The decline in numbers of farm ponds has left the threatened great crested newt with fewer places to breed and struggling to survive in Scotland.
Now Scottish Natural Heritage is calling on individuals to help out, through the simple act of helping to build a pond in their garden or community.

The great-crested newt, also called the warty newt due to the lumps on its skin, is the largest of Britain’s three newt species and is dark in colour, with a vivid orange belly covered in black spots. The handsome creature has been put on SNH’s Species Action List, as needing conservation action.

In the most recent survey, the newts were discovered in just 100 ponds across Scotland. Although they live most of their life on land, preferring rough grassland and woodland, they need ponds in which to breed. Before the advent of tractors and taps, farms used to be covered in ponds to provide water for animals, but today there is a shortage of places for the great crested newt to breed.

Researchers discovered a legless lizard and a tiny woodpecker along with 12 other suspected new species in Brazil’s Cerrado, one of the world’s 34 biodiversity conservation hotspots. The Cerrado’s wooded grassland once covered an area half the size of Europe, but is now being converted to cropland and ranch land at twice the rate of the neighbouring Amazon rainforest, resulting in the loss of native vegetation and unique species.

An expedition comprising scientists from Conservation International (CI) and Brazilian universities found 14 species believed new to science — eight fish, three reptiles, one amphibian, one mammal, and one bird — in and around the Serra Gerald do Tocantins Ecological Station, a 716,000-hectare (1,769,274-acre) protected area that is the Cerrado’s second largest.

The lizard, of the Brachia genus, resembles a snake due to its lack of legs and pointed snout, which help it move across the predominantly sandy soil formed by the natural erosion of the escarpments of the Serra Gerald. Other suspected new species include a dwarf woodpecker (genus Picumnus) and horned toad (genus Proceratophrys). “It’s very exciting to find new species and data on the richness, abundance, and distribution of wildlife in one of the most extensive, complex, and unknown regions of the Cerrado,” said CI biologist Cristiano Nogueira, the expedition leader. “Protected areas such as the Ecological Station are home to some of the last remaining healthy ecosystems in a region increasingly threatened by urban growth and mechanized agriculture.”

The team also recorded several threatened species such as the hyacinth macaw, marsh deer, three-banded armadillo (tatu-bola), the Brazilian merganser, and the dwarf tinamou among more than 440 species of vertebrates documented during the 29-day field expedition. Comprising 21 percent of Brazil, the Cerrado is the most extensive woodland-savannah in South America. Large mammals such as the giant anteater, giant armadillo, jaguar and maned wolf struggle to survive in the fast-changing habitat also know as Brazil’s breadbasket.

The expedition included 26 researchers from the University of São Paulo and its Museum of Zoology; the federal universities of São Carlos and Tocantins; and CI-Brazil. It was funded by the O Boticário Foundation for Conservation of Nature, with the support of the NGO Pequi–Pesquisa e Conservação do Cerrado (Research & Conservation of the Cerrado).

Lutembe, a 30-year-old giant python that was rescued from Lutembe Beach Hotel last year, has become the proud mother of 40 babies. For Julius Abigaba, a reptile keeper at the Uganda Wildlife Education Centre, formerly known as Entebbe Zoo, the last two weeks were the most exciting of his life.

“It is the first time snakes are breeding at this centre,” he said. “This is an achievement that gives us pride.” Abigaba has been watching over the python as it was incubating a cluster of eggs slightly bigger than the size of chicken. After they lay their eggs, females will typically incubate them until they hatch. This is achieved by causing the muscles to “shiver“, which raises the temperature of the body. During the incubation period, females will not eat and only leave to bask in order to raise their body temperature.

Lutembe spent the early hours of yesterday in the sun in her reptile house, which she shares with two other pythons, occasionally checking on her young ones. Her skin has started peeling off, exposing a new beautiful one. “She coils around the baby pythons most of the time,” said Abigaba. “She is so protective. When caregivers go in to clean the reptile house, she hisses to scare them away.”

Previously, Lutembe was living a miserable life inside a metallic cage at Lutembe Beach Hotel. Tourists used to pay sh500 to her captors. They would poke her with a metallic rod for her to turn, as part of the entertainment. “We intervened and rescued her, but she had broken some bones in the head,” Abigaba explained. “This was discovered after an X-ray. She was treated and has now healed.”

The centre keeps snakes and other wild animals for conservation purposes. The young ones will be relocated to a national park, according to Abigaba. “The number is too big for us to handle and wild animals belong to the wilderness.“

ValueAquatics only offer Quality Genuine Stowasis products not cheap alternatives.

The Stowasis new style Stainless Steel blades are made from the highest quality brushed steel and come in 300mm to 1500mm blades and in both bottom and rear entry. The water enters into a box shaped chamber which fills up through a system of baffles then flows over the blade creating an impressive falling sheet of water.

The Stowasis stainless steel blades make a stunning waterfall that can be used both indoors and out creating the natural sound of a falling sheet of water.

The blades should be placed on or into a wall with the water cascading over the blades edge as a pure sheet of water.

You can also get a light kit for the individual Stowasis blades that put the finishing touch to the water fall.

We have in stock some of the older versions of the blades made to the same high standards in 300 to 1500mm.
Stowasis also do a plastic cheaper alternative.
The blades do not include pump or fittings all of which ValueAquatics can supply.

Jacqui

www.ValueAquatics.co.uk

Vivarium: Exo Terra PT2614 Glass Terrarium 90×45x60cm 36×18x24 inch (WxDxH).

 Or Vivarium AX36 (L915mm x D406mm x H1216mm.

Lighting: Lights for viewing only for PT-2614 Compact Fluorescent Terrarium Canopy PT-2227 and one bulb PT-2190 Repto Glo 2.0 Compact and one PT-2124 Night Glo Moonlight lamp for night time viewing.

For the AX36 two Arcadia ADH lamp holders & one PT-2104 Neodymium bulb 40w and one PT-2124 Night Glo Lamp for day and night time viewing.

Heating: PT-2047 Ceramic Heat Emitter 150watt & PT-2054 Glow light reflector for the terrarium.

For the AX36: PT-2047 Ceramic Heat Emitter 150watt and ceramic guard.

Pulse proportional Thermostat.

Substrate: Orchid bark or Moss

Décor: PT-2804 X-large water Dish, PT-3040 – PT3052 mix of 4-6+ plants, Vines 4 PT-3082 they need plenty of vines and branches to climb. Bark Cave large.

CARE

Distribution:
Boiga cyanea has a very large distribution; it can be found from Northern India all the way to China where it can be found in Kambodscha, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and in parts of the Malay Peninsula.
Habitat:
Boiga cyanea occurs in many different habitats found both at sea level and all the way up into the highlands up to 2100m. It is almost completely arboreal and can be found in small low shrubs, as well as the much taller trees. They are frequently found in close proximity to water and often in or around planted fields. Their coloration gives them excellent camouflage making them very difficult to find. These beautiful snakes are nocturnal hunters and spend most of the daylight hours curled up in a tree hole or entwined on branches or in the forks of tree branches. When active at night they are extremely fast and eagerly hunt down small lizards, small birds and possible small rodents.
Description:
Boiga cyanea reaches 90-150cm when adult, though specimens of 2m are not unknown. Its adult coloration is a beautiful green with a bluish cast to it. The belly is white to a light yellow. The eyes are a blue turquoise with catlike elliptical (vertical) pupils. Hence the common name of “Green Headed Blue Eyed Catsnake”. Juveniles are totally different the body from the neck to the tail is red-brown, the head is emerald green, the lips edged yellow, and the inside of the mouth is black. The eyes are large and seem to stick out at the side of the head and the brightest blue. It takes them from 8-14 months to go from the juvenile colouring to the adult going through greyish-red body coloration.
Venom:
The poison of Boiga cyanea resembles that of other Boigas, though it is usually much weaker than say that of the better known Boiga dendrophila. A bite from Boiga cyanea is normally of no problem to adult humans and is no worse then a bee or wasp sting. It can be dangerous if the person bitten has an allergic reaction to the bite. Boiga cyanea has very small teeth that are right in the back of the throat that you would not normally come into contact with.
Husbandry:
Boiga cyanea does best in as natural as possible vivarium. This should have plenty of branches for climbing with some hiding places; I find two or three tennis balls with a 2″ hole placed around the vivarium works well. They require a temperature of 26-32°C with a nightly drop to 22-24°C. In their natural habitat they are used to a reasonably high humidity so the Vivarium should be in the 60-90% humidity. I have found that this Boiga loves being sprayed with lukewarm water at night when they are active and will drink the water droplets from the walls or plants in the vivarium. I always keep a bowl of water on a small spider heat mat sealed in a plastic bag, which keeps the humidity high. I have also noticed the Boiga bathing and drinking from this bowl.
Feeding:
Boiga cyanea naturally feed on frogs, toads, smaller rodents and also on small birds. In the vivarium it is easier to feed them on small mice. Hatchlings will take pinkie mice though they may have to be assisted by teasing them with the pinkies and making them snap at them. I have had little problem in getting them to feed, though I have found it better to feed in the evenings by hiding the defrost mouse in the branches for them to hunt. With difficult feeders I have found that scenting with a lizard or chick helps, you can also scent with chicken broth or stock.  
Breeding:
A male and female of as near the same size is required, as they are known to be cannibalistic. Also a laying box of moist peat vermiculite or moss is needed for the female to lay her eggs. Eggs are laid approximately 42-50 days after mating and lay 7-14 eggs. The eggs measure 40mm x 25mm when laid. The eggs hatch out in approximately 85 days at 28°C.

Some people have had low hatch rates when the young have not managed to break out of the eggs. The reason for this is that they have been feeding their Boiga on mice and the egg shells have been too thick for the young to be able to break out. Feeding mostly chick bits I have had high hatch rates of 80% +.
Characteristics:
I have found these snakes to be very calm animals though I have had mine since they were hatchlings. I have also heard that they can be very aggressive snakes and will go into attack mode at the drop of a hat. I free handle my snakes as they are so calm and have never shown any aggressiveness even when I have lifted them out of the vivarium and did not notice the milky eyes as they were getting ready to shed.

John Gamesby

www.ValueAquatics.co.uk

Housing

Use a AX36 (for a sub adult to adult) Vivarium these come in Beech, Oak and Walnut. The extra height is required as this snake is mostly arboreal and needs lots of climbing branches and vines. As this vivarium needs to handle high humidity it is best to coat the inside with two or three coats of yacht varnish. When it is dry and no longer smells of varnish seal the inside joints with aquarium silicon sealant.

Lighting

Is for viewing so a PT-2110 Sun Glo Neodymium Lamp A19/60Watt. Spot lamp Guard. The bulb needs a ceramic lamp holder such as the Komodo Ceramic Fitting.

Heating

PT-2047 Ceramic Heat Emitter Heat Wave Lamp 150W or PT-2144 Heat Glo Infra Red Lamp R20/100W (Include a guard for the heat emitter or lamp), combine this with Habistat Pulse Proportional Thermostat set for 78 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a PT-2465 Exo-Terra Dial Thermometer or a PT-2472 We recommend two thermometers PT-2465 place one at each end to show the cool temperature and hot end temperatures to indicate that there is a heat gradient. effect.

Substrate

Aspen or beach chippings are recommended.

Décor

A water bowl will be required a Bark effect Water Bowl medium would be a good choice, use lots of plastic plants PT-3000-PT-3052 branches these will add to the décor and prevent the snake from becoming stressed, A few vines PT-3081-3082 will also help. Finally add three or four good stout branches making sure they are well fixed and cannot fall.

Green Tree Pythons are nocturnal (active at night) and arboreal (tree dwelling), a real gem of the rainforest. This utmost stunning species of snake is very popular among reptile hobbyists. As the name suggests, it is predominantly in green colour. Although some snakes may be yellow or blue with flecks of black, white and yellow colour. Babies are red or yellow with black and white flecks.
There geographical location range from New Guinea, Papua, Iran, Java and reaching as far as the Cape York Peninsula of Australia. With the progress of reptile industry, keeping of this snake is becoming more popular. Somewhat due to skin trade, folk medicine and hunting for food.
Behaviour
Green Tree Python is an arboreal snake with developed prehensile (grasping) tail which helps in movement amongst the branches. The prehensile tail, tight coil and colour of this snake are adaptations which help for life in the treetops. They spend most of the time coiled around branches with head in middle of the coil. This is its normal resting position.
These snakes have thermo-sensory pits along their lips which helps them to notice transformation in temperature. For example, if a warm blooded animal reaches within the range the python can notice the change in the temperature and same if a cold blooded animal reaches within the range. Evidences show that they sleep during the day and ground forage at night.
Variations
The Green Tree Python resembles a lot with a South American emerald tree boa (Corallus caninus). They are found in same ecological environment in their respective countries. Only thing that distinguishes the two is that the tree boas have elongated snout, bigger heads and the appearance of the head is flatter.
The python has a more compact and sculpted head. Unlike the broken line vertebral stripe of the python, the boa has ladder like vertebral markings. This could be an example of convergence between two different species in similar habitats, but remote. Distinctively it is considered to be relatives of amethystine python.
Feeding
Green Tree Python is carnivorous in food habits as are other snakes. In wild they mostly feed on warm blooded animals like birds, lizards and small rodents (rabbits, mice), but in captivity are offered baby chicks and small rats. It is recommended that the item of food should not be larger than the girth of the snake. The girth denotes the widest part of the snake, that is, the middle part of the body.
Hatchling Green Tree Python should be given pinkie mice. They should be fed with appropriate size of one or two food items once a week. As they grow their food size should increase but not the quantity. As an adult, they should be offered larger rat or mouse, but their food intake can be gradually decreased to once every two or three weeks.
Breeding
The female Green Tree Python breeds once a year and is oviparous, or egg-laying. The breeding season is August to December and the eggs are laid in late November to February. The female needs a nesting box for laying eggs, for this she uses either the hole in a tree or amongst tree roots on the ground.
The clutch size is between15-20 eggs, and the leathery-shelled eggs are incubated for about 39 to 65 days, depending on the temperature. The female python coils around the eggs and shivers to raise the temperature of the eggs as well as her body. Newly hatched pythons are typically lemon yellow, but sometimes are brick-red or blue. Hatchlings do not develop the adult green colouring for six to eight months.
Housing
While keeping this snake as a pet, you should construct the vivarium with more natural surroundings. This is aesthetically pleasing as well as it adds to the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its habitat, it will show better feeding response and grows quicker.
A vivarium of 90cm length x 60cm width x 60com height is ample for an adult Green Tree Python. A large housing with natural products and branches stops the snake from becoming overweight and lethargic, other to it, enhances the quality life of the reptile. The resistance power against any viral infections is more developed and helps encounter any late life problems.
Heating and Lighting
Green tree pythons require consistently high daytime temperatures and reasonably warm night-time temperatures if expected to thrive. The ambient temperature within the enclosure should be in the upper 80´s during the day with a localized basking area that approaches (but should not exceed) 90 degrees. In the evenings, temperatures may safely drop as low as 75 degrees with no ill effects, although a few degrees warmer is recommended for younger animals.
Heat can be provided in a number of ways, however, as arboreal snakes that spend little time on the ground, under tank heating pads may be less effective with Chondros than with other species of snake. Instead, ceramic heat emitters, infra-red heat bulbs, and standard basking bulbs are highly recommended primary heat sources. A new development in herp keeping, the radiant heat panel, is also an acceptable alternative, but these devices should always be used in conjunction with a trustworthy thermostat.
Temperature should be monitored regularly with the use of at least 2 high quality thermometers. Ideally, there should be a thermometer placed on both the warmest and coolest ends of the enclosure. This will ensure that the snake has a safe range of temperatures available to it without the risk of overheating or chilling.
While Chondros do not seem to require full spectrum lighting at the level of some basking lizards and turtles, they do benefit from a regular photo-period of 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. A standard fluorescent bulb will suffice however there is some merit to the idea of using low output full spectrum bulbs with these snakes. As mentioned above, UV light is not mandatory, but it may have positive psychological and behavioural effects on the animals over time.
Substrate and Furnishings
The substrate used for green tree pythons should be one that promotes healthy humidity levels, yet is resistant to mould and fungus. Commercially available reptile bark (orchid bark) is a popular choice, as are coconut husk products.
Chondros are arboreal snakes that spend most of their time coiled among horizontal branches. A variety of branches and sticks of varying diameter should be used to furnish the enclosure. Perches should be arranged in such a way to offer the snakes multiple basking options, both high and low, and both near to and far from the heat source.
The inclusion of live or plastic plants helps to maintain a natural setting for your snakes, but additionally provides security for the animals and serves as natural places for water droplets to collect after the terrarium has been misted.
Patches of sphagnum moss are highly recommended, as it will not only act to beautify the enclosure, but will function like a sponge when it gets wet, and slowly release water during the day, subsequently raising the humidity within the cage.
Water and Humidity
Water should always be made available to green tree pythons via a large, sturdy water dish. These pythons will typically drink from the water droplets that form on their coils and perches after being sprayed. However, the addition of a water bowl ensures that the animals always have access to water, and additionally, said bowl will aid in maintaining adequate humidity levels.
In the wild, Chondros live in lush tropical forests, where rain is frequent and humidity levels high. To reproduce this environment in the terrarium, regular misting of the entire contents of the enclosure with room temperature water is necessary.
The watering schedule will vary based on the type of enclosure, ambient humidity where you live, and the substrates used. Until you determine the regimen that works for your specific set-up, consider a twice a day schedule and modify it as needed.
Enough water should be sprayed that the enclosure walls, substrate, perches, and the snake itself have droplets on them. The cage contents should never become soggy, and if that becomes the case, consider spraying less often. Optimally, the substrate should be nearly dry before it is sprayed again.
The skin shedding process is a simple and effective way to gauge whether you have the humidity levels properly adjusted. If your python sheds effortlessly, and the skin comes off in a single piece, then you are doing well. However, if the snake’s skin seems to be flaking off in tiny pieces over the course of several days, you will need to increase humidity levels with more frequent misting and/or a larger water dish.

To house a single/pair of adults we would recommend a Vivarium such as the Viv EX55 55×23x24”, for a single Bearded Dragon we would recommend a 48”x18”x20 Viv Exotic VX48 as an absolute minimum.

Lighting

For the VX48 & EX55. PT-2054 reflector and Guard  the UV Bulb PT-2189 Repto Glo compact new 26watt,
The UV tube should be no more than 10” above your Bearded Dragon, you can place a branch under the UV where it can climb onto to reach the UVA-B rays. Change the bulb year as the light quality breaks down dramatically, reducing the benefit to your Bearded Dragon.

Heating
Use a PT-2138 Sun Glo Tight beam Basking spot lamp S20/100Watt. This gives the Bearded Dragon a hot spot that it requires so that it can digest its food.
Use a PT2054 Glo Light 21 cm. The Exo Terra Glow Light gives you the versatility of placing heat and/or light sources in your Vivarium where needed.
You will need a Dimming thermostat. Use the thermostat for the heating/basking lamp PT2138. This should be put on a timer or only turned on during daylight hours 10-12, hours a day.
(If the room is cold at night less than 35f) Use a Royce Heat Mat 22×12” for either of the Vivariums. Place under the basking area and leave running 24/7. This gives some background heating for the night time. I would put the heat mat on a thermostat as well as an insurance against overheating.

Option 2 Lighting/Heating

Mercury vapour lamp Exo Terra solar Glo then use with PT2056 Glow Light 10” clamp lamp and a guard. With this you do not need a thermostat. To adjust the temperature raise or lower the lamp above the basking spot.

Substrate

For baby dragons we recommend wallpaper, backing paper or newspaper for the first year. As they can get compaction of the gut by ingesting substrates, like Calci sand, sand, peat, corn cob, beach chips etc.

After a year old the best substrates are peat and playpen sand 1:1, Calci sand, beach chippings.

Décor

Use a PT-2803 Exo Terra Water Dish Large for adults and a PT-2802 Exo Terra Water Dish Medium for younger Dragons. Most Dragons do not drink from a bowl and should be sprayed twice a day, but a few do so a water bowl is recommended and should be used and the water changed daily. The water bowl should be kept at the cool end to avoid excessive humidity
Use a PT-2813 Exo Terra Feeding Dish X Large for adults and a PT-2811 Exo Terra Feeding Dish Medium for Youngsters. Use the bowl to feed their greens and vegetables.
Use a large piece of Cork bark tube of a PT-2852 hide cave for a baby dragon to sleep in. Make sure it is large enough for them.
Branches (Bog wood etc.)Branches need to be strong and sturdy. Fruit tree branches are good but not cherry as it is poisonous as are conifer branches. Scrub them clean with hot soapy water, rinse and allow to dry. Bog wood and drift wood are good.
Large basking rocks. A large piece of sandstone placed under the basking spot light is a good addition. This holds the heat and helps them to digest the food properly. Place a thermometer on the rock or branch that is to be used for basking and adjust the thermostat until it reads about 90°-100°Fahrenheit.
Artificial plants. PT-3000-3052 these are just for decoration and make the vivarium look more natural. I would say three plastic plants and a vine PT-3082

Vitamins T-268 Tetra Fauna Reptocal or Nutrobal + a Calcium powder. Many reptiles require a diet based on live or fresh foods, due to their specific feeding habits. These are readily available, but in themselves do not offer a balanced supply of nutrients. To ensure your pet receives a properly balanced diet, it is important to increase the nutrient content of these foods with a nutrient supplement.   

CARE

Bearded dragons originate from Australia; as juveniles they are semi-arboreal. As adults, they are more terrestrial, but will climb to bask and search for prey. Bearded Dragons can occupy a large range of habitats from the desert to dry forest and scrubland.

Dragons are not either the smallest or the largest of the lizard family and are known to grow on average 18-24 inches from nose to tail.

Bearded dragons are amongst the tamest of all lizards, and their outgoing personalities, activity level, appetites and interesting social behaviours make them a very captivating lizard to observe. They have a very rapid growth rate, so the 4″ hatchlings can grow to their adult size within a year.

Most bearded dragons adapt easily to handling and are calm enough to perch on their owner’s shoulder, or be placed on a countertop, or enjoy the view from a windowsill.

Housing

The minimum size vivarium for up to 2 adult dragons should be 48″ x 24″ x 24″ but I would recommend something bigger. A basking site should be provided under the hot spot and include UV lighting. Bearded Dragons need to bask and they need high temperatures to help with the digestive process. A basking area should be about 100°Fahrenheit with an ambient temperature of 75°F and then dropping to about 65°F at night-time.

Bearded Dragons need to have UV running for 10-14 hours a day. In the wild they bask in the sun to help with the digestion and the production of vitamin D. Obviously in a Vivarium they will not receive that much UV so a UV source is essential. Bearded Dragons need a photoperiod (to tell the difference between night and day), to do this you need to have your UV bulb on for 10-14 hours. The UV must be within 10″ of the bearded Dragon to enable the dragon to get the full benefit of the UV tube. The UV source will need to be changed once a year as it loses its efficiency. A ceramic heat emitter or a spot Basking bulb and a Pulse Proportional thermostat for the ceramic or Dimming for the basking bulb, to control the temperature of the vivarium. A thermometer inside the vivarium is a good idea so that you can check they are being kept at the right temperature. Some people use 2 thermometers, one at the cooler end and one at the hotter end to monitor the temperature range. If you use only one thermometer then place it in the middle of the tank towards the bottom.

A UV and Heat source that is becoming more popular is the Mercury vapour lamps like the Exo Terra Sun Glo. These bulbs do not work with a thermostat so to get the correct basking temperature you simply raise or lower the lamp.

A substrate is known as the material to line the bottom of the tank and these can range from newspaper, bark, and sand for reptiles.

Feeding

Their stomachs are large enough to accommodate large quantities of food. Young Bearded Dragons do not eat as much vegetation as their adult counterparts. As a Bearded Dragon ages it may be persuaded to eat less animal matter and more plants, maybe levelling off at around an 80% plant and 20% insect diet.

Popular feeder insects include crickets, cockroaches, locusts, silkworms, and Locusts. The mealworms have a fairly hard chitin (exoskeleton) and is generally low in the “meat to chitin” ratio, as well as having a poor calcium/phosphorus ratio, making it far less nutritious than other feeder insects. Chitin is hard enough that large amounts of it can cause impaction in the Bearded Dragons digestion system, and can lead to death, especially in younger and smaller animals. But as given As A treat are not a problem Waxworms and Morio worms can be given as a treat also, but sparingly as in most cases as they are extremely fatty, and in some cases very addictive. Although they can be useful in building-up an undernourished individual. The rule of thumb on feeder insects is that the food fed to the animal must not be larger than the space between the eyes; feeding something larger could make it hard for the animal to swallow the food and can lead to the aforementioned fatal impaction.

A significant portion of the Bearded Dragons diet may consist of leafy greens. Dragons enjoy many types of readily available greens, including Water cress, Kale, spring greens (occasionally), escarole, dandelion greens, & flowers, parsley, and carrot tops. It is also recommended that this portion of the dragon’s diet be supplemented with a variety of finely diced fruits and vegetables. Feeding a mixture of these plants ensures a wider variety of nutrients, and variations in texture to aid digestion.

Calcium should be added (a light sprinkling) to the food every day and added vitamins every two or three days. This is to boost the calcium for good bones and to add to top up the missing vitamins that is lacking in their diet.

Light & Heat

Bearded Dragons bask most of the day, absorbing the heat they need to digest their food. It is important that there are at least one or two good basking spots in the Dragons habitat. Rocks are preferable to logs as they hold heat better, though logs can also provide stimulation for the animal as they will climb up and down it any item taken from the outside must first be boiled or baked, however, to remove contaminants. A habitat should also include something the Dragon can hide under.

Bearded Dragons also need correct lighting. A UVB light is needed, with two options being available, Fluorescent strip bulbs, bulbs or mercury vapour lamps. These bulbs have variable ranges of UVB output; owners must ensure proper distance from bulb to the basking spot so the lizard can properly absorb the rays. Bulbs are typically replaced every 6 months. Without adequate UVB the Dragon will develop Metabolic Bone Disease and not eat as much. A Dragon needs between 12 and 14 hours of daylight; much less or more causes problems with their circadian rhythms and makes them lethargic and sick.

For heating, Bearded Dragons need bright white light during the day. Some owners use a red Infra red light at night for heating; this provides heat and you will be able to see it. It is unknown if this red light is visible to bearded dragons. Another option for maintaining temperatures at night is a Ceramic heat emitter or heat mat.

Temperature is one of the most important health factors. A bearded dragon needs the correct temperature to digest, so a good thermometer is essential. Analogue, Round, stick-on, and other non-digital thermometers do not measure basking temperature properly as they do not measure the actual basking spot, just the temperature of the air or glass. A digital thermometer with a probe or a Dial thermometer. Temps need to be 40C-43C (105F-110F) [basking spot] during day and 15C-26C (60F-80F) at night (the higher end of this range for babies, the lower portion of the range for adult Dragons). If the dragons do not receive the proper heat they will become lethargic, and they will eat less. Eventually the lack of proper heating will become fatal.

Substrate

 This is another very important factor in keeping a healthy Dragon. Babies and juveniles are particularly at risk of impaction and are often kept on paper towels or newspaper, as they are easy to dispose of and clean up after, and there is no risk of the baby ingesting substrate. Tile is another popular choice, as is reptile carpet and also non adhesive shelf liner. As the Dragon gets older (about 8-12 months) it can be put on finely sifted playpen sand. Calcium sand is often used, but is also reported to be a cause of impaction due to ´clumping´ in the gut if ingested, while play sand will pass straight through a well fed individual. Rabbit food pellets, made of alfalfa also Bran are both recommended choices by most breeders as they are indigestible and also easy to clean. Walnut Shells should never be used; though they are natural they cannot be digested and are highly likely to cause impaction. Wood chips, and anything else of that sort are never to be used. They are large, with sharp edges, and can be swallowed. They are not digestible, however, and will swell and clog the gut, causing a very painful and potentially fatal impaction.

Also places for shade might be useful.

General Information

Natural sunlight is very beneficial and should be provided if possible. Bearded dragons should never be placed outside in a glass enclosure. The animal could easily overheat and die.

Bearded Dragons live for an average of 4-10 years depending on their quality of lives, if they have had good lighting and temperatures maintained as well as a good balanced diet then you could expect your dragon to live longer than a dragon that has not. But if you have a female that has been repeatedly bred then her life span can be expected to be quite short.

Bearded Dragons will keep you amused for a long time. Just observing and interacting with them is fascinating. There are 2 things that the Beardy does; one is to nod its head (which is a sign of dominance) and the other is the arm waving (this is a sign of submissive behaviour). When they sit with open mouths this is their way of cooling down their body temperature

It is not advisable to keep two males together as they will fight; more so if a female is present. If you would like to keep more than one Beardy then make sure that there is only one male in the cage.

Do not mix other reptiles with Bearded Dragons, as it is an accident/fatality waiting to happen.

Vivarium EX55 for an adult

Lighting: Arcadia Dry Controller ACR36 and PT-2155 Repti Glo 2 48” 40watt.

Heating: Komodo ceramic lamp fixture and PT-2048 Ceramic Heat Emitter, and guard with a Habistat Pulse Proportional Thermostat.

OR Microclimate AHS 500 instead of the above.

Substrate: Orchid Bark as a base and Moss on the top, enough to completely cover the snake.

Décor: Large hide and water Bowl that is large enough for the whole snake to submerge in and sturdy enough not to be tipped over. 

CARE

Common name(s): Blood Pythons, Red blood python, Malaysian blood python
Native to: Peninsular (Western) Malaysia, Sumatra east of the central dividing range of mountains, Bangka Island and other islands in the Strait of Malacca, including the Lingga islands, Riau islands, and Pinang.
Adult size: 5/7 feet

Eggs: average clutch 18-30 eggs.

Appearance: The Sumatra Blood Python gets its name from the blood red colour that washes over its skin. They are also dusted in light yellows and oranges and have thick bodies, perfect for constricting.

They are a snake of medium length with a very large girth relative to its length. The head is long and broad and distinctly wider than the neck. The anterior half of the body appears as pale with dark pattern, while the posterior appears as dark with pale pattern. There is a black post-ocular stripe and in some populations there are black lateral blotches on the sides. There is much variation of colour in individuals and in populations. The dark elements of the pattern may be red, orange-red, ox-blood, brown, tan or yellow. Blood pythons are without red coloration at hatching and appear as predominantly tan with black markings. Blood pythons attain their adult colours usually between to and three years of age. At three and four years of age the coloration of blood pythons is at its zenith.   
In the wild: The Sumatra Blood Python, in the wild, can be found in the vast rice fields and plains of Sumatra, Cambodia, Indonesia, Thailand, Malaysia, and Singapore. They are not rare animals and can be found frequently in the wild if you look in the right places. They are good hunters, feeding on mice and rats and rabbits and all number of small mammals in the rice fields and grasslands of Sumatra. However, the Pythons themselves are also hunted by people for their skin and meat.

Food: Most pythons and boas are fed once a week. Be warned that they might be picky eaters; some of them will only eat with the lights out and some of them have to “hunt” their prey first, although it is best to feed them killed, frozen prey to avoid injury or parasite infestation to your snake.

Ease of care: Average

Temperament: Sumatra Blood Pythons do have variable temperaments however; while some can be quite calm and docile, others are high-strung, nervous, and quick to bite.
Vivarium set up: At all ages, blood pythons require a secure well-ventilated cage. A wooden vivarium must be sealed with aquarium silicon sealant after painting the inside it three oats of Yacht varnish. A glass aquarium with a secure ventilated top (screen wire or perforated metal) can make a satisfactory cage for a young specimen. Plastic storage boxes, with numerous perforations for ventilation, also can be used to maintain blood pythons. Some of the commercially available PVC, polyethylene, ABS plastic or fibreglass cages probably best accommodate the large size and bulk of adult blood pythons. I would initially place hatchlings in a small enclosure with about 40 square inches of floor space; we have found that often, if placed in too large an enclosure, a hatchling may be insecure and fail to feed. Once regular feeding begins, this species will quickly require a larger space, and should then be moved to cages with 180 – 300 square inches of floor space. By two years of age, most blood pythons will require a cage with 6 -12 square feet of floor space. One of the most common mistakes made in keeping this python is to not provide a suitably large cage for the adults.

Substrate: I used to keep mine on Moss with orchid bark underneath.

Note: Sumatran Blood Pythons are large snakes – growing to an average of six feet long and topping off at around nine feet. Although they are not usually seen growing larger than seven feet, it is possible to obtain a larger size in captivity, so be warned. The Sumatra Blood Python is an awe-inspiring snake, one that will certainly capture the imaginations of you and your guests. If you are not an experienced snake keeper, you may want to try an easier, more predictable species at first; the Sumatra Blood Python is a very large and often aggressive snake that should only be kept by experienced hobbyists. You will want to raise this one from childhood. Capturing one or purchasing one that has lived in the wild is a bad idea, as the snakes may be excessively unhealthy or aggressive. If you get a baby, and raise it from birth, it will be more likely to become handleable and get used to you than one taken from the wild.

Vivarium: Exo Terra PT2614 Glass Terrarium 90×45x60cm 36×18x24 inch (WxDxH). Or Vivarium AX36 (L915mm x D406mm x H1216mm)

Lighting: Lights for viewing only for PT-2614 Compact Fluorescent Terrarium Canopy PT-2227 and one bulb PT-2190 Repto Glo 2.0 Compact and one PT-2124 Night Glo Moonlight lamp for night time viewing.

For the AX36 two Arcadia ADH lamp holders & one PT-2104 Neodymium bulb 40w and one PT-2124 Night Glo Lamp for day and night time viewing.

Heating: PT-2047 Ceramic Heat Emitter 150watt & PT-2054 Glow light reflector for the terrarium.

For the AX36: PT-2047 Ceramic Heat Emitter 150watt and ceramic guard.

Habistat Pulse proportional Thermostat.

Substrate: Orchid bark and/or Moss

Décor: PT-2804 X-large water Dish, PT-3040 – PT3052 mix of 4-6+ plants, Vines 4 PT-3082 they need plenty of vines and branches to climb. Bark Cave large

CARE
Sulawesi Black Mangrove Snake (Boiga dendophylum gemmicincta)

The information here is also good for the other Mangrove Snakes (Boiga dendophylum).

Location: Indonesia, Sulawesi Island is one of the four larger Sunda Islands of Indonesia it is situated between Borneo and the Maluka Islands.

As hatchlings they are black with orange bands that diminish with age.

This species of snake belongs to the genus Boiga. They are one of the largest cat snake species, averaging in lengths between six to eight feet. They are considered mildly venomous, though moderate envenomations resulting in intense swelling have been reported. There have been no severe cases of hospitalisation or fatalities that I know of
Habitat: The mangrove snake is found more often in lowland rainforest than Mangrove swamps, from which it is named.
Food: Feeds on small mammals, Birds, lizards, frogs, snakes and fish.

These snakes are nocturnal and prefer to hide during the day.
They are very aggressive snakes and should be handled with a grab stick or hook. If you prefer to handle your snakes then gloves should be used.
These snakes have a long strike range.
With a long strike distance, it can be quite a handful, handling a 200cm+ specimen. Some specimens are very docile, but it seems most of them are very aggressive all the time. They are more aggressive at night.

Venom:
The whole Boiga complex consist of rear fanged snakes and most are harmless unless you are allergic to the venom, recent studies have shown that some species have venom as toxic as the venom from the death adder (A. Antarticus).
Toxicity is different in each Boiga species. Boiga irregularis has been known to cause some severe envenomations and a few deaths among infants. Bites from Boiga dendrophila sp. have caused large swellings.
Though their means of delivery is very poor. Being rear fanged, they have enlarged teeth in the back of their mouth. In these there is a small groove which allows the venom to run from the venom glands and into their mouth and then have to be chewed into the prey.
So if you receive a fast grab/release bite you are not likely to suffer any consequences from the bite. Maybe a rash, local swelling and pain around the bite mark. But if you let the snake chew for a while you can suffer from quite a nasty envenomation. Effects can be headache, nausea, swelling, pain, discolouration of the surrounding tissue as well as necrosis (tissue death). Usually a pair of solid gloves should be worn and will keep the snake from biting you.

This being said, it is also important to point out that lots of people get bitten by various Boiga sp. every year and don’t feel any effect at all. Above symptoms are a worst case scenario.

Terrarium/Vivarium: Interior and Decoration:
The material of the cage is not that important. Only thing you must make sure is that it can resist the high humidity needed. Glass cages are good the largest Exo Terra terrariums are excellent and have no problems with water. But attaching branches can be a problem. It can be done by using a good solid background or arrange the branches so they don’t need to be fixed.
Unless you insulate the terrarium with a background like cork tiles, they let out a lot of the heat.
The wooden vivariums are easy to arrange. You can screw your branches and other decor to the sides and they are well insulated. But they don’t cope well with the high humidity.
Of course you can paint the inside  with a non toxic water-resistant paint or yacht varnish. Giving it 2-3 coats will do fine.

Tall cages with lots of branches and plenty of places to hide are to be preferred. I like to use jungle vines, imported from Asia, as they give a really cool look.
Make sure to create hiding places both high and low. Plants also look great and provide good cover for your snake as well as helping to keep the humidity up.
They help to keep a good environment in your cage. Plastic plants are good as they can take the wear and tear of the snake climbing over them. They are also easy to keep clean.
The size of the cage is of course determined by the size and species of your snake.
Boiga babies do best in smaller cages with lots of tight places to hide. Non transparent plastic boxes will do fine for housing neonates. Critter boxes or Fer-Plast cages are good but either paint the outside or stick coloured paper to the plastic as the clear plastic can cause stress.
For juvenile Boiga (50-80 cm) I would suggest no less than 40×40x80 cm (Long x Wide x High). I would prefer 60×60x100 cm. For adult species (120 cm+) I say no smaller than 60×60x120 cm for a single animal. For a large 200+ cm snake a larger cage will be necessary!!
NOTE be aware that most Boiga species are highly cannibalistic. Do not attempt putting a smaller specimen in the cage with a larger one. I would suggest keeping them separate and only introduce them to each other when trying to breed them.

Substrate: I use coconut fibre (Coir) because of the high humidity also Sphagnum moss is good.

Water: A water bowl that is large enough for the snake to lie in but not completely submerge is good and should be changed daily.
Spray the cage two or three times a day to give some added humidity, also most Mangroves will not drink from a bowl but drink the water droplets from their bodies and foliage when sprayed.

Humidity: should be 70-80%

Heating: It is best to use ceramic heaters (make sure to shield the bulb with a wire cage). Best for larger vivariums as they generate a lot of heat Always use with an appropriate pulse proportional thermostat.
Heat mats can be used on the smaller cages/vivariums placed under half the vivarium/cage. Also use with a thermostat which can be used with the Ceramic later on.

Aim for a temperature range of 78°F-85 ° F days time high, 75° -80°F. Do not go above 85°F otherwise they can stress out.

Wild Caught Animals & Quarantine:
Now dealing with WC Boiga is a lot more difficult, as they are usually full of internal parasites and very dehydrated when they are bought.
Parasites are best treated by a vet unless you know what you are doing and 10% Panacure (Fenbendazole) is used by tubing it directly into the stomach via a syringe and tube. They will probably need two doses a fortnight apart.
Flagellates can be treated with Flagyl (metronidazole) in the same way.
Dehydration I treat any wild caught snakes in the same way for dehydration. Take a large plastic storage box with a good fitting lid. Add half an inch of luke warm water and add half a can of sport aid drink one with re hydration salts and EDTA in them. Add the snake and replace the lid and tape it down so that the snake cannot push it off. Leave for half an hour then return the snake to its vivarium/cage. Repeat this daily until the snake is re-hydrated.
To tell if the snake is dehydrated pinch the skin and it should spring back immediately, the longer it takes the more dehydrated the snake is.
Dehydration is the biggest killer of imported Boigas.
Before getting the snake home, you should have prepared a quarantine area. It is important that you separate your WC Boiga from your already healthy collection to avoid spreading disease or parasites.
When the quarantine area is setup and you have got your Boiga(s) take a stool (faecal) sample and take it to the vet. Your vet should have the sample within 24 hours of the snakes “making it”. When you find it, put it in a little plastic container and into the fridge if you cannot go to the vet right away.
Ask him/her to analyse the sample looking for worms or parasites like flagellates.
Keep the animals in quarantine for at least 6 months. If your Boiga is being treated for something during the 3 months, keep it in quarantine until the treatment is over and another faecal sample has shown the snakes is fine.

 John Gamesby

Aquarium

36”x15”x12” ( L B H) smallest for 1 adult Turtle. Only needs 6”-8” water depth

Lighting

For Aquarium Arcadia control ACU18

Tube Arcadia D3 Reptile Lamp 24” 18Watt

OR

PT-2187 Repto Glo 5.0 Compact New 26Watt to give UVA/B for shell and bones.

PT-2054 Glow Lite 21cm clamp lamp and safety cover.

Heating

For the Aquarium a Rena smart heater/thermostat 150w
Substrate

Bare bottom or River/Aquatic sand not gravel.

Filter

Tetratec EX 700 External canister Filter.

Décor

Zoo med Turtle dock, Log Cave bark effect Medium and or long Cave Bark effect Medium.

Two thermometers one aquatic for the water and one for the air temp PT-2472 digital thermometer will do for both. To check the water temp leave the probe in the water to check the air temp just lift it up out of the water

CARE

The Genus Cyclemys (Asian Leaf Turtles)

This care sheet is intended only to cover the general care of this species. Further research to best develop a maintenance / reproduction plan for whichever species you are caring for is essential.

Presently the genus Cyclemys is split into 4 species. It is almost certain that this will be further split as further research is done on this wide-ranging genus. Much like the map turtles ( Graptemys ) of the American Midwest and South, there are distinct differences between populations found in different river drainages. Though Cyclemys species are often called Asian leaf turtles, this often leads to some confusion with other chelonians that have the word “leaf” in their common name such as the Black-breasted or Vietnamese leaf turtle ( Geomyda spengleri ) as well as the Vietnam leaf turtle ( Annamemys annamensis ).

At the present time this species is a frequent import in the pet trade. This may change though because of its presence in the Asian food markets. The availability of Leaf turtles as wild caught specimens is certain to decline in the coming years unless rapid changes are made in the culinary and traditional medicine practices of that part of the world. For more information on this please see the ”Animal Markets of China” hosted by the World Chelonian Trust at www.chelonia.org .  Luckily at the present time Cyclemys dentata is being captive bred with some frequency and the other species are sure to follow as breeders focus more on this Genus.

Cyclemys have a rounded carapace (hence the Generic name which means “Circle turtle”) and grow to about 25 cm (10 inches) in length. The base colour is usually a variation of brown with the plastron and sometimes the carapace showing radiating lines on each scute. Cyclemys possess a distinct vertebral keel and a serrated rear carapacial margin. This is much more pronounced in the young and may offer some protection against predators such as frogs or fish that may opportunistically attempt to swallow the spiky shelled hatchlings. Large adults develop a transverse plastral hinge, which, in the case of females, may allow for easier egg passage during ovipositioning.

Young Cyclemys are fairly aquatic and can be kept much like any other basking turtle.  They do appear to become more terrestrial as they age with adults spending much of their time on land. In the wild, Cyclemys are found in or near ponds, small rivers, and slow moving streams. They are not strong swimmers preferring instead to walk on the bottom of a body of water rather than swimming freely. It is stated that adults spend their nights on land and move to water during the day.

Thanks to the success that breeders are having with the species (at least Cyclemys dentata) it is now possible to purchase hatchlings from captive born stock.  Such specimens are much more desirable as pets as they are much healthier and well acclimated to captivity.

HOUSING LEAF TURTLES INDOORS – The most useful form of indoor accommodation for hatchling Cyclemys consists of an aquarium. For hatchlings we suggest a water depth of 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) with one end built up with rocks to provide a dry basking spot or a Turtle dock. A reasonable sized aquarium for a hatchling is a 20 gallon: 30 inches by 12 inches, (75cm by 30cm). As the animal grows the size of this habitat should be increased.

Water quality is very important. Many problems with Leaf turtles can be averted if one spends a little time and money designing and purchasing an adequate filtration system for your pets. Hatchlings are sometimes difficult to provide good filtration for because of the depth of the water.  For these a submersible foam filter or an external power filter and frequent water changes is the rule.

In one corner of the environment a reflector clip light lamp should be positioned over the dry basking area to provide artificial basking facilities. This should be positioned to provide a focal basking spot of 90°F or so (32°C) in that section of the habitat.  The habitat should also be equipped with a full spectrum fluorescent light to provide for UVB. A UVB source is necessary for Vitamin D3 synthesis (necessary for calcium metabolism ). If preferred to this lighting arrangement a Mercury vapour bulb may be used that fulfils both heat and UV requirements. Live or plastic aquatic plants are suggested to provide a sense of security and hiding places.

For adults an environment that is at least 50% land is recommended. The water should be at a depth that the animal may easily reach the surface while standing on the bottom.

DIET: This Genus is a true omnivore; the diet in the wild consists of figs, fruits, carrion, fish, and crustaceans. In captivity this should be duplicated as closely as possible.   Be careful not to overfeed your Cyclemys as obesity is a common problem.  Feeding 2 to 3 times a week for adult turtles and small amounts every day to every other day for rapidly growing hatchlings is appropriate.  Leaf turtles will readily accept many of the commercially prepared turtle diets that exist on the market today.

The diet offered should consist of:

Commercially prepared freshwater turtle diet

Fruits (figs and soft fruits)

Insects

Worms

Fish

Additional calcium supplementation is necessary if the commercially prepared nutritionally complete diets do not make up a large portion of the diet. Powdered calcium with vitamin D3 can be sprinkled all foods. Provision of a cuttlefish bone, which can be gnawed if desired, is also recommended.

MEDICAL: Newly imported Cyclemys often need immediate medical care. This species is often exposed to a number of pathogens in the Asian markets and thus needs prompt medical attention.  Septicaemia and protozoan infections are the norm for newly imported animals.

As dosage information available on the Internet or in hobbyist books is often dated and potentially dangerous, please work closely with your veterinarian to care for your animals.

It should be noted that turtle and tortoise care research is ongoing. As new information becomes available we share this on the World Chelonian Trust web site at www.chelonia.org . Serious keepers find it to be a benefit to have the support of others who keep these species. Care is discussed in our free online email community, which may be joined from the web address above. Please contact us about the many benefits of becoming a member of the World Chelonian Trust.