Equipment

Housing

Vivarium for an adult should be 6’ x 3’ x 6’ LxDxH

Vivarium for a juvenile Vivarium AX48

Lighting

For the AX48 The Komodo Black Dome 21cm and Zoo Med Clamp Lamp Safety Cover 20cm

PT-21897 Repto Glo Compact new 26watt (UV Bulb)

Heating

For AX48 PT-2046 ceramic heat emitter 100watt.

The Komodo Black Dome 14cm and Zoo Med Clamp Lamp Safety Cover 14cm

Habistat Pulse Proportional Thermostat. With day night setting

PT- 2472 Digital Thermometer

PT- 2477 Digital Hygrometer

Décor

For AX48 Strong branches well secured and vines PT-3080-PT-3082. Plenty of plants select from our range PT-3000 to PT- 3053.

A large water bowl needs to be kept in the vivarium and the water changed daily as they defecate in the water. Something like a strong cat litter tray half filled, this also helps keep the humidity up.

Substrate: moss and or Orchid bark

Care

Species, Range and Description

P. cocincinus. Eastern and south-eastern Thailand, eastern Indochina, southern China.

P. lesueurii. Eastern/south-eastern Australia (Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria)

Water dragons are native to the Southeast Asian mainland and Indo-Australian archipelago. Most imports arrive from Thailand or southern China.

Males typically reach 3 feet; females are somewhat smaller. Males develop larger heads, jowls and crest on the back of the neck, and their femoral pores are somewhat larger than on the female.

Always have new animals checked by a vet for internal and external parasites (take a fresh faecal sample if you can – or get one to the vet at the soonest opportunity), hydration, nutritional status and overall health.

Captive Environment

You will need a large vivarium, one larger than most people think will be needed by a lizard of this size. The reason most are missing much of their faces, rubbed off from the snout back past the front teeth, is that water dragons will literally rub their flesh off and break their jaw bones trying to get out of a too small enclosure. They need space at least 2 x their total length – so you are talking min 6 ft long (side to side), at least 2-3 feet deep and 4-6 feet high to do it correctly.

Water dragons can be kept together, with one to three males in a room-sized enclosure. Some females can be domineering and may not want any other females around…others can co-habit with 3-4 females. You must monitor them all the time to assure all are feeding and basking properly throughout the year. If any are not, you are most likely seeing the results of intimidation and will need to increase the number of basking and feeding areas and/or increase vivarium size or separate them.

Water dragons are semi-arboreal but also need enough water to submerge and swim comfortably in, as well as branches for climbing, and plenty of ground area for roosting and feeding. They also need the appropriate thermal gradients, photoperiods, and a UVB light.

Substrate

Mixture of 2/3 peat soil + 1/3 clean sand with areas of bark. They can also be kept keep on fake Astroturf. They have very active digestive systems so lots of messy poop if they do not go in their water.

Branches

Placed on the diagonal for climbing, horizontal for roosting.

Plants

Suggestions for suitable live plants include dragon plants (Dracaena), Pothos (Scindapsus aureus), Ficus benjamina trees, Monstera deliciosa (philodendron) and Staghorn ferns. Plants will need to be replaced or rotated as they are shredded by claws or even eaten.

Temperature

Day time: 84-88° F with drop to 75-80° F at night. Must have a basking area going up to 90° F during day at one side of vivarium. Use thermometers! No hot rocks – use overhead basking lights and an under-tank heat pad or one under the indoor/outdoor carpeting substrate.

UVB Lighting

Must have direct sun or a suitable UVB-producing lights.

Water

Must be available at all times for full body immersions up to at least 1/2 their height. Must be cleaned and disinfected daily…two days okay if they do not defecate in it! If they dive into their water from a shelf or branch, you need to make the tub deeper so they do not injure themselves.

Feeding

Hatchlings and Juveniles:

2-3 week old crickets and or small locusts which have been previously gut-loaded (e.g., not straight from the pet store!) Also offer finely chopped vegetables and fruits (see iguana salad ingredients for a healthy salad). As the dragons grow, offer only slightly bigger crickets, Locusts and add in some mealworms and baby (pink) mice, and occasionally a waxworm for a treat. Smaller food items are more nutritious and more efficiently digested than fewer bigger items. Feed every 2 days – or more often if they look hungry.

Adults:

Small mice, 4 week old crickets, winged Locusts, Morio (giant mealworms) as well as plant matter. Feed every 2-3 days – or more often if they look hungry. Also feed plant matter, such as greens and fruits (see iguana salad for recipe).

Miscellaneous Care Issues

Claw tips may be clipped.

Water dragons, like sailfin lizards, can be held but they do not like to be clasped. Hold gently with your hand held loosely cupped around them.

Common Ailments in Captivity – caused by captive environment

Abscesses – infections due to injuries or stress

Internal Parasites (filthy import and pet trade conditions) (see below)

Metabolic Bone Disease (Calcium Deficiency due to- poor diet, inadequate UVB and/or heat

Rostral/Snout Damage – too small an enclosure

Stomatitis (Mouth rot) – snout damage, systemic infection due to improper environment or stress

Swollen/Infected Limbs – fractures due to MBD or getting caught in inappropriate tank setups.

Articular/Periarticular/Pseudo Gout – improper foods and insufficient hydration

Respiratory Infection – inadequate heat; stress

Gastroenteritis – protozoan, bacterial or worm infections (see below)

Diet-related Parasitic and Protozoan Infections

Gastrointestinal parasites may inhabit the mouth, coming from infected prey or from regurgitated prey that brings up parasites from lower down in the intestinal tract. The parasites live out parts of their life cycle within the intermediate or primary host, taking up residence in and migrating through different organs and systems. Many such parasites come from fish and amphibians that are used by the parasite as intermediate hosts during their life cycle. Some of these parasites, such as Rhabdias spp. may cause abscesses within the mouth or may migrate to the lungs. These are commonly found in garter snakes (Thamnophis spp.), grass snakes (Natrix spp.), and water snakes (Nerodia spp.), and other reptile species fed primarily on fish. The reptiles themselves may be treated with levamisole at 10 mg/kg sq. Feeder fish may also be treated, left to swim for 24 hours in a gallon of water mixed with 250 mg of levamisole.

A protozoan infection due to amoeba is a problem world-wide and can cause serious health complications and mortality, including in captive reptiles. The cysts are ingested either through eating an infected reptile’s faeces or that of some other infected animal, such as wastes from feeder animals. Once in the gastrointestinal tract, the amoeba becomes active (trophozoites), and start reproducing by binary fusion. They start invading the mucosal lining of the GI tract, get into the blood, and spread through out the body through tissues and organs. Some trophozoitesr are transformed into cysts which are then excreted in the faeces, waiting to be ingested by another host. Faecal smears are required to visualize cysts and trophozoites; cysts can be found using faecal flotation, with faecal samples containing mucous or blood being the most likely to contain the cysts.

An interesting note… The most common – and pathogenic – amoeba in reptiles is Endamoeba invadens. Some reptiles (crocodiles, box turtles, garter snake, Northern black racer) may serve as a reservoir for this protozoan, carrying it and spreading cysts through their faeces but not themselves showing any signs of illness. Certain reptile families seem to be particularly susceptible to dysentery from E. invadens infections (boids, crotalids, elapids, viperids, varanids), with giant tortoises as water snakes being most susceptible. This can be a problem in captive collections where enclosures are set up to house aquatic or terrestrial turtles and semi-aquatic or terrestrial lizards, such as sliders and water dragons. Accurate amoeba identification is essential as other amoebas are not pathogenic in reptiles. If a faecal sample is not available, a colonic wash may be used to acquire a specimen for testing.

Post-mortem exams of reptiles killed by E. invadens and other pathogenic amoebae reveal inflammation, ulceration, or necrosis of the gastrointestinal tract or colon. The intestinal wall may be thickened with necrotic membranes. The bowel may be so involved that it is apparent that ingests was not passed through in some time, which would be consistent with antemortem wasting, anorexia, and bloating. If spread through the blood stream, the liver, kidneys and other organs may contain abscesses, necrotic areas, and evidence general inflammation.

Amoebic infections are treatable once they are identified as such and the infection is detected and treatment started before tissue and organ damage is advanced. Maintaining proper environmental temperatures, exercising proper hygiene and quarantine procedures, and ensuring the infected reptiles are adequately hydrated will help increase survival rates.

John

Vivarium VX36 is big enough to house a trio of Rankins. The more you keep then obviously the bigger the tank needs to be.

Lighting/Heating

For the VX36 2 x Arcadia ADCH Reptile ceramic lamp holders & bracket. With PT-2133 Sun Glo basking spot lamp 100watt and PT-2189 Repto Glo 10.0 compact new 26watt.

The UV bulb should be no more than 10” above your Rankins; you can place a branch under the bulb where it can climb onto, to reach the UVA-B rays. Change the light every year as the light quality breaks down dramatically after nine months, reducing the benefit to your Rankins.

You will need a Dimming thermostat. Use the thermostat for the heating/basking lamp PT-2133. This should be put on a timer or only turned on during daylight hours 10-12, hours a day.

We recommend two thermometers PT-2465 place one at each end to show the cool temperature and hot end temperatures to indicate that there is a heat gradient effect.

Substrate

For baby Rankins we recommend kitchen paper, wallpaper backing paper or newspaper for the first year. As they can get compaction of the gut by ingesting substrates, like Calci sand, Desert sand, peat, beach chips etc. After a year old the best substrates are peat and playpen sand 1:1, Calci sand, beach chippings.

Décor

Use a PT-2803 Exo Terra Water Dish Large. Most Rankins will drink and play in the water bowl and should also be sprayed twice a day (keep the spray away from the bulbs. The water bowl should be kept at the cool end to avoid excessive humidity. Use a PT-2813 Exo Terra Feeding Dish X Large for more than one Rankins and a PT-2811 Exo Terra Feeding Dish Medium for one. Use the bowl to feed their greens and vegetables. Use a large piece of Cork bark tube as a hide out or a PT-2852 hideout cave for a baby Rankins to sleep in. Make sure it is large enough for them. Branches (Bog wood etc.)Branches need to be strong and sturdy. Fruit tree branches are good but not cherry as it is poisonous as are conifer branches. Scrub them clean with hot soapy water, rinse and allow to dry. Bog wood and drift wood are good. Large basking rocks. A large piece of sandstone placed under the basking spot light is a good addition. This holds the heat and helps them to digest the food properly. Place a thermometer on the rock or branch that is to be used for basking and adjust the thermostat until it reads about 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Artificial plants. PT-3000-3052 these are just for decoration and make the vivarium looks more natural. Choose a selection of plants and vines to give your Vivarium that finished look!

CARE

Rankins originate from Australia; as juveniles, they are semi-arboreal. As adults, they are more terrestrial, but will climb to bask and search for prey. Rankins can occupy a large range of habitats from the desert to dry forest and scrubland. Rankins Grow to 10” males and 12” inches from nose to tail.

Rankins are amongst the tamest of all lizards, and their outgoing personalities, activity level, appetites and interesting social behaviors make them a very captivating lizard to observe.

Vitamins

T-268 Tetra Fauna Reptocal or Nutrobal Many reptiles require a diet based on live or fresh foods, due to their specific feeding habits. These are readily available, but in themselves do not offer a balanced supply of nutrients. To ensure your pet receives a properly balanced diet, it is important to increase the nutrient content of these foods with a nutrient supplement.

Rankins Dragons are a dwarf species of Pogona originating from inland Northeast Australia. They normally only grow to about 10 inches long from head to tail.

They are softer looking than the Bearded Dragon with less acute angles and relatively small beards.

Rankins are friendly and sociable and can be kept in groups.

Housing

A 36″ x 18″ x 24″ is big enough to house a pair of Rankins. The more you keep then obviously the bigger the tank needs to be. They like to climb so make sure to put some logs or branches in the tank and some rocks for them to bask on. They also love to dig so a substrate like Calci sand is ideal.

Several basking sites should be provided under the hot spot and the UV lighting. Rankins Dragons need to bask and they need high temperatures to help with the digestive process. Basking area should be about 90-100 degrees Fahrenheit with an ambient temperature of 75F and then dropping to about 65F at night time.

Rankins Dragons need to have UV running along the top of the vivarium. In the wild they bask in the sun to absorb the vitamins from their food. Obviously in a tank they won’t receive much sun so a UV will act as the sun. Rankins Dragons need to tell the difference between night and day, to do this you need to have your UV bulb on for 12 hours and off for 12 hours. The UV must be within 12″ of the dragon to enable it to get the full benefit of the UV bulb. Your UV bulb will need to be changed once a year as it loses its efficiency. You will need a ceramic heating bulb and a pulse thermostat to control the temperature of the tank. You will also need a thermometer inside the tank so that you can check they are being kept at the right temperature. Some people use 2 thermometers, one at the cooler end and one at the hotter end to monitor the temperature range. If you use only one thermometer then place it in the middle of the tank towards the bottom.

Never use hot rocks, as they are widely known to cause belly burns.

Feeding

Rankins Dragons like fruit and vegetables as well as meat. They like a large variety of live insects, which include black and brown crickets, locusts, mealworms and wax worms. A good measure of the size of live insects to feed is that they must not be bigger than the size of the dragon’s head. Do not feed mealworms to baby dragons as they contain chitin which is hard to digest. Do not feed them insects from your garden, as you do not know if they have been sprayed with anything that can be harmful to your dragon. Fresh fruit and vegetables must be offered daily and remember that they like variety. Try to avoid spinach and kale as they are calcium binders and affect the dragon’s bones. Another thing to avoid is iceberg lettuce, as this has no nutritional value to the dragon. Make sure to chop the food into small bite size pieces to avoid choking.

Rankins Dragons require extra calcium for their bones to remain strong and to develop at the normal rates. They also need extra Vitamin D3; this vitamin is needed just as much as calcium. This vitamin is needed for your dragon’s body to absorb the calcium.

All you need to do to maintain your Rankins Dragon is to dust your live food every other day with a vitamin and mineral supplement like Nutrobal.

Some Rankins love water so offer fresh water daily in a shallow bowl. If they do not drink from the bowl then offer them a spray of water on the end of their nose until they finish drinking. Also give the cage a mist spray once a day.

Housing

Use an AX24 Vivarium these come in Beech, Oak and Walnut. The extra height is required as this snake is mostly arboreal and needs lots of climbing branches and vines. As this vivarium needs to handle high humidity it is best to coat the inside with two or three coats of yacht varnish. When it is dry and no longer smells of varnish seal the inside joints with aquarium silicon sealant.

Lighting

Is for viewing so a PT-2110 Sun Glo Neodymium Lamp A19/60Watt. Spot lamp Guard . The bulb needs a ceramic lamp holder such as the Komodo Ceramic Fitting.

Heating

Use either an Infra Red Bulb 75w and a Habistat dimmer thermostat or a ceramic heat emitter 60w and a Habistat pulse proportional thermostat. Use an appropriate safety guard with the bulb or ceramic heat emitter.

Use a PT-2465 Exo-Terra Dial Thermometer or a PT-2472 We recommend two thermometers PT-2465 place one at each end to show the cool temperature and hot end temperatures to indicate that there is a heat gradient effect.

 Substrate

Aspen or beach chippings are recommended.

Décor

A water bowl will be required a Bark effect Water Bowl medium would be a good choice, use lots of plastic plants PT-3000-PT-3052 branches these will add to the decor and prevent the snake from becoming stressed, A few vines PT-3081-3082 will also help. Finally add three or four good stout branches making sure they are well fixed and cannot fall.

Further Information for an Amazon Tree Boa

 CARE

Amazon Tree Boas are also known as Garden Tree Boas, Garden Boas and Common Tree Boas. They are an arboreal (live in trees) species and can be found throughout South America. Their basic colours can be anything from black, brown or grey to any shade of red, orange, yellow or any colour in between. Some are devoid of pattern whilst others may be speckled, banded or have a chevron shape pattern. The combinations with patterns and colours are endless.

Housing

The vivarium for an Amazon must be able to handle humidity. Vivariums that have too much ventilation will allow the humidity to dry up too quickly. Vivariums without enough ventilation may develop fungal and bacterial growth and the snake may become ill. When spraying the vivarium make sure you do not spray any bulbs especially ceramic heat emitters. It is also important to have some type of perches/branches. Amazons like the bigger chunks of driftwood as they like to lie in a nook or on a flat or broad section of wood. They seem to be more comfortable when several points of their body are in contact with some sort of surface. It is not uncommon for captive bred Amazons to spend a portion of their time coiled up on the vivarium floor. Temperatures for Amazons should be kept at 80 to 82 degrees during the day time with a drop to about upper 70´s for night time. To maintain the humidity it is advisable to spray the cage twice a day perhaps morning and afternoon then this will allow the cage to dry out overnight. The humidity will rise immediately following a spray and will reach 80 – 90% but will then fall until the next spray. Making sure that the animal is misted on daily basis will assist with the shedding process.

Feeding

On the whole Amazons are normally problem free as far as feeding goes; however, there are sometimes the picky eaters. Warmed prey is very rarely refused. It is advisable to feed the snake out of the cage, as it will then, not associate your hand going into the cage as food. Do not feed prey that is too large for the snake as regurgitation may occur. Try to keep the prey size to the diameter of the thickest part of the snake’s body. As most snakes, they will go off their food when they are due to shed.

General Information

They are a lovely snake to own. Being arboreal they are a brilliant display snake in that they can normally be seen during the day coiled up on a branch and at night they are out and about searching for prey or just hanging still from a branch waiting for something nice to eat to walk by. Handle them little and often and be very careful as they have a habit of unwinding backwards and can be very fast.

 John G
www.valueaquatics.co.uk

To house a single/pair of adults we would recommend a Vivarium such as the Viv EX55 55×23x24”, for a single Bearded Dragon we would recommend a 48”x18”x20 Viv Exotic VX48 as an absolute minimum. 

Lighting

For the VX48 & EX55. PT-2054 reflector and the UV Bulb PT-2189 Repto Glo compact new 26watt,
The UV tube should be no more than 10” above your Bearded Dragon, you can place a branch under the UV where it can climb onto to reach the UVA-B rays. Change the bulb year as the light quality breaks down dramatically, reducing the benefit to your Bearded Dragon.

Heating.
Use a PT-2138 Sun Glo Tight beam Basking spot lamp S20/100Watt. This gives the Bearded Dragon a hot spot that it requires so that it can digest its food.
Use a PT2054 Glo Light 21 cm. The Exo Terra Glow Light gives you the versatility of placing heat and/or light sources in your Vivarium where needed.
You will need a Dimming thermostat. Use the thermostat for the heating/basking lamp PT2138. This should be put on a timer or only turned on during daylight hours 10-12, hours a day.
(If the room is cold at night less than 35f) Use an Algarde Heat Mat 23×11” for either of the Vivariums. Place under the basking area and leave running 24/7. This gives some background heating for the night time. I would put the heat mat on a thermostat as well as an insurance against overheating.

Lighting/Heating Mercury vapour lamp Exo Terra solar Glo then use with PT2056 Glow Light 10” clamp lamp and a guard. With this you do not need a thermostat.

Substrate

For baby dragons we recommend wallpaper, backing paper or newspaper for the first year. As they can get compaction of the gut by ingesting substrates, like Calci sand, sand, peat, corn cob, beach chips etc.

After a year old the best substrates are peat and playpen sand 1:1, Calci sand, beach chippings.

 Decor

Use a PT-2803 Exo Terra Water Dish Large for adults and a PT-2802 Exo Terra Water Dish Medium for younger Dragons. Most Dragons do not drink from a bowl and should be sprayed twice a day, but a few do so a water bowl is recommended and should be used and the water changed daily. The water bowl should be kept at the cool end to avoid excessive humidity
Use a PT-2813 Exo Terra Feeding Dish X Large for adults and a PT-2811 Exo Terra Feeding Dish Medium for Youngsters. Use the bowl to feed their greens and vegetables.
Use a large piece of Cork bark tube of a PT-2852 hide cave for a baby dragon to sleep in. Make sure it is large enough for them.
Branches (Bog wood etc.)Branches need to be strong and sturdy. Fruit tree branches are good but not cherry as it is poisonous as are conifer branches. Scrub them clean with hot soapy water, rinse and allow to dry. Bog wood and drift wood are good.
Large basking rocks. A large piece of sandstone placed under the basking spot light is a good                         addition. This holds the heat and helps them to digest the food properly. Place a thermometer on the rock or branch that is to be used for basking and adjust the thermostat until it reads about 100 degrees Fahrenheit.
Artificial plants. PT-3000-3052 these are just for decoration and make the vivarium look more natural. I would say three plastic plants and a vine PT-3082

 Vitamins T-268 Tetra Fauna Reptocal or Nutrobal + a Calcium powder. Many reptiles require a diet based on live or fresh foods, due to their specific feeding habits. These are readily available, but in themselves do not offer a balanced supply of nutrients. To ensure your pet receives a properly balanced diet, it is important to increase the nutrient content of these foods with a nutrient supplement. 

CARE

Bearded dragons originate from Australia; as juveniles they are semi-arboreal. As adults, they are more terrestrial, but will climb to bask and search for prey. Bearded Dragons can occupy a large range of habitats from the desert to dry forest and scrubland.

Dragons are not either the smallest or the largest of the lizard family and are known to grow on average 18-24 inches from nose to tail.

Bearded dragons are amongst the tamest of all lizards, and their outgoing personalities, activity level, appetites and interesting social behaviours make them a very captivating lizard to observe. They have a very rapid growth rate, so the 4″ hatchlings can grow to their adult size within a year.

Most bearded dragons adapt easily to handling and are calm enough to perch on their owner’s shoulder, or be placed on a countertop, or enjoy the view from a windowsill.

Housing

The minimum size vivarium for up to 2 adult dragons should be 48″ x 24″ x 24″ but I would recommend something bigger. A basking site should be provided under the hot spot and include UV lighting. Bearded Dragons need to bask and they need high temperatures to help with the digestive process. A basking area should be about 100 degrees Fahrenheit with an ambient temperature of 75F and then dropping to about 65F at night-time.

Bearded Dragons need to have UV running for 10-14 hours a day. In the wild they bask in the sun to help with the digestion and the production of vitamin D. Obviously in a Vivarium they will not receive that much UV so a UV source is essential. Bearded Dragons need a photoperiod (to tell the difference between night and day), to do this you need to have your UV bulb on for 10-14 hours. The UV must be within 10″ of the bearded Dragon to enable the dragon to get the full benefit of the UV tube. The UV source will need to be changed once a year as it loses its efficiency. A ceramic heat emitter or a spot Basking bulb and a Pulse Proportional thermostat for the ceramic or Dimming for the basking bulb, to control the temperature of the vivarium. A thermometer inside the vivarium is a good idea so that you can check they are being kept at the right temperature. Some people use 2 thermometers, one at the cooler end and one at the hotter end to monitor the temperature range. If you use only one thermometer then place it in the middle of the tank towards the bottom.

A UV and Heat source that is becoming more popular is the Mercury vapour lamps like the Exo Terra Sun Glo. These bulbs do not work with a thermostat so to get the correct basking temperature you simply raise or lower the lamp.

A substrate is known as the material to line the bottom of the tank and these can range from newspaper, bark, and sand for reptiles.

Feeding

Their stomachs are large enough to accommodate large quantities of food. Young Bearded Dragons do not eat as much vegetation as their adult counterparts. As a Bearded Dragon ages it may be persuaded to eat less animal matter and more plants, maybe levelling off at around an 80% plant and 20% insect diet.

Popular feeder insects include crickets, cockroaches, locusts, silkworms, and Locusts. The mealworms have a fairly hard chitin (exoskeleton) and is generally low in the “meat to chitin” ratio, as well as having a poor calcium/phosphorus ratio, making it far less nutritious than other feeder insects. Chitin is hard enough that large amounts of it can cause impaction in the Bearded Dragons digestion system, and can lead to death, especially in younger and smaller animals. But as given As A treat are not a problem Waxworms and Morio worms can be given as a treat also, but sparingly as in most cases as they are extremely fatty, and in some cases very addictive. Although they can be useful in building-up an undernourished individual. The rule of thumb on feeder insects is that the food fed to the animal must not be larger than the space between the eyes; feeding something larger could make it hard for the animal to swallow the food and can lead to the aforementioned fatal impaction.

A significant portion of the Bearded Dragons diet may consist of leafy greens. Dragons enjoy many types of readily available greens, including Water cress, Kale, spring greens (occasionally), escarole, dandelion greens, & flowers, parsley, and carrot tops. It is also recommended that this portion of the dragon’s diet be supplemented with a variety of finely diced fruits and vegetables. Feeding a mixture of these plants ensures a wider variety of nutrients, and variations in texture to aid digestion.

Calcium should be added (a light sprinkling) to the food every day and added vitamins every two or three days. This is to boost the calcium for good bones and to add to top up the missing vitamins that is lacking in their diet.

Light & Heat

Bearded Dragons bask most of the day, absorbing the heat they need to digest their food. It is important that there are at least one or two good basking spots in the Dragons habitat. Rocks are preferable to logs as they hold heat better, though logs can also provide stimulation for the animal as they will climb up and down it any item taken from the outside must first be boiled or baked, however, to remove contaminants. A habitat should also include something the Dragon can hide under.

Bearded Dragons also need correct lighting. A UVB light is needed, with two options being available, Fluorescent strip bulbs, bulbs or mercury vapour lamps. These bulbs have variable ranges of UVB output; owners must ensure proper distance from bulb to the basking spot so the lizard can properly absorb the rays. Bulbs are typically replaced every 6 months. Without adequate UVB the Dragon will develop Metabolic Bone Disease and not eat as much. A Dragon needs between 12 and 14 hours of daylight; much less or more causes problems with their circadian rhythms and makes them lethargic and sick.

For heating, Bearded Dragons need bright white light during the day. Some owners use a red Infra red light at night for heating; this provides heat and you will be able to see it. It is unknown if this red light is visible to bearded dragons. Another option for maintaining temperatures at night is a Ceramic heat emitter or heat mat.

Temperature is one of the most important health factors. A bearded dragon needs the correct temperature to digest, so a good thermometer is essential. Analogue, Round, stick-on, and other non-digital thermometers do not measure basking temperature properly as they do not measure the actual basking spot, just the temperature of the air or glass. A digital thermometer with a probe or a Dial thermometer. Temps need to be 40C-43C (105F-110F) [basking spot] during day and 15C-26C (60F-80F) at night (the higher end of this range for babies, the lower portion of the range for adult Dragons). If the dragons do not receive the proper heat they will become lethargic, and they will eat less. Eventually the lack of proper heating will become fatal.

Substrate

 This is another very important factor in keeping a healthy Dragon. Babies and juveniles are particularly at risk of impaction and are often kept on paper towels or newspaper, as they are easy to dispose of and clean up after, and there is no risk of the baby ingesting substrate. Tile is another popular choice, as is reptile carpet and also non adhesive shelf liner. As the Dragon gets older (about 8-12 months) it can be put on finely sifted playpen sand. Calcium sand is often used, but is also reported to be a cause of impaction due to ´clumping´ in the gut if ingested, while play sand will pass straight through a well fed individual. Rabbit food pellets, made of alfalfa also Bran are both recommended choices by most breeders as they are indigestible and also easy to clean. Walnut Shells should never be used; though they are natural they cannot be digested and are highly likely to cause impaction. Wood chips, and anything else of that sort are never to be used. They are large, with sharp edges, and can be swallowed. They are not digestible, however, and will swell and clog the gut, causing a very painful and potentially fatal impaction.

Also places for shade might be useful.

General Information

Natural sunlight is very beneficial and should be provided if possible. Bearded dragons should never be placed outside in a glass enclosure. The animal could easily overheat and die.

Bearded Dragons live for an average of 4-10 years depending on their quality of lives, if they have had good lighting and temperatures maintained as well as a good balanced diet then you could expect your dragon to live longer than a dragon that has not. But if you have a female that has been repeatedly bred then her life span can be expected to be quite short.

Bearded Dragons will keep you amused for a long time. Just observing and interacting with them is fascinating. There are 2 things that the Beardy does; one is to nod its head (which is a sign of dominance) and the other is the arm waving (this is a sign of submissive behaviour). When they sit with open mouths this is their way of cooling down their body temperature

It is not advisable to keep two males together as they will fight; more so if a female is present. If you would like to keep more than one Beardy then make sure that there is only one male in the cage.

Do not mix other reptiles with Bearded Dragons, as it is an accident/fatality waiting to happen.

www.valueaquatics.co.uk
John

Housing: Fer-Plast H43 Geo Flat Plastic Tank

Heating: Algard Heat Mat 6 x 11”  Place under half the cage. Make sure it does not get too hot.

Substrate:  Orchid Bark

Décor: Bark Cave small. Keep some damp moss in this.

Housing: Fer-Plast H43 Geo Flat Plasti Tank

Heating: Algard Heat Mat 6 x 11”  Place under half the age. Make sure it does not get too hot.

Substrate:  Orchid Bark

Décor: Bark Cave small Keep some damp moss in this.

Emperor Scorpion
(Pandinus imperator)

The Emperor Scorpion is a very large, impressive, and hardy scorpion from tropical Africa. Wild-caught specimens are usually collected in Togo and Ghana. It is also the one of the only species of scorpion that is known to be handled, yet this is not recommended. These scorpions are popular animals in scary movies, because they are big, black, and they can have close contact with actors. The venom is used infrequently, and is generally not harmful to humans. Emperor Scorpions have been traditionally kept in groups of three or more, as long as they are provided with enough food, but it is suggested to keep them in separate tanks. If there are a group of scorpions in a tank, many times fights break out for the same cricket, even if there are other crickets still left in the tank! As with most arachnids, it is important to keep your scorpion away from direct UV light. This species is especially sensitive to UV light, and such exposure will cause stress and ultimately death. Emperor Scorpions are a marvel of the “bug”-keeping world, and continue to impress collectors with their size and beauty. If you are choosing a scorpion, the Emperor Scorpion won´t let you down.

Other Names Imperial Scorpion.

Range Tropical rainforests of West Africa.

Type Terrestrial, but will burrow to some extent.

Diet Babies eat pinhead crickets, and other small insects. Adults eat crickets, mealworms, other large insects, and an occasional pinkie mouse.

Full Grown Size4.5 to 6 inches.

Growth Medium speed.

Temperature75 to 82° F.

Humidity75 to 80%. Adults may drink from a shallow, wide water dish.

Temperament Docile and calm.

Housing: Fer-Plast H43 Geo Flat Plastic Tank or 24″ x 12″ x 12″ aquarium

Heating: Algarde Heat Mat 6 x 11” Place under half the tank. Habistat mat stat thermostat to make sure it does not over heat

Substrate:  Orchid Bark with moss covering to keep the humidity up.

Décor: Bark Cave small, medium to large Keep some damp moss in this

Thermostat, Hydrometer.

Goliath Bird Eating Spider (Theraphosa blondi)

The Goliath Bird-eating Spider is one of the world’s largest species of spider. Its impressive size makes it a popular species in most collections. Unfortunately, it is rarely bred. Most specimens that are available are imported from the wild. Though captive bread spiderlings are now appearing on the market.

This hairy coffee-coloured beast is unmistakable. The sheer size of this spider definitely attracts attention but it is not the friendliest critter. The Goliath Bird-eating Spider is aggressive and will attack.

It is a solitary animal and needs to be housed alone. Being a big bulky burrow-dweller, it should be offered a large enclosure with deep, damp substrate. Although this setup allows minimal interaction by the keeper, it does provide the proper conditions for keeping this giant of the spider world healthy. They can be observed at night under a red light as they explore their enclosure for food.

Distribution:
The largest species of tarantula in the world, the Goliath Tarantula (Theraphosa blondi) and the Pink-footed Goliath Tarantula (T. apophysis) are found in Venezuela, Suriname, French Guyana, and Brazil. They are burrowing species. The largest species in the world live in the ground and not in trees (or house rafters). Their extreme size and bulk prevents them from climbing well. The large species in Trinidad, living in trees (and house rafters) is probably an Avicularia species. They are large and fuzzy, but nowhere near the size of their giant cousins.

Description:
This hairy coffee-coloured spider is truly unmistakable. The Goliath Bird-eating Spider is large and very stocky with a broad carapace, thick legs, and a large abdomen. It is a terrestrial species and has evolved to this large, heavy body type living in the humid burrows of the tropical forests of South America. The leg span is usually up to about 10″ (25 cm) but can be up to 12″ (30.5 cm).
Though the male and female are very similar, a mature male will be more slender and long-legged. They mature at about 10 years and can live for up to 25 years.

Care and Feeding:
There is a tendency by keepers to feed their large, aggressive species lots of defrost mice. We suggest feeding the Goliath Bird-eating Spider a diverse diet consisting of adult crickets, locusts and only occasional feedings (once or twice a month) of mice. This variety more closely mirrors the diet of this tarantula in nature and will keep them healthy.

Environment:
As a very large species, the Goliath Bird-eating Spider should be kept in a large enclosure. Use at least a 30-gallon terrarium or the largest plastic sweater box. A substrate of peat moss or cypress mulch works well. A large shelter should be offered in the form of a cork bark “cave” or a half-buried clay pot.
Though they are found in humid tropical forest areas, in captivity it is best to maintain them on the dry side and spray them once or twice a week. A large diameter flat dish with fresh water should be available at all times.

Temperature and Humidity

This species can be maintained at about at 78° to 82° F with a moderate humidity level.

Social Behaviour/Activities:
The Goliath Bird-eating Spiders are very aggressive and best housed singly. They are quick and nervous. They make a hissing noise if they feel threatened by rubbing the bristles on their legs. It can be heard up to 15 feet away. They will also rear up to fling their abdominal hairs and will try to bite when stressed.

Handling:
This species is aggressive / defensive and should not be handled under any circumstances. Its uticating hairs are some of the most irritating of all spiders and its bite can cause damage from the size of the fangs. We suggest using a paint brush or other tool to corral the Goliath Bird-eater when moving it from enclosure to enclosure for cleaning, maintenance, or for breeding attempts.

Breeding/Reproduction:
Mature males are slender and long-legged compared to females and they have no tibial hooks for mating. For successful reproduction, females should be established in a large terrarium with at least 10-12” of substrate. A burrow can be started for them and the females will quickly finish this work and establish a deep burrow in the enclosure. This deep, secure burrow may be the first important step to successfully breeding this species.
Adult males should be carefully introduced into the female’s enclosure after he has produced a sperm web. The male can be protected with a piece of cardboard or other tool if he is to be used for further breeding attempts.
Once mating occurs, the female should be fed more heavily with a variety of prey items. The Goliath Bird-eater Spider will lay about 50 eggs that hatch in six to seven weeks. The spiderlings will stay in the nest until their first moult, and then be on their own.

Ailments:
Tarantulas are generally quite hardy and adaptable if they are provided with the right environment. A few signs that may indicate that your pet is not acting or feeling normal are a loss of appetite, lethargy, looking overly skinny, or pacing the enclosure.
(A tarantula on its back is probably NOT sick.  Most tarantula species flip onto their backs during moulting.  Though this is a very stressful and delicate time for tarantulas, if the humidity and warmth levels are correct, they will moult their exoskeleton, roll over, harden up, and within a week or two be ready for their next meals.)

• Moulting: One of the most common reasons for your pet to demonstrate unusual behaviour is due to a moulting period. As they outgrow their existing skin all tarantulas regularly go through an extensive moult, shedding their entire skin as well as the linings of their mouth, respiratory organs, stomach and sexual organs.
  The process starts well before the actual moult. For several weeks prior to shedding they will be growing a new skin under their old one. During this time it is not unusual for a tarantula to get quite lethargic and even stop eating. There may also be lots of web spinning activity as they prepare to moult.
  When they begin to moult, they lay on their backs with their legs up in the air looking as if they are dead. Be sure not to disturb your tarantula when you see this. The shedding process goes quickly and smoothly as long the environment has adequate humidity.
• Once they have shed, their new skin is pale and very soft. The amount of time it takes for your pet to fully recover and be back to eating well will vary from a day or so up to several weeks depending on its size. Smaller spiders recover much quicker than larger ones.
• Other Problems: Other problems are usually the result of some type of environmental stress. There may be a drop in the temperature of the enclosure, there may be parasites, or the tarantula may just not be comfortable with the depth of its hiding place. These things can be easily adjusted or changed, or you can try moving your pet to a new enclosure.

Housing: 24” x 12” x 12” (LxDxH)Lighting Arcadia Aquarium Control Gear Ultra Seal 18W Arcadia Freshwater Tube 18″ x 1″ 15 Watt
Condensation Tray Clear Plastic 24inh x 12 inch

OR. Arcadia Arc Pod Small Aquarium Light and Condensation Tray Clear Plastic 24inch x 12inh.

Heating: None
Filtration: Fluval 2 Plus Internal Filter or Interpet Powerflow PF2
Air pump: Interpet AV2 Airvolution. Airline and air stone.
Substrate: Aquarium or playpen sand (If sand should only be a fine covering so it can be siphoned out easily as it is fouled).
Décor: Rocks, Bogwood, Live coldwater aquatic plants, artificial plants.

CARE

Common Name: Axolotl, Mexican Salamander, and Water Monster.
Scientific Name: Ambystoma mexicanum.

Distribution: The Xochimilcho and Chalco lakes in central Mexico.
Size: 20-30cm (8-12″).

Life Expectancy: 10-12 years, although an age of 20 years is attainable.
Sexing: Males have more swollen cloacae; females are often plumper when viewed from above.

Varieties: The normal colouration (Wild Type) is dark brown with sooty brown to blackish blotches and spots. Captive breeding has created several colour variants including albino, leucistic, golden-albino, olive, melanoid, melanoid-albino and pied examples

Requirements: These aquatic Salamanders are rather large and require a large aquarium. A 24” x 12” x 12” tank would be adequate for 2 adults. They require a totally aquatic set-up with a substrate of gravel or sand. Furnishings such as large pebbles and aquatic plants can be arranged to provide a number of hiding places. The water should be clean de-chlorinated water at a depth of 15-30cm (6-12″). The water will need to be filtered using a submersible power filter to avoid the build up of ammonia and bacteria in the water, and partial water changes should be carried out at weekly intervals. It is also a good idea to lightly oxygenate the water with the use of an air-stone. Axolotl’s require a water temperature of 10-25°C, and a low wattage fluorescent tube should be used as a light source.
Feeding: Juvenile Axolotl’s should be fed daily with a mixture of suitably sized insects including Daphnia, mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, tubifex, earthworms and whiteworms. Adult Axolotl’s should be fed every other day with a mixture of earthworms, slugs, mealworms, maggots, small fish, chunks of raw meat & aquatic amphibian pellets.

Housing: Fer Plast H43 Geo Flat Plasti Tank Large 467 x 305 x 175mm (18” x 12” x 7”)
Lighting:  Arcadia Arc Pod Small Aquarium Light.
Heating: None
Filtration : Powerflow PF mini
Substrate: Gravel
Décor: Floating Island, Turtle Dock Rocks, Bogwood, Live coldwater aquatic plants, artificial plants.

CARE

Housing
Housing for fire bellied newts is not difficult to provide, but a few things should be kept in mind. In the wild these newts are largely aquatic, but they should be provided with a land area which they can climb out on to rest and bask (the occasional odd fire bellied newt will spend a fair amount of time on land). And while they do not need a huge tank, keep in mind that the larger the volume of water they live in, the less chance of toxic waste products building up to a harmful level.
For a few newts (3-4), a 20 gallon tank should be sufficient. The land area can be provided by sloping gravel up to one end of the tank, or sectioning off a land area with Plexiglas set in place with aquarium grade silicone. Rocks, moss, and pieces of bark can be used to make a land area with hiding places if desired. However, for the majority of newts, a floating island of wood or rocks (which should be fairly smooth to prevent damaging delicate skin on newt bellies) is sufficient for a land area.
The bottom of the tank can be lined with smooth gravel, which should be large enough that the newts can not swallow it. Provide lots of plants (the live ones are nicer than plastic and easy to care for, although a fluorescent light fixture with a plant bulb should be provided).
Filtration should be provided, although strong currents are best avoided. Inside corner filters (the kind powered by air) work well, as they create little current. Internal power filters are also a good choice, as long as they are not too powerful and positioned so as to minimize the current produced. Under gravel filters are also a good option.
Fire bellied newts do best at temperatures on the cool side – they tolerate room temperature (70 F/21 C) but will be happier at slightly lower temperatures – 68 F (20 C) or a bit lower are more ideal. At temperatures around 75 F (24 C) or higher, they will be stressed and susceptible to infections, particularly fungal infections. Keeping a tank in the basement is a good way to maintain lower temperatures. Unless you have air conditioning, keeping the tank cool enough may be more of a concern than providing heat. In hot weather, placing a fan over the tank, or letting ice (made with dechlorinated water, of course) drip into the tank may be an option if your house temperature is too high for the newts.
Approximately 1/3 of the volume of water in the tank should be removed and replaced with fresh, dechlorinated water every 1-2 weeks (depending on the size of the tank and the number of newts – it should be done more often for smaller tanks and larger numbers of newts). A gravel washer is an inexpensive tool available at pet stores that allows the gravel to be gently agitated and cleaned while siphoning off water.
Newts should be kept on a light/dark cycle that is regular. 12 hours light/12 hours’ dark is probably sufficient if you are providing light, or simply allow them normal daylight in a well lit room – as long as their tank isn´t in direct sunlight. Newts do not have any requirement for special UV light fixtures, but a low watt fluorescent fixture can be used if you have live plants in the tank. Just make sure the newts have a shaded or sheltered area available in the tank…

Feeding
Depending on your newt, you may have to try a variety of food sources. Bloodworms, frozen or live, seem to a favourite among newt keepers. These (especially the frozen bloodworms) are quite readily available at pet stores. They may also eat earthworms (chopped), brine shrimp, glass shrimp, daphnia, and freeze-dried tubifex cubes. Floating reptile/amphibian sticks such as Repto-Min can also be fed, although many newts refuse them. Larger newts, particularly the larger Japanese fire bellied newt, may also eat feeder guppies if offered.
Fire bellied newts do not have to be fed every day – every other day or every three days is often enough. It may take a little experimentation to figure out how much and how often they should be fed, but you can try to judge by their growth and body condition (fat or skinny) and whether excess food is being left (which will cause toxins to build up in the tank).
These newts are nice for people new to amphibians as pet because they are readily available, and don´t require a lot of specialized care.

Plastic Tank Fer-Plast H40 Geo Flat 14”x 9”x 6”
Lighting: Not needed though a desk lamp over the tank can be used to give a photo period.
Heating: A heat mat 6” x 11” place half the tank on the heat mat. Use a komodo thermostat.
Dial thermometer.
Substrate: Orchid bark in half and moss in the other half . The moss want’s to be 2-3” deep.
Décor: PT-2802 Exo Terra water dish medium.

CARE

This frog is relatively common in the pet trade, and gets its common (pet trade) name from the popular video game. The frog’s generally rounded appearance and huge mouth led to the cute name. The frog’s scientific name is Ceratophrys ornata, and it is also known as the ornate horned frog.
Pacman frogs are native to South America, and are terrestrial in nature. In fact, they are very poor swimmers and care must be taken that they do not drown in their water bowls.
These frogs are quite large, and can reach around 6-7 inches in length (15-17 cm), although males tend to be quite a bit smaller than females. They are generally about as wide as they are long, so are quite hefty for a frog. Their appetite matches their size, and they will pretty much eat anything that moves.
Pacman frogs have a reputation for being somewhat aggressive, which is largely undeserved. While they do sometimes bite, it is usually a case of the frog feeling threatened or simply confusing a finger with a food item.
Housing
Pacman frogs, despite their large size, are not very active and do not need a large cage. A 10 gallon tank is fine for one of these frogs. Because they will often try to eat cage mates, they should be kept singly. A cage top is recommended — although they are not a huge risk for escapes, a cage top will help maintain temperature and humidity.
In the wild they spend much of their time in damp leaf litter. In captivity, the cage can be lined with paper or smooth rocks, as long as leaf litter or moss and some plants (live or artificial) are provided that the frog can burrow/hide in. They come from a humid environment so the substrate should be misted daily to help maintain humidity. In addition a shallow bowl of water should be provided. The dish must be fairly shallow (e.g. a ceramic saucer from a plant pot) to minimize the risk of the frog drowning.
Depending on how humid your tank is, the frog might spend much of its time in its water dish, so providing plants around the dish will help your frog feel secure. The water dish should also be in a warmer part of the cage.
The temperature should be kept around 82 F (28 C) during the day, dropping to around 78 F (25 C) at night. Heating is best supplied by an under tank heater as overhead incandescent bulbs can be too drying (although a red incandescent could be used if supplemental heat is needed at colder times).
For lighting, a fluorescent fixture can be used, although they might prefer more subdued lighting and regular room light may be enough. A 12 hour light – 12 hour dark cycle can be provided. The use of full spectrum lighting for amphibians is somewhat controversial but probably isn’t strictly necessary if a balanced diet is provided. The tank should be away from direct sunlight, to prevent overheating.
Feeding
Pacman frogs are pretty easy to feed in that they are not usually fussy eaters. Smaller frogs can be fed insects such as crickets, Locusts or other common pet store prey insects such as mealworms, wax worms etc. These should be gut loaded prior to feeding. As they grow, they can be fed pinkie (newborn) mice, and larger mice can be fed as the frog grows. Eventually they may take a medium sized mouse or pinkie rat. Guppies, a variety of insects, and even small frogs can also be fed. While small Pacman frogs (eating insects) should be fed daily, larger frogs can be fed mice or feeder fish every 2-3 days. Adult frogs can probably be fed less frequently – the best guide is to feed based on your frog’s body condition (if your frog is getting too round and fat, cut back how often it is fed).
Conclusion
Pacman frogs are not terribly difficult to care for so can make a good pet that is quite attractive and interesting. However, people who like their pets active or interactive may get tired of caring for a Pacman frog. Considering a these frogs can live for 7 -10 years, getting one of these frogs amounts to a long term commitment.

Housing:

Vivarium MODX36 for a youngster increasing with the MODX extensions as it grows.

Lighting:

Lights are for viewing only so an Arcadia vivarium dry Control Gear C5 combined with an Arcadia freshwater Tube 42 inch 36 Watt will be fine.

Heating: Use Pt-2048 Ceramic Heat Emitter 250 Watt, combined with a PT-2062 Porcelain Wire Clamp Lamp Holder and a Pulse Proportional thermostat

OR Microclimate AHS 500 Heater/Thermostat.

Use a PT-2465 Exo-Terra Dial Thermometer or PT-2472 Digital Thermometer to monitor the temperature.

Substrate:

Aspen or beach chippings are recommended.

Décor:

Use a PT-2851 Reptile hide/Cave small for youngsters. PT-2845 or PT-2847 for adults. You will need a water bowl we would suggest using the Pool Wood Effect-Giant until the boa outgrows it then something like a bird bath or washing up bowl will be required. Finally use a selection of artificial vines and plants, PT-3000-3052 these are just for decoration and make the vivarium look more natural. We would recommend at least 2 large vines and a selection of 3-4 + plants.

Hog Island Boa (Boa constrictor imperator)

Hog island boas are only found on a few islands off the coast of Honduras.  It is believed that these boas are extinct in the wild.  Hog island boas are a smaller form of boa and rarely exceed five feet.  Hog island boas are long lived snakes and can live over 20 years

Temperature
Hog island boas should be maintained at 85-90 degrees during the day, with a hot spot under the heat light reaching 95 degrees.  Night-time temperatures need to range between 75-80 degrees.  Daily misting should be used to maintain humidity between 60-80 %.  Snakes shed in one complete piece; if yours is shedding in pieces the humidity is too low.  Another option to increase humidity is to provide a box with a small entrance, for the snake to enter, filled with damp potting soil and moss.

Housing
Hog island boas grow quickly and we recommend that you provide the largest cage possible.  One can expect an adult hog island boa to need a cage at least 4 feet long by 2 feet wide. 

Bedding
our recommendation for bedding is bark or coconut bark, this bedding holds moisture very well and duplicates their natural environment. 

Food
Hog island boas feed on fuzzy or small adult mice as babies and juveniles.  As your snake grows it will soon move up to rats.  We recommend that you feed baby and juvenile hog island boas 1-2 times per week.  Hog island boas can be fed once every 7-10 days to maintain proper body weight.  Like most snakes, hog island boas typically will not eat when they are preparing to shed.  After your snake has shed you can return to your normal feeding regime. 

Cleaning and Handling
The terrarium should be cleaned as necessary. Any faecal matter should be cleaned out several times a week. The bedding should be completely changed once a month and fresh clean water should be provided at all times.  The inside of the terrarium can be cleaned out with an appropriate reptile cage cleaner, we recommend Natural Chemistry’s Healthy Habitat.  Hog Island boas can be handled on a daily basis and always wash your hands before and after handling them