperatures until the summer norms are reached.

Incubation. Breeding usually occurs right before you reach the normal 12-hour day. Male Uromastyx often head-bob at the female Mali Uromastyx, especially in the early morning, and actual copulations are easy to miss.

Gestation lasts an average of four weeks before the female lays a single clutch of 10 to 20 eggs. Remove the Uromastyx eggs and the nest box as soon as she finishes burying them.

Prepare an incubation medium from slightly damp vermiculite cut with aquarium granular activated charcoal and 10 percent dry perlite. Fill a Tupperware container measuring approximately 11 inches long, 7 inches wide and 4 inches tall about ⅔ full with this mix, and bury the eggs on their sides until only a small portion of each egg is visible. Original orientation of the Mali Uromastyx eggs is not important, but handle them as little as possible. Put the lid on the container. No air holes are necessary though I do add some pi holes at either and of the box.

Incubate the container at 92 °F. Pop the lid once a week to circulate air and to look for any obviously bad eggs. Eggs more than 25 percent caved in, leaking fluid, or with fungal or bacterial growth are bad.

Care of the young Malis
Mail babies hatch in 60 to 80 days and require the same housing and feeding conditions as the adults.  Only two modifications are required. Paper towels for the substrate, and a ½” deep water dish is provided for the first two months.

Eight to 10 hatchling Uromastyx can be kept in a vivarium 4 feet long, 2 feet wide and 1½ feet tall. Remove two individuals every two to three months as they grow.

Most Uromastyx babies seek food within 24 hours of hatching. We offer the same diet given to adults, but we offer it twice per day: midmorning and midafternoon.

John