ValueAquatics Care Sheet      Equipment for a Green Iguana

Vivarium: A cage or vivarium 6’ x 5´ x 4´ is the Minimum for an adult.

Lighting: Two PT-2056 10” reflectors, Two PT-2192 Exo Terra Solar Glo Sun Lamp 125W.

Heating: include a tubular greenhouse heater on a thermostat and guard the heater.

Substrate: Orchid bark

 Décor: Large strong Branches, Large water bowls big enough for it to get in to. Extra Large feeding bowls.  

CARE

Common Name:  Green Iguana
Scientific Name:  Iguana iguana
Distribution:        Central & South Americas
Size:                      5´ – 6´ Total Length inc. tail

The Green Iguana,

An arboreal lizard, mainly from the South & Central American rain forests, sometimes seen in captivity in the reptile houses of zoo’s and wildlife parks, the Iguana is a large colourful lizard, mostly mottled shades of green in colour with varying black banding on the body and tail. Most Iguanas can learn to become tame with regular handling and petting. Males when adult can be territorial, and usually do better kept separate from other males. Iguanas have been known to show some aggression and for this reason they are not recommended as an ideal reptile purchase for beginners or children.

CAPTIVE ENVIRONMENT:

Use full spectrum 5% “UVB” lighting around 12 hours per day, which mimics natural sunlight, this is a special reptile tube light, (Reptisun, Zoomed, T-Rex etc). For maximum effect change the tubes every 6 months. Or use the Mercury vapour UV/Heat lamps Like the Exo Terra Solar Glo.
Provide a spot-lit basking area with access to a cooler area.
Supply stout strong branches and logs for climbing and exploring, making sure there is nothing the Iguana could trap or snag its claws on.
Greenhouse tube heater can help maintain the required temperature from below, and are a useful supplement especially during cold weather, Use with a suitable thermostat.
 

HANDLING:

Both sexes can benefit from frequent handling to help with taming, they will sometimes initially struggle to get free, but are also known to actually enjoy being stroked or rubbed on the body and will sometimes sit still for a while and accept this petting, care should be taken during breeding season when behaviour (in particular of males) can be erratic, and so common sense would be to avoid the facial area, avoid leaving Iguanas with unsupervised children and generally keep your eyes on them at all times especially around fingers arms legs or feet.

NATURAL HABITATION:

Green Iguanas are arboreal lizards (tree dwelling) they inhabit the Tropical rain forests of South and Central America at reasonably low altitudes of up to 1,000 metres, (Higher altitudes being too cold).
In captivity adult Iguana’s require a habitat, compound, den, vivarium, call it what you will, of at least 6´ x  5´ x 4´.
More space is always better whenever possible.

TEMPERATURE:

Daytime temperatures should be:
Basking area around 85-95 degrees F.
Cool area 75-85 degrees F.
Night temperatures can fall to around 70 degrees, even perhaps lower, as long as they are able to warm up in the morning.
Extra care should be taken during times of power cuts / failure, try to give this some thought so you are prepared if need be.
Basking area temp may be a little higher, as long as the Iguana is able to move to a cooler spot to thermo regulate.

HUMIDITY:

Iguanas require moderate to high levels of humidity.
You can help achieve this by misting the vivarium every other day, spray misting the Iguana himself and frequent bathing.
A large dish of water in his habitat will also help with this process through evaporation.
Humidity also helps considerably with the shedding process of Iguanas.

WATER REQUIREMENTS:

Supply a large fairly deep water dish for drinking, with fresh water provided daily.
Note: If the Iguana also uses this for bathing, then be aware that they have a strong tendency to defecate in water, it seems to have a laxative effect on them, and therefore it will need replacing on a more regular basis.

ANATOMY:

Two very important anatomical features.
First, Thermoregulation.
An Iguana (as with all cold blooded species) cannot generate its own body heat, and so must thermo regulate, by moving in and out of hot and cooler spots (gradients) to maintain the correct body temperature.
Hence the different temperature zones indicated in TEMPERATURE above.
Secondly, Metabolism.
Iguanas need UVB light (in the absence of natural sunlight) to convert Vitamin D into its active form, in this active form it can then assist in the absorption of calcium into the body.
So sunlight or in the absence of it, at least 12 hours of full spectrum light (UVB) is required daily to ensure your Iguana remains healthy.
This together with a good calcium intake and the required warmth will prevent the occurrence of MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease).
A good varied diet should ensure the required calcium levels are taken up, but if in any doubt then a commercial calcium / vitamin supplement (sprinkled on food) may be given occasionally as a top up, or at times such as, when females are gravid, if you have a picky eater, or if the Iguana has a loss of appetite due to breeding condition, change of surroundings etc.

BEHAVIOUR:

Most Iguanas can become tame to some degree, with regular handling and petting.
Males can be territorial, and usually do better kept separate from other males.
Behaviour is sometimes erratic during breeding season when extra care should be taken in handling, due to some having the tendency to become more aggressive at this time.
Iguanas are normally lethargic creatures, and can become even more so by a number of happenings, such as, a change of habitat or owner, being handled by a different person, breeding season, a change in diet, or indeed anything out of the norm.
They are creatures of habit and tend to sulk if this is disturbed in anyway, but usually the appetite and normality returns after a short break.

ILLNESS:

This section is intended to help with initial identification of these problems, if problems persist or if they appear serious then veterinarian advice should be sought. The only person able to diagnose disease and prescribe medication is a veterinarian.
Sadly the one most commonly associated with Iguanas MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) need not exist, if owners took all the necessary steps in the care, diet, and housing of their iguanas.
Calcium, warmth and UVB lighting prevent MBD from occurring, but sometimes when an Iguana has been rescued or received from an unwanted situation, where care has not been a priority, then the signs of this disease can be apparent.
The good news is it can mostly be reversible depending on severity, especially in early cases, with the Iguana going on to lead a near normal life.
Signs are….swollen limbs, receding jaws that look out of line from the side, dragging of legs, spongy areas around the mouth and in severe cases, deformed bones and a twisted lumpy spine.
Consider prevention of this disease your duty (makes it easy to remember)…
D.U.T.Y.
Diet, UVB, Temperature, You to ensure they receive it, Therefore resulting in no problems with MBD.

Mites…Little creatures usually no bigger than a full stop “…..”
They can hide under your Iguanas scales, in the neck creases, dewlap folds and around the eyes and feed on their blood.
Mites can be hard to get rid of due to the number of hiding places available in the habitat.
There are many mite eradication preparations now available, but they must be used in combination with cleanliness to be effective.
Get veterinarians diagnosis if you suspect mites but are unsure.

Worms…Intestinal parasites, Can sometimes be seen like a tiny light coloured thread moving in the faeces.
A faecal examination from a vet can confirm the infection.
Fairly easy to treat, a first dose to kill off the parasites present, with a follow up dose around 2 weeks later to catch any hatched eggs should do the trick, again while being treated cleanliness is a must to prevent re-infection.
Veterinarian’s diagnosis should be required to confirm.

Tail (loss of)…Although not an illness as such, it does happen and can be a worrying sight for an Iguana’s owner, so for a brief explanation.
The Iguanas tail is designed to come away easily, but unfortunately cannot be re-attached.
It is generally thought to be an escape mechanism in the wild, where a predator can be left with the tail while the Iguana makes its escape.
Because of this, never try to catch or hold your Iguana by its tail.
Loss of tail is mostly something that happens to juvenile Iguanas and is normally re-grown, but to a lesser size and colour than before, it usually heals ok but monitor for signs of infection and keep clean while healing.

Stomatitis (Mouth rot)…An illness which can if left untreated eventually be fatal! It usually presents by bleeding gums, a green/grey cheesy substance noticeable when yawning or eating, and a lack of appetite. Treatment consists of Antibiotics (sometimes 2 types combined) and removal of the caseous plaque from the injured mouth; needless to say a Veterinarian is needed to oversee this treatment. Causes can be an injury to the mouth allowing the bacteria to enter the wound, soft gums due to lack of UVB or a generally run down unhealthy Iguana.

LIFE EXPECTANCY:

The normal life expectancy of a healthy Iguana is around 15 years, some have indeed lived longer than this (oldest recorded being 29 years Hatfield), and many have died younger, many Iguanas fed on a previously bad diet of dog or cat food for example, seem to die around 6 years of age due to kidney / liver problems.

SEXING:

Exact sexing especially in juveniles is very difficult and can only be done in certainty by someone with veterinarian experience in a procedure called probing the cloacae vent. However the characteristics that develop as they get older, can give a good idea of gender, and these are, In males…usually larger – heads, dewlaps and subtympanic scales, the femoral pores which are a row of glands along the underside of the thighs are much larger and more pronounced in males, and also exude a waxy substance that is used to distribute scent, also erratic behaviour during breeding season which may consist of biting , nipping and sometimes aggression but note this behaviour is not shown in all males and can indeed be shown in a few females.
Head bobbing, a series of movements of the head both up and down and less often side to side, are usually much more pronounced in males.

For females, generally the opposite of the above …smaller dewlaps, heads and subtympanic scales, the rows of femoral pores are just small dots, and in breeding season they sometimes start digging or scratching as if looking for somewhere to lay eggs.
They may become gravid and actually lay eggs but these would obviously be sterile if no male has been in attendance.

NUTRITIONAL REQUIREMENTS:

Iguanas are herbivores and so require a good varied vegetarian diet, some outdated information crops up now and again mainly in old books, that says they can eat crickets, mice or cat & dog food, thankfully this information now tends to be disappearing fast, all experts are now in agreement on the herbivore status.
The diet below gives a good example of foods that can be offered and does not need to be adhered to 100% but is supplied for guidance purposes, I find in winter time when fresh food can be scarce, a good substitute is the pre-packed mixed bags of salad greens available in all supermarkets, try to avoid the ones containing Iceberg lettuce which is practically water and nil nutrition, these can be further supplemented with dandelion leaves and flowers.

DIET: Feed up to 50% of,
Leafy greens, Turnip greens, Nasturtiums (leaves & flowers), Dandelions (leaves & flowers), Escarole, Rocket, Hibiscus leaves and flowers, Watercress, Land cress, fresh Alfalfa and Carrot tops.

Up to 35% of,
Green beans, Zucchini, Squash, Bean sprouts, Okra, Parsley, Grated carrot Red Yellow or Green bell peppers (Sweet peppers), Leeks, Peas, Cucurbits, Parsnips alfalfa pellets, Vine leaves, Chinese greens and Celery.

Around 10% of,
Fruits such as Papayas, Blackberries, Kiwi, Peach, Banana, Grapes, Plums, Apricots, Oranges, Clementine’s, Satsuma’s, Mango’s, Apples, Figs, Strawberries, Pear, Cherry, Melons, Fuchsia fruits and Rose hips.

Up to 5% from the occasional foods below,

The following contain “Oxalates” which binds with calcium and hampers absorption, and should not be fed in large quantities, Chard, Spinach, Rhubarb stems only (beware rhubarb leaves are very toxic), Dock, Sorrel, Beets and Beet greens.

These contain “Goitrogens”, so same as above feed in small quantities only, Cabbage, Broccoli, Kale, Cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and Bok Choy.

 SUMMARY:

The ownership of a Green Iguana is not to be taken lightly and certainly not to be just purchased on a whim, they are not too difficult to look after but do need some care and attention and can run to some expense with special lights for UVB, basking and heating A large habitat is also required for all but the very young Iguana….So to summarize I would say The Green Iguana is not a beginners or young Childs pet, but for someone with the time care and funds available, it can be the making of a good few years of enjoyment.

 John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet   Equipment Required for Keeping Terrapins & Sliders

Aquarium 36”x15”x12” L x D X H smallest for 1 adult Turtle. Only needs 6”-8” water

Lighting

For Aquarium Arcadia control ACU18

Tube PT2160 Exo Terra Repti Glo 5.0 24” 18Watt

OR

PT-2187 Repto Glo 5.0 Compact New 26Watt to give UVA/B for shell and bones.

PT-2054 Glow lite 21cm clamp lamp.

Heating

For the Aquarium/Vivariums Rena Smart Heater heater/thermostat 150w

Substrate

Bare bottom or River/Aquatic sand not gravel. 

Filter

Tetratec EX 700 External canister Filter.

Décor

Zoo med Turtle dock, Log Cave barks effect Medium and or long Cave Bark effect Medium.

Two thermometers one aquatic for the water and one for the air temp PT-2472 digital thermometer will do for both. To check the water temp leave the probe in the water to check the air temp just lift it up out of the water.

CARE

This is a general Care sheet on Terrapins/Sliders. Other turtles may need different care.

Distribution:

Yellow bellied slider. South eastern Virginia to Northern Florida

Red Eared Slider. Originally from the Mississippi River to Gulf of Mexico. However they are now found world wide due to people releasing them into the wild.

Size: Males can reach 7 – 9 inches on average where females reach 7 – 12 inches. Contrary to popular myth, red ear sliders do not stay small if kept in a small enclosure.

Life span: In the wild they can live up to 20 years and there have been reports of them living up to 40 years in captivity.

Housing requirements:

Terrapins need a lot of room. The general rule of thumb is 1 inch of shell per 10 gallons of water (so a 4 inch turtle should have 40 gallons tank). There are a variety of enclosures that have been used successfully. The most common is either glass or acrylic aquariums. Preformed ponds, stock tanks, and storage containers may also be used for an enclosure. Whatever is used, care should be taken that is escape proof for the red ear slider and predator proof to prevent other animals getting in the enclosure. A screen top on top of the enclosure is a good way to achieve this. Screen mesh should have ½ inch grids. If the grids are any smaller it may obstruct any UVB rays that are being directed in.

Temperature:

Water temperature should be 78º – 80º F for hatchling red ear sliders while adults prefer it at 72º – 76º. Day time air temperature should be 75º – 80º F with a basking area air temperature should be 85º – 90º. Either two thermometers on either side of the enclosure or infra-red thermometer may be used to get an accurate temperature.

Heat/Light:

UV lighting providing UVA and UVB for proper calcium metabolism and skeletal development of the red ear slider. This may be achieved by Mercury Vapour bulb or fluorescent bulb with at least 5% – 10% output of UVB. Sunlight is the best source of UVB. Incandescent lights and ceramic emitters may be used to provide basking spots.

Water temperature may be heated with a submersible water heater at 3-5 watts per gallon.

Substrate:

No substrate is needed for red ear slider enclosures. Many people feel it is easier to clean and improves filter performance. If you would like a more natural feel for our slider you can use river rocks (large, smooth rocks) or sand. Gravel should NOT be used because can be ingested by the red ear slider and cause blockage and prolapsed rectum.

Environment:

Filtration is a must with red ear sliders. The general rule is you want a filter three times more powerful than what would generally be used for an aquarium for fish. A basking area should be provided so the slider can climb out and fully dry their shell. This can be achieved by bricks, cinder block, cork bark, driftwood, grapevine, fixed PVC, as well as a wide array of commercially made basking platforms. If you have a female slider, you may also want to provide an area with moist soil for them to dig and lay eggs.

If there is nowhere is available to dig, females may retain the eggs which can cause health problems. Hiding areas are used by many turtles and should be provided in the enclosure. Please keep in mind that these should be stable so they do not trap the slider and cause it to drown.

 John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet     Equipment for Keeping Red-Foot Tortoise

Indoor Housing

Tortoise Table 48” available in Beech, vivariums should not be used to keep tortoise in as they require a good circulation of air and a good day night temperature gradient. Otherwise long term respiratory problems can occur.

Outdoors Housing

During warm weather All Tortoise love being outdoors, use either the Apex Shelter and run or the Square rabbit/guinea pig run. Tortoise love digging so some plastic mesh chicken wire underneath the runs.

Lighting/Heating

The best lighting for a tortoise is one that gives both heat and the required UVA and UVB. Use a PT2192 Exo-Terra Sola-Glo sun lamp160watt. These Bulbs are designed to give both heat and UV to your animals. , Exo Terra Glow Light clamp lamp

We recommend two thermometers PT-2465 place one at each end to show the cool temperature and hot end temperatures to indicate that there is a thermal gradient.

Substrate

Best substrate is Loamy compost and playpen sand 1:1

Décor

Use a PT-2851 Reptile Hide Out Cave or a Tortoise Hut Large. For drinking water use a Tortoise pool Medium to Large for Adults. Plastic plants are not good as the tortoise WILL try to eat them. A few Rocks and Branches are good as they love climbing over things and exploring.

CARE

This care sheet is intended only to cover the general care of this species. Further research to best develop a maintenance plan for whichever species/subspecies you are caring for is essential. 

Red-foot tortoises are among the most popular and appropriate tortoises for beginning tortoise keepers.  Stunningly attractive, their black shell contrasts with their yellow scute areola, bright red legs and yellow or red markings on their head.  Being from multiple habitats, they are among the hardiest of species. As long as their requirements are met, Red-foots can be expected to give literally a lifetime of companionship.  While they do get fairly large, one over 16 inches (40 cm) would be considered exceptional with most attaining a length of 14 inches (35 cm) or so. There is also a smaller “dwarf” variant called a Cherry-head that only attains a length of 10 – 12 inches (25 – 30 cm) as an adult. 

Upon initial sighting, a Red-foot tortoise, Geochelone carbonaria, looks very similar to the closely related Yellow-foot tortoise, G. denticulata, with the primary distinction being the presence of yellow scales on the forelegs of the Yellow-foot and red scales on the forelegs of the Red-foot (thus the common names for each).  However, of all of the differences between these two species, this is actually the most variable.  While Red-foots may be more intensely coloured, this is not a universal distinction; there are Yellow-foots that are very brightly patterned and comparatively drab Red-foots.  While there are numerous morph metric differences between these two species, by far the easiest method of telling Red-foots and Yellow-foots apart is the differences in the scales on their heads. Yellow-foots have elongated prefrontal scales and a fragmented frontal scale.  Red-foots have shortened prefrontal’s and an intact frontal scale. The prefrontal and frontal scales are the scales at the tip of the nose.  In addition to this obvious difference, female Red-foot tortoises are more elongated, looking much like a loaf of bread while older male Red-foots tend to develop an hourglass shape.   Adult Yellow-foots of both sexes tends to be wider/ rounder and somewhat flatter in their overall shape.

HOUSING RED-FOOTS INDOORS – The most common form of indoor accommodation for small or medium sized red-foot Tortoises consists of a “tortoise table’ to all appearances this looks like a bookshelf unit flipped onto its back. A reasonable size for a hatchling is 2 feet by 3 feet as the animal grows the size of this habitat should be increased.   For an adult red-foot tortoise the indoor accommodation should be at least 6 feet by 4 feet into the bottom of this “turtle table” holes can be cut to allow for the sinking of food, water and eventually nesting containers flush with the surface for easier animal access. 

The water area of the habitat should be large enough to allow the tortoise to soak in it if it wishes – it must also be shallow enough to protect from drowning. Cypress mulch is the indoor substrate of choice for this species due to its humidity retention characteristics which in turn leads to good scute and skin health.

In one corner of the environment a 100W spot lamp should be positioned to provide artificial basking facilities. This should be positioned to provide a basking spot of 90 degrees F (32 degrees C) or so in that section of the habitat.  The habitat should also be equipped with a full spectrum fluorescent light to provide for UVB. A UVB source is necessary for Vitamin D3 syntheses (needed in calcium metabolism) If preferred to this lighting arrangement a Mercury vapour bulb may be used that fulfils all requirements. There should be a hide box located in the corner away from the basking spot to allow the animal a cool dim retreat. 

OUTDOOR HOUSING – Predator proof outdoor habitats offer many advantages over indoor accommodations and should seriously be considered as an option during warm weather.   Overall, this species does best in naturally humid climates outdoors.   If your area is not naturally humid, water timers and a misting/sprinkler system can be utilized to artificially create one.  Some areas of the habitat should be heavily planted to allow the Red-foot a cool dim retreat.  Provision of a wet muddy area for wallowing will also be appreciated by your tortoise. Redfoots take readily to using a hutch or doghouse-like artificial retreat.  In areas with cool nights a thermostatically controlled ceramic heater in such a retreat will provide the tortoise with an area that remains above 60 degrees F (16 C)     

DIET – Red-foots are omnivorous, consuming both animal and plant material in the wild.  In captivity this may be duplicated by feeding a minimal amount of low fat dog food or whole meat product once every couple weeks or so.  Meat should not be fed as a part of the daily diet.  Occasional earthworms may be fed as well. 

The diet offered should consist of:  

•        Leafy greens (dandelions, clover, endive etc.)  
•        Fruits
•        OCCASIONAL meat based protein. 

Diets rich in meats are invariably high in phosphates and low in calcium. This can cause serious problems for tortoises that need high levels of calcium for healthy bone and carapace development. Additional calcium supplementation is therefore absolutely essential. For proper growth as well as egg production, powdered calcium can be sprinkled on all foods once a week to help meet these requirements.  It is suggested that you use calcium supplemented with vitamin D3 if the animal is being maintained indoors and calcium without D3 if it is outdoors. Provision of a cuttlefish bone, which can be gnawed if required, is also recommended. The substrate of choice is cypress mulch or something possessing the same humidity holding properties in order to keep their shells/skin from drying out in captive conditions. In outdoor pens in areas of high sand content, food should not be placed directly on sandy soil. Sand can build up in the tortoise’s Gastro Iintestinal tract leading to possible impaction and even death.  A completely separate sand-free area in the habitat should be utilized to feed. 

This species does not hibernate in nature.  Facilities must be provided for the continued health and well being of the tortoise indoors in cooler (non tropical) climates.  

For more information try the Tortoise Protection Group Care sheet.

Join the Tortoise Trust Forum

John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet     Equipment for a Mediterranean Tortoise

Indoors Housing

Tortoise Table 48” available in Beech, vivariums should not be used to keep tortoise in as they require a good circulation of air and a good day night temperature gradient. Otherwise long term respiratory problems can occur.

Outdoors Housing

During warm weather All Tortoise love being outdoors, use either the Apex Shelter and run or the Square rabbit/guinea pig run. Tortoise love digging so some plastic mesh chicken wire underneath the runs.

Use Tortoise Table 48” available in Beech or Oak, vivariums should not be used to keep tortoise in as they require a good circulation of air and a good day night temperature gradient. Otherwise long term respiratory problems can occur. 

Lighting/Heating

The best lighting for a tortoise is one that gives both heat and the required UVA and UVB. Use a PT2192 Exo-Terra Sola-Glo sun lamp125Watt. These Bulbs are designed to give both heat and UV to your animals. Plus an Exo Terra Glo Light 10” PT2056

We recommend two thermometers PT-2465 place one at each end to show the cool temperature and hot end temperatures to indicate that there is a thermal gradient.

Substrate

Best substrate is Loamy compost and playpen sand 1:1

Décor

Use a PT-2851 Reptile Hide Out Cave or a Tortoise Hut Large. For drinking water use a Tortoise pool Medium to Large for Adults. Plastic plants are not good as the tortoise WILL try to eat them. A few Rocks and Branches are good as they love climbing over things and exploring.

Care of hatchling Mediterranean tortoises

These include:

Greek Spurthigh Tortoise (Testudo graeca)

Distribution

They are found in southern Spain, Eastern Europe, Northern Africa, and parts of Asia especially the Middle East. They are found in a variety of environments from seashore dunes to rocky mountain steppes but usually in very hot, dry and arid regions with high summer temperatures. They inhabit areas of sparse vegetation where they browse on grass and plant growth.

Hermans Tortoise (Testudo hermanni)

Distribution

Mediterranean like France, Spain, Italy, the former Yugoslavia, Turkey, Greece and northern Africa.

Horsefields Tortoise (Testudo horsfieldii)

Does not require any paperwork. Although this is not a Mediterranean Tortoise the care is the same.

Distribution

East of the Caspian Sea, in deserts and mountains from Iran to Pakistan. Habitat:  Open, karstic (limestone) regions with dry, sandy, and loamy soil.  

Marginated Tortoise (Testudo marginata)

Distribution

Found only in parts of Greece, south of Mount Olympus and sometimes in Tuscany and Sardinia. The Marginated Tortoise lives in more mountainous regions. It can be found in elevations as high as 1,600 m (5,250 feet). The tortoise should come with a yellow licence called an article 10 from the DEFRA

CARE

The actual conditions required by hatchling tortoises are much the same as those required for their adult counterparts. Obviously in the wild they survive with the same conditions. However due to their size and metabolic systems they are much more vulnerable to outside influences.

Because of their size they are much more susceptible to predation particularly in captivity as their range of hidey holes is much more limited and our other normal family pets are often free to roam in the same area. Another problem with their size is that, if they do find a good hidey hole then the new owner will be hard pushed to find their baby tortoises. Surprisingly adult tortoises are also capable of hiding very well; it is amazing how hard it can be to find a 12 inch long tortoise in the dusk on a lawned area with just a few plants around the edge.

The other problem with size is that they are much more susceptible to temperature or environment problems, the ideal temperature for a tortoise to maintain its body temperature around (apart from during hibernation) is 30°C, to attain this background temperature of about 18°C plus basking facilities are required.

The problem with the baby tortoises’ metabolic system is that it is capable of converting very small quantities of low protein food into an excessive growth rate, lack of the correct vitamins and conditions are capable of causing a baby to become malformed or die very quickly. To much food – even the right food can cause a tortoise to grow too quickly and become bumpy, and damage internal organs very quickly, again leading to a premature death for your tortoise.

Because of these problems it is recommended that a baby tortoise be fed on very small quantities of totally natural food (weeds to the uninitiated) with additional calcium added to every meal and weekly vitamin supplements added. Very careful monitoring of growth should be made – weekly weighing, measuring and visual inspection should be made.

If a baby tortoise develops ANY bumpiness then the volume of food it is consuming should be cut back. Daily feeding is not necessary to keep your baby tortoise healthy, in fact daily feeding is more likely to cause your baby tortoise problems than irregular feeding (i.e. every three or even four days) – where they come from suitable food is not abundant throughout the summer months.

Most experts suggest that even baby tortoises should be hibernated right from their first winter, (most agree a short hibernation 6-8 weeks is ideal) this should be preceded by a starvation period of approx 2-3 weeks in order to clear the stomach contents. Weight should be checked on a regular basis prior to and during hibernation, any drastic (above 5%) loss should trigger the responsible owner to wake the tortoise and over winter it.

If natural foods are not available then the favoured substitutes are romaine lettuce, kale, spring greens, watercress and similar high fibre, low protein foods – no individual dietary constituent should be concentrated on, variety is of utmost importance. Tomatoes, Iceberg lettuce, cucumber and fruit should NOT be given except as very occasional treats. All cultivated foods that are used should be double dosed with calcium supplements to try to avoid any calcium deficiencies; extra vigilance is needed when an un-natural diet is supplied.

HOUSING Indoors

For its safety a baby tortoise should always be provided with a Tortoise table.

UVB Lighting – ‘natural’ light is needed to encourage calcium absorption.

Basking Lamp – a simple spot light can be used.

Background temperature of at least 17°C (if indoors in a centrally heated house room temperature should be ok)

Hiding places such as half plant pots, cork, caves.

Sensible substrate – newspaper good for newly acquired specimens, not very natural though, and should be replaced with a multi substrate terrain including soil, sand, rocks, live plants etc when practical.

A shallow water dish that the tortoises can easily climb in and out of.

A source of calcium should be ALWAYS available – e.g. cuttlefish bone, Calcium powder.

HOUSING Outdoors

On hot days even baby tortoises can be allowed outside, care must be taken to protect your charge from both adverse weather, and predation.

To achieve this an equivalent of a rabbit run can be used, the construction should be such that the bottom three inches are solid wood, the rest of the sides and the top can be fine (max ½ inch) netting, a shelter should be provided which is wind proof and ideally a basking area should be provided such as a glass covered area to concentrate the sunlight can achieve this, and/or a spot lamp mounted in the run. Your tortoise cannot share this run with any other animals, or any other species of tortoise.

Care should be taken with the set-up that the tortoise cannot burrow under any part of the housing and escape into the rest of your garden as either, you wont be able to find the tortoise, someone else will find your tortoise or a predator –like next doors cat – will find your tortoise.

YOU’RE TORTOISE AND THE LAW

In the UK (and Europe) there are a few laws relating to your baby tortoise.

If you got it from a reputable source then you will have a yellow licence called an article 10 from the DEFRA, which should state that the tortoise needs to be micro-chipped when it achieves a plastron length of 100mm, this law is designed to protect the wild populations from depletion by illegal taking from the wild, and may well save several wild populations.

The microchip is the size of a large cooked piece of rice and is implanted by using an absolutely massive needle; it is implanted in the rear left leg and may be one of several makes. Any vet can supply, and some can even fit these devices. The recommended types are Avid –designed for Bird use, and TROVAN- multi use (zoos often use them).

The process although it looks horrible does not seem to unduly stress the tortoises. And has the added benefit of making your tortoise identifiable should it ever become lost, or stolen. If you obtained your tortoise from someone other than a reputable breeder, and did not get paperwork for your tortoise then if you bought it, rather than being given it, both you and your supplier were breaking the law.

Two species of tortoise are exempt from paperwork to date in the UK these are the Horsefields and the Red Foot Tortoise.

Unlicensed tortoises can be GIVEN away, and with a donation letter it is possible for the new keeper to get breeding paperwork, but this will not allow the tortoise to be sold or traded.

If adult tortoises are kept and have been kept since prior to the trade restrictions being applied it is possible to get licenses from the DEFRA, using the correct procedures, forms etc.

Anyone breeding tortoises should make all efforts to obtain licences for their adult tortoises, and therefore licence any babies produced.

If you have tortoises which have come from the wild after the import restrictions were imposed or whose history can not be tracked then buying or selling of the tortoise should not be undertaken, again these can be given away, and the recipient can apply for breeding paperwork.

If conservation of the species is your concern then it may be worth donating the tortoise to a zoo, other organisation or private breeder who is actively breeding tortoises, although most organisations and zoos are not attempting to breed from the tortoises in their care, except for very rare varieties such as the Egyptian tortoise.

There are also a few ´rescue´ groups around the country who have licensed breeding groups of tortoises who may be able to give more advice on re-homing (http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/cheloniauk/Rehome.htm), acquiring mates for your tortoises, or accepting tortoises into their own collections for breeding on either loan or a permanent basis.

We recommend joining the Tortoise Trust Forum

John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet                           Equipment for keeping Asiatic House Gecko

Terrarium

PT-2600 Exo Terra Glass Terrarium 30×30x30m (12×12x12”) WxDxH

For 2 or 3 lizards.  PT-2605 Exo Terra Glass Terrarium 45×45x45m (18×18x18”) WxDxH

Lighting for the PT-2600: Compact Terrarium Canopy PT-2225 + Bulb PT-2189 Repto glo 5.0 compact new 26W

Lighting for the PT-2605: Compact Terrarium Canopy PT-2226 + 2 x PT-2189 Repto glo 5.0 compact new 26W

Heating: Royce Heat mat 7×12” will do on a Habistat mat stat

Substrate: Orchid Bark

Décor: Vines PT-3080 – PT-3082 Plants PT-3040 – 3052. Branches well secured, Pool Bark Effect small

Care

Asiatic House Gecko (Hemidactylus frenatus)

Description The Asiatic House Gecko is nocturnal, meaning they are active during the nigh time hours. The adhesive lamellae of these lizards do not cover the entire bottom of their feet, not extending to their toes.

Estimated Size: 6″

Location: Southeast Asia; spread too many tropical areas.

Captive Care Information

Food & Water Their main diet will consist of insets . Feed them a varying diet of crickets mealworms Locusts, waxworms and spiders , and spiders. If your Asiatic House Gecko is large enough, baby mice can also be offered sparingly. Make sure to dust the food items with a multi-vitamin supplement. Your Geckos will lick water that collects on the glass and items in the habitat. Some Asiatic House Geckos tend to lick water from a shallow dish as well.

Lighting, Temperature & Humidity

Keep the daytime temperature in the habitat from 73°F to 86°F. At night, drop this range down to 68°F to 77°F. Humidity levels should remain constant around 80%. Use full spectrum UVB lighting along with a heat source; either an incandescent light bulb   or ceramic heat emitter.

Housing

A tall habitat is required for Asiatic House Geckos, as they like to climb. The overall habitat does not need to be very large however, with a minimum of 12″ x 12″ by 16″ being sufficient. The bigger the better though. Fill the habitat with branches and leaves. Asiatic House Geckos will lay their eggs on the branches and other items, so make sure they are easy to remove (to transfer to an incubator). Use a Orchid bark as a substrate.

John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet    Equipment for a Vietnamese Blue Beauty

 Vivarium:

Vivarium AX48

Lighting: Lights for viewing only two Komodo ceramic fittings, one PT-2131 Neodymium spot bulb 40w + Bulb Guard

Heating: PT-2047 Ceramic Heat Emitter 150watt and ceramic guard. Pulse Habistat pulse proportional Thermostat.

Substrate: Orchid bark or Moss Aspen or Beach Chippings.

Décor: PT-2804 X-large water Dish, PT-3040 – PT3052 mix of 4 – 6+ plants, Vines 4 PT-3082 they need plenty of vines and branches to climb. Bark Cave large.

CARE

Distribution: Blue Beauties are colubrids native to the Vietnam-Thailand-Burma areas of Southeast Asia, from heavy forests to cultivated fields and mountainous areas.
Size: These are some of the longest rat snakes at typical lengths of 7 to 8 feet.
Lifespan: From 15 to 20 years.
Description: These are stunning snakes, long and slender with a blue-grey base colour offset with cream and darker blue markings in 4 different patterns that change as you move down the body. Black orbital stripes accentuate the eyes while the chin and underside remain a creamy white to yellow. Just after the head is a length of solid blue-grey before it changes to a diamond/ladder pattern of darker blue and cream along the back. Further down the pattern stretches into more vertical cream stripes which change yet again just after the vent into much darker smooth horizontal cream stripes along a much darker blue background.
Hatchlings are much more olive green in colour and grow bluer as they get older.
Behaviour: Blue Beauties have a reputation for being nervous snakes, but with regular handling they can be very docile and charming pets. They are diurnal and largely active during the day.
Difficulty Rating: Not a beginners snake as they can be aggressive.

 Enclosure: The minimum enclosure size for an adult Blue Beauty is a tall vivarium 48” x 24” x 24” (LxWxH). The snake will appreciate as much room to explore as you can give it so long as there are places to hide, climb, and lounge. A young snake or juvenile will need more hides for larger enclosures to reduce stress, but the smallest you should use for a hatchling should be 20L.

Keep only one snake per enclosure as they have been known to take snakes as part of their diet.
Substrate: Aspen is as good substrate as they love to burrow through it. I use dried bamboo leaves as it looks more natural for my natural vivarium. Newspaper and the like is nice and easy to clean but not as aesthetic. Coconut husk based substrates, Beech chips, are decorative substrates that are ideal for Blue Beauties. Cedar is deadly to reptiles, do not use Cedar bedding! Gravel, sand, mulch, and corn cob are not recommended for these snakes.
Temps: The ideal temperatures for Blue Beauties are 72-80 degrees. They do not seem bothered by temperature fluctuation but do not go bellow 70 F or above 85 F they go off their food and appear stressed above 85 F. One of my Blue Beauties goes off her food if it goes above 78 F.
Humidity/Water: Humidity does not appear to be a factor with Blue Beauties, Though adults like to soak in a water dish that is large enough for the snake to soak but not large enough for them to submerge their whole length at once. For my adults I use ceramic dog dishes.

So far there have not been any shedding problems. Do not use distilled or chlorinated water! Chlorine is dangerous to reptiles, and the distillation process removes all of the natural nutrients from water that animals need. If your tap water is chlorinated either use a de chlorinater obtainable from good reptile or aquatic shops, or let the water stand for 24 hours before use.
Furniture etc: Blue Beauties love to bask in high places such as on top of their hides or on ledges and cruise along branches over and under… The more you give them to climb, the more active they will be. Like all snakes, they do need at least one hide preferably elongated like cardboard tubes.

Feeding: Hatchlings and juveniles – 1 or 2 pink/ fuzzy mice to 1 or 2 pink/fuzzy rats every 7 days; Adults – 1 or 2 medium rats or 2 small rats every 7 days. I feed mine frozen/thawed. Like most snakes, judge based off the roundest part of the body. Your Beauty will typically sleep off their food for a day or two after. Do not handle your snake for about 3 days after feeding to avoid risk of regurgitation, this goes for any snake.
Choosing to feed in a separate container or in the enclosure is up to you. I’ve found that it depends on the snake. Some are more comfortable eating in the enclosure and being moved only stresses them, and others don’t care what you do so long as there is a rat in front of them. I tend to hide their food among the branches and make them hunt for it. It all depends on what works best for you and your snake.
Handling: These snakes need regular handling to stay tame, and like many colubrids are very fast active curious snakes.

Acclimation: New arrivals need at least a week or sometimes even two of just settling in, getting used to the new enclosure and routine, before they get handled. Just to get them off to a good start.

If they are newly imported wild snakes they will probably be dehydrated and full of worms and parasites.

To re-hydrate a snake put it in a large enough plastic container with a lid and some holes in the lid for air transference. Add ½” Luke warm water and half a can of a bottle of sports drink de-gassed or some critical care powder. Let the snake soak for half an hour. This allows the snake to drink and the skin to absorb some moisture and the sports drink adds essential salts EDTA and minerals that have been lost. Do this daily until the snake is fully re hydrated, usually 4-5 days.

Take too a reptile vet for worms and parasites.

John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet                 Equipment for keeping an  Egyptian Sand Gecko

Vivarium: PT-2600 The Exo Terra Glass Terrarium

Lighting: PT-2225 Compact Fluorescent Terrarium Canopy. PT-2187 Repto Glo 5.0 Compact NEW 26W

Heating:  Exo Terra Desert PT2030 Heat Mat. Habistat Temperature Thermostat. Thermometer.

Substrate: Desert Sand or Playpen Sand.

Décor: Rocks drift wood, Bark Cave-small

Vitamins. Reptivite or Nutrobal and Komodo Calcium. 

CARE

Egyptian Sand Gecko (Stenodactylus petrii)

Behavior: The sand gecko is a small, desert dwelling species reaching a total of just over 5 inches. It is a terrestrial gecko, meaning that it lacks the adhesive toe pads on their feet. Therefore, they cannot climb smooth surfaces, and prefers to stay close to the ground. This is where they do a lot of digging. They do not tunnel like some species, but instead make chambers under rocks and pieces of wood and bark. Stenos do vocalize, but not very often. Usually when they are mating or chirping to their partners.

Longevity: Stenos have a life expectancy of around 5 years. Most are imported, so likely to be older than you think they are. They are also likely to have parasites or other diseases and that will shorten their life if not looked after. There have not been any records of stenos and their life expectancies as far as I know, so 5 years is approximate and an educated guess.

The Sand Gecko for The Beginner: Although having more complicated needs than say a leopard or crested gecko, sand geckos are relatively easy to care for. For many reasons, the sand gecko is a good choice for moving up in experience. While an easy species to care for, you should definitely already have some experience with geckos. You must realize that these geckos do not like to be held, and spend most of their time hiding under cage décor. Parasites are often found on and in stenos and must be dealt with otherwise death may occur

Diet: Stenodactylus petrii are strictly insectivores in nature, eating appropriate sized crickets, and small mealworms. Smaller worms (phoenix and waxworms) can be fed, but not too often.

Supplying calcium is always important. You should dust all livefood with calcium except for once or twice a week. Once or twice a week use a vitamin supplement, with D3.

Water is not all too important. Spray the cage down every few days. This is the time to give them a gentle spray and let them lap up water off their bodies. These geckos come from the deserts of Egypt and Libya, so keep humidity down as low as possible although, as previously stated, a misting to keep them sand from caving in is a good idea.

They should be kept at 75°- 85°°F during day time and 65°- 75°F during night. They should be provided a basking spot with a basking heat lamp.

Males can be told apart from females by the presence of a hemipenal bulge and their more slender appearance.

John

ValueAquatics Care Sheet                             Equipment for Helmeted Gecko’s

Terrarium:

Exo Terra Terrarium  PT-2613 (90cm x 45cm x 45cm) for a trio

Lighting:

90cm Compact Fluorescent 4 Light Canopy

2x PT-2187 Repto Glo 5.0 C New 26w

2 x PT-2102 Sun Glo Daylight Lamps T10/25

Heating:

Royce Heat Mat 12×16inch

Habistat Mat Stat Thermostat.

Substrate:

Desert Sand, Playpen sand.

Décor:

Small water bowl, few small pebbles, Cork bark  Bark Cave small.

Vitamins

Calcium powder, Vitamins Nutrobal or Reptivite 

Care of the Helmeted geckos (Geckonia chazaliae)

This interesting little Gecko’s can be found along the North West African coast from Rio de Oro in Mauritania, northwards all the way to Morocco. They are not normally found more than three miles inland. Although such proximity to the ocean increases humidity, the habitat of the gecko is desert with little vegetation where they can hide during the day.
Description
This gecko is sometimes mistaken for a rather short and stout species of Agama. Like Agamas, the helmeted gecko stores its own fat reserves along the side of its body, rather than in its tail as most other geckos do. Its head is separate from the body and at the rear of the head there are enlarged tubercular scales which resemble a helmet, giving this gecko its name. These geckos have tough skin and can be handled but this can also stress them.
The Helmeted Gecko has no eyelids, and relies on its tongue to clean the brille/surface of the eyes. The pupils are vertical, like many other nocturnal species of gecko. During the day, the helmeted gecko’s colour blends in remarkably well with the sand. At night, the light sandy colour changes to chocolate brown, with dark and light speckles along its spine.
The tail of this species has not got much fat storage capability, and so it looks very thin in comparison to other types of geckos.
Husbandry
Vivarium
Housing is a very important consideration when thinking about getting a lizard. Helmeted geckos are best housed in a Terrarium or an aquarium.
One male can be housed together with up to four females. The size of the enclosure of a harem of helmeted geckos should be at least 80×45x45cm.
The décor can be as simple or as elaborate as you want. Use sand with a few small pebbles and pieces of cork bark for them to hide under, and one or two patches of sphagnum moss to keep it permanently damp and to raise the humidity slightly. These geckos are part nocturnal and so they like to hide in the day. A simple hide can be made of plastic guttering or hard cardboard tube2.
Lighting and Heating
Although helmeted geckos are nocturnal, they seem to have a high demand for ultra violet (UV), especially babies and sub adults. A full spectrum lighting tube should be placed in the vivarium, and should be switched on for at least twelve hours per day.
The daytime temperature should be around 27-28° C, and a hot spot of about 35° C should be provided. Part of the vivarium must be kept cool to allow them to thermoregulate. At night the temperature should be allowed to fall to 20° C.

Feeding.

Babies should be fed on micro brown crickets, and all adult geckos should be fed medium to large brown crickets. To improve the rapid growth of babies, all food should be dusted with calcium every feed and multi-vitamin should be used twice a week. A shallow water dish should be placed in the vivarium for drinking.

John

Vivarium: Exo Terra PT2614 Glass Terrarium 90×45x60cm 36×18x24 inch (WxDxH).

 Or Vivarium AX36 (L915mm x D406mm x H1216mm.

Lighting: Lights for viewing only for PT-2614 Compact Fluorescent Terrarium Canopy PT-2227 and one bulb PT-2190 Repto Glo 2.0 Compact and one PT-2124 Night Glo Moonlight lamp for night time viewing.

For the AX36 two Arcadia ADH lamp holders & one PT-2104 Neodymium bulb 40w and one PT-2124 Night Glo Lamp for day and night time viewing.

Heating: PT-2047 Ceramic Heat Emitter 150watt & PT-2054 Glow light reflector for the terrarium.

For the AX36: PT-2047 Ceramic Heat Emitter 150watt and ceramic guard.

Pulse proportional Thermostat.

Substrate: Orchid bark or Moss

Décor: PT-2804 X-large water Dish, PT-3040 – PT3052 mix of 4-6+ plants, Vines 4 PT-3082 they need plenty of vines and branches to climb. Bark Cave large.

CARE

Distribution:
Boiga cyanea has a very large distribution; it can be found from Northern India all the way to China where it can be found in Kambodscha, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and in parts of the Malay Peninsula.
Habitat:
Boiga cyanea occurs in many different habitats found both at sea level and all the way up into the highlands up to 2100m. It is almost completely arboreal and can be found in small low shrubs, as well as the much taller trees. They are frequently found in close proximity to water and often in or around planted fields. Their coloration gives them excellent camouflage making them very difficult to find. These beautiful snakes are nocturnal hunters and spend most of the daylight hours curled up in a tree hole or entwined on branches or in the forks of tree branches. When active at night they are extremely fast and eagerly hunt down small lizards, small birds and possible small rodents.
Description:
Boiga cyanea reaches 90-150cm when adult, though specimens of 2m are not unknown. Its adult coloration is a beautiful green with a bluish cast to it. The belly is white to a light yellow. The eyes are a blue turquoise with catlike elliptical (vertical) pupils. Hence the common name of “Green Headed Blue Eyed Catsnake”. Juveniles are totally different the body from the neck to the tail is red-brown, the head is emerald green, the lips edged yellow, and the inside of the mouth is black. The eyes are large and seem to stick out at the side of the head and the brightest blue. It takes them from 8-14 months to go from the juvenile colouring to the adult going through greyish-red body coloration.
Venom:
The poison of Boiga cyanea resembles that of other Boigas, though it is usually much weaker than say that of the better known Boiga dendrophila. A bite from Boiga cyanea is normally of no problem to adult humans and is no worse then a bee or wasp sting. It can be dangerous if the person bitten has an allergic reaction to the bite. Boiga cyanea has very small teeth that are right in the back of the throat that you would not normally come into contact with.
Husbandry:
Boiga cyanea does best in as natural as possible vivarium. This should have plenty of branches for climbing with some hiding places; I find two or three tennis balls with a 2″ hole placed around the vivarium works well. They require a temperature of 26-32°C with a nightly drop to 22-24°C. In their natural habitat they are used to a reasonably high humidity so the Vivarium should be in the 60-90% humidity. I have found that this Boiga loves being sprayed with lukewarm water at night when they are active and will drink the water droplets from the walls or plants in the vivarium. I always keep a bowl of water on a small spider heat mat sealed in a plastic bag, which keeps the humidity high. I have also noticed the Boiga bathing and drinking from this bowl.
Feeding:
Boiga cyanea naturally feed on frogs, toads, smaller rodents and also on small birds. In the vivarium it is easier to feed them on small mice. Hatchlings will take pinkie mice though they may have to be assisted by teasing them with the pinkies and making them snap at them. I have had little problem in getting them to feed, though I have found it better to feed in the evenings by hiding the defrost mouse in the branches for them to hunt. With difficult feeders I have found that scenting with a lizard or chick helps, you can also scent with chicken broth or stock.  
Breeding:
A male and female of as near the same size is required, as they are known to be cannibalistic. Also a laying box of moist peat vermiculite or moss is needed for the female to lay her eggs. Eggs are laid approximately 42-50 days after mating and lay 7-14 eggs. The eggs measure 40mm x 25mm when laid. The eggs hatch out in approximately 85 days at 28°C.

Some people have had low hatch rates when the young have not managed to break out of the eggs. The reason for this is that they have been feeding their Boiga on mice and the egg shells have been too thick for the young to be able to break out. Feeding mostly chick bits I have had high hatch rates of 80% +.
Characteristics:
I have found these snakes to be very calm animals though I have had mine since they were hatchlings. I have also heard that they can be very aggressive snakes and will go into attack mode at the drop of a hat. I free handle my snakes as they are so calm and have never shown any aggressiveness even when I have lifted them out of the vivarium and did not notice the milky eyes as they were getting ready to shed.

John Gamesby

www.ValueAquatics.co.uk

Housing

Use a AX36 (for a sub adult to adult) Vivarium these come in Beech, Oak and Walnut. The extra height is required as this snake is mostly arboreal and needs lots of climbing branches and vines. As this vivarium needs to handle high humidity it is best to coat the inside with two or three coats of yacht varnish. When it is dry and no longer smells of varnish seal the inside joints with aquarium silicon sealant.

Lighting

Is for viewing so a PT-2110 Sun Glo Neodymium Lamp A19/60Watt. Spot lamp Guard. The bulb needs a ceramic lamp holder such as the Komodo Ceramic Fitting.

Heating

PT-2047 Ceramic Heat Emitter Heat Wave Lamp 150W or PT-2144 Heat Glo Infra Red Lamp R20/100W (Include a guard for the heat emitter or lamp), combine this with Habistat Pulse Proportional Thermostat set for 78 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a PT-2465 Exo-Terra Dial Thermometer or a PT-2472 We recommend two thermometers PT-2465 place one at each end to show the cool temperature and hot end temperatures to indicate that there is a heat gradient. effect.

Substrate

Aspen or beach chippings are recommended.

Décor

A water bowl will be required a Bark effect Water Bowl medium would be a good choice, use lots of plastic plants PT-3000-PT-3052 branches these will add to the décor and prevent the snake from becoming stressed, A few vines PT-3081-3082 will also help. Finally add three or four good stout branches making sure they are well fixed and cannot fall.

Green Tree Pythons are nocturnal (active at night) and arboreal (tree dwelling), a real gem of the rainforest. This utmost stunning species of snake is very popular among reptile hobbyists. As the name suggests, it is predominantly in green colour. Although some snakes may be yellow or blue with flecks of black, white and yellow colour. Babies are red or yellow with black and white flecks.
There geographical location range from New Guinea, Papua, Iran, Java and reaching as far as the Cape York Peninsula of Australia. With the progress of reptile industry, keeping of this snake is becoming more popular. Somewhat due to skin trade, folk medicine and hunting for food.
Behaviour
Green Tree Python is an arboreal snake with developed prehensile (grasping) tail which helps in movement amongst the branches. The prehensile tail, tight coil and colour of this snake are adaptations which help for life in the treetops. They spend most of the time coiled around branches with head in middle of the coil. This is its normal resting position.
These snakes have thermo-sensory pits along their lips which helps them to notice transformation in temperature. For example, if a warm blooded animal reaches within the range the python can notice the change in the temperature and same if a cold blooded animal reaches within the range. Evidences show that they sleep during the day and ground forage at night.
Variations
The Green Tree Python resembles a lot with a South American emerald tree boa (Corallus caninus). They are found in same ecological environment in their respective countries. Only thing that distinguishes the two is that the tree boas have elongated snout, bigger heads and the appearance of the head is flatter.
The python has a more compact and sculpted head. Unlike the broken line vertebral stripe of the python, the boa has ladder like vertebral markings. This could be an example of convergence between two different species in similar habitats, but remote. Distinctively it is considered to be relatives of amethystine python.
Feeding
Green Tree Python is carnivorous in food habits as are other snakes. In wild they mostly feed on warm blooded animals like birds, lizards and small rodents (rabbits, mice), but in captivity are offered baby chicks and small rats. It is recommended that the item of food should not be larger than the girth of the snake. The girth denotes the widest part of the snake, that is, the middle part of the body.
Hatchling Green Tree Python should be given pinkie mice. They should be fed with appropriate size of one or two food items once a week. As they grow their food size should increase but not the quantity. As an adult, they should be offered larger rat or mouse, but their food intake can be gradually decreased to once every two or three weeks.
Breeding
The female Green Tree Python breeds once a year and is oviparous, or egg-laying. The breeding season is August to December and the eggs are laid in late November to February. The female needs a nesting box for laying eggs, for this she uses either the hole in a tree or amongst tree roots on the ground.
The clutch size is between15-20 eggs, and the leathery-shelled eggs are incubated for about 39 to 65 days, depending on the temperature. The female python coils around the eggs and shivers to raise the temperature of the eggs as well as her body. Newly hatched pythons are typically lemon yellow, but sometimes are brick-red or blue. Hatchlings do not develop the adult green colouring for six to eight months.
Housing
While keeping this snake as a pet, you should construct the vivarium with more natural surroundings. This is aesthetically pleasing as well as it adds to the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its habitat, it will show better feeding response and grows quicker.
A vivarium of 90cm length x 60cm width x 60com height is ample for an adult Green Tree Python. A large housing with natural products and branches stops the snake from becoming overweight and lethargic, other to it, enhances the quality life of the reptile. The resistance power against any viral infections is more developed and helps encounter any late life problems.
Heating and Lighting
Green tree pythons require consistently high daytime temperatures and reasonably warm night-time temperatures if expected to thrive. The ambient temperature within the enclosure should be in the upper 80´s during the day with a localized basking area that approaches (but should not exceed) 90 degrees. In the evenings, temperatures may safely drop as low as 75 degrees with no ill effects, although a few degrees warmer is recommended for younger animals.
Heat can be provided in a number of ways, however, as arboreal snakes that spend little time on the ground, under tank heating pads may be less effective with Chondros than with other species of snake. Instead, ceramic heat emitters, infra-red heat bulbs, and standard basking bulbs are highly recommended primary heat sources. A new development in herp keeping, the radiant heat panel, is also an acceptable alternative, but these devices should always be used in conjunction with a trustworthy thermostat.
Temperature should be monitored regularly with the use of at least 2 high quality thermometers. Ideally, there should be a thermometer placed on both the warmest and coolest ends of the enclosure. This will ensure that the snake has a safe range of temperatures available to it without the risk of overheating or chilling.
While Chondros do not seem to require full spectrum lighting at the level of some basking lizards and turtles, they do benefit from a regular photo-period of 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. A standard fluorescent bulb will suffice however there is some merit to the idea of using low output full spectrum bulbs with these snakes. As mentioned above, UV light is not mandatory, but it may have positive psychological and behavioural effects on the animals over time.
Substrate and Furnishings
The substrate used for green tree pythons should be one that promotes healthy humidity levels, yet is resistant to mould and fungus. Commercially available reptile bark (orchid bark) is a popular choice, as are coconut husk products.
Chondros are arboreal snakes that spend most of their time coiled among horizontal branches. A variety of branches and sticks of varying diameter should be used to furnish the enclosure. Perches should be arranged in such a way to offer the snakes multiple basking options, both high and low, and both near to and far from the heat source.
The inclusion of live or plastic plants helps to maintain a natural setting for your snakes, but additionally provides security for the animals and serves as natural places for water droplets to collect after the terrarium has been misted.
Patches of sphagnum moss are highly recommended, as it will not only act to beautify the enclosure, but will function like a sponge when it gets wet, and slowly release water during the day, subsequently raising the humidity within the cage.
Water and Humidity
Water should always be made available to green tree pythons via a large, sturdy water dish. These pythons will typically drink from the water droplets that form on their coils and perches after being sprayed. However, the addition of a water bowl ensures that the animals always have access to water, and additionally, said bowl will aid in maintaining adequate humidity levels.
In the wild, Chondros live in lush tropical forests, where rain is frequent and humidity levels high. To reproduce this environment in the terrarium, regular misting of the entire contents of the enclosure with room temperature water is necessary.
The watering schedule will vary based on the type of enclosure, ambient humidity where you live, and the substrates used. Until you determine the regimen that works for your specific set-up, consider a twice a day schedule and modify it as needed.
Enough water should be sprayed that the enclosure walls, substrate, perches, and the snake itself have droplets on them. The cage contents should never become soggy, and if that becomes the case, consider spraying less often. Optimally, the substrate should be nearly dry before it is sprayed again.
The skin shedding process is a simple and effective way to gauge whether you have the humidity levels properly adjusted. If your python sheds effortlessly, and the skin comes off in a single piece, then you are doing well. However, if the snake’s skin seems to be flaking off in tiny pieces over the course of several days, you will need to increase humidity levels with more frequent misting and/or a larger water dish.